Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

Dry chain degreaser and DI2 cleaning

Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

Dry chain degreaser and DI2 cleaning

Old 01-28-19, 02:55 PM
  #1  
hythamfekry
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 163
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 76 Post(s)
Dry chain degreaser and DI2 cleaning

hi ,
1) I plan to buy a dry chain degreaser spray , i wonder if it's power full enough like the normal liquid chain degreaser .
2) in muc-off dry degreaser product description , it mention that i can use it to clean mechs , is it suitable for di2 or do i have to buy additional product like "E-Shift finish line cleaner" ,,,
3) After cleaning DI2 mech , should i use dry lube on pivot points and jockey wheel center ? ..
I'm not sure if it's better to clean and use dry lube on di2 mech or just have cleaning them externally ..
I live in mostly dry condition most of the year , little damp in winter ..
hythamfekry is offline  
Old 01-28-19, 03:56 PM
  #2  
davidad
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 5,705
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 270 Post(s)
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/chain-care.html
davidad is offline  
Old 01-28-19, 03:57 PM
  #3  
wgscott
VectorPotential sensitive
 
wgscott's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: The Timbers of Fennario (CL77)
Posts: 4,362

Bikes: Steel

Mentioned: 59 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2300 Post(s)
Sheldon Brown predated Di2.

Consider using wax. I do that, and never have to clean anything on the derailleur. In almost 5 years, I have never needed to lubricate it.
wgscott is offline  
Old 01-28-19, 04:33 PM
  #4  
hythamfekry
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 163
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 76 Post(s)
Originally Posted by wgscott View Post
Sheldon Brown predated Di2.

Consider using wax. I do that, and never have to clean anything on the derailleur. In almost 5 years, I have never needed to lubricate it.
you mean something like finish line ceramic wax ?
hythamfekry is offline  
Old 01-28-19, 04:34 PM
  #5  
hythamfekry
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 163
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 76 Post(s)
thanks for the link
hythamfekry is offline  
Old 01-28-19, 04:55 PM
  #6  
AnkleWork
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Llano Estacado
Posts: 3,206

Bikes: old clunker

Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 488 Post(s)
Originally Posted by hythamfekry View Post
hi ,
1) I plan to buy a dry chain degreaser spray , i wonder if it's power full enough like the normal liquid chain degreaser .
2) in muc-off dry degreaser product description , it mention that i can use it to clean mechs , is it suitable for di2 or do i have to buy additional product like "E-Shift finish line cleaner" ,,,
3) After cleaning DI2 mech , should i use dry lube on pivot points and jockey wheel center ? ..
I'm not sure if it's better to clean and use dry lube on di2 mech or just have cleaning them externally ..
I live in mostly dry condition most of the year , little damp in winter ..
It's just hydrocarbon solvent. Is Di2 hydrocarbon solvent-proof? Charcoal lighter fluid is the same thing and much, much cheaper.

BTW, does all that stuff need to be degreased?
AnkleWork is offline  
Old 01-28-19, 05:01 PM
  #7  
hythamfekry
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 163
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 76 Post(s)
Originally Posted by AnkleWork View Post
It's just hydrocarbon solvent. Is Di2 hydrocarbon solvent-proof? Charcoal lighter fluid is the same thing and much, much cheaper.

BTW, does all that stuff need to be degreased?
just passed some very short distance of a road that had some floating water, it turned out that water is salty , after dry cleaning , some salt trace are still there , don't want that to cause any corrosion or damage to the mech
hythamfekry is offline  
Old 01-28-19, 05:07 PM
  #8  
AnkleWork
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Llano Estacado
Posts: 3,206

Bikes: old clunker

Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 488 Post(s)
Originally Posted by hythamfekry View Post
just passed some very short distance of a road that had some floating water, it turned out that water is salty , after dry cleaning , some salt trace are still there , don't want that to cause any corrosion or damage to the mech
Just FYI: road salt has low solubility in hydrocarbon solvents.
AnkleWork is offline  
Old 01-28-19, 06:01 PM
  #9  
rm -rf
don't try this at home.
 
rm -rf's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: N. KY
Posts: 5,020
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 599 Post(s)
For road salt: I use a large garden sprinkling can of water, and flow water over the drivetrain and parts of the frame that got any road splashes. Then blot some of the water off, and let it dry indoors.

For Di2:
wipe off pivots with a paper towel, then lube with chain lube, and wipe off excess. (Shimano doesn't mention any lube maintenance methods for their Di2 derailleurs.)
I never lube jockey wheels, unless I remove them from the derailleur arm, disassemble and regrease. That's very rare.

For chains: I used to remove the chain at the quick link, shake in a plastic bottle with paint thinner, then shake with dish detergent and water, then rinse and dry. Nice and clean, and I got around 4000 miles per chain.
But now, I just wipe off the chain with paper towels and rubbing alcohol if it's not too dirty, or with a bit of paint thinner on a paper towel, then relube. I still get 4000 miles....

Last edited by rm -rf; 01-28-19 at 06:05 PM.
rm -rf is offline  
Old 01-28-19, 06:07 PM
  #10  
hythamfekry
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 163
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 76 Post(s)
Originally Posted by rm -rf View Post
For road salt: I use a large garden sprinkling can of water, and flow water over the drivetrain and parts of the frame that got any road splashes. Then blot some of the water off, and let it dry indoors.

For Di2:
wipe off pivots with a paper towel, then lube with chain lube, and wipe off excess. (Shimano doesn't mention any lube maintenance methods for their Di2 derailleurs.)
I never lube jockey wheels, unless I remove them from the derailleur arm, disassemble and regrease. That's very rare.

For chains: I used to remove the chain at the quick link, shake in a plastic bottle with paint thinner, then shake with dish detergent and water, then rinse and dry. Nice and clean, and I got around 4000 miles per chain.
But now, I just wipe off the chain with paper towels and rubbing alcohol if it's not too dirty, or with a bit of paint thinner on a paper towel, then relube. I still get 4000 miles....
yea , i saw finish line video where they use dry lube on the mechs ,
hythamfekry is offline  
Old 01-28-19, 06:29 PM
  #11  
wgscott
VectorPotential sensitive
 
wgscott's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: The Timbers of Fennario (CL77)
Posts: 4,362

Bikes: Steel

Mentioned: 59 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2300 Post(s)
Originally Posted by hythamfekry View Post
you mean something like finish line ceramic wax ?
Paraffin.


wgscott is offline  
Old 01-28-19, 06:31 PM
  #12  
wgscott
VectorPotential sensitive
 
wgscott's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: The Timbers of Fennario (CL77)
Posts: 4,362

Bikes: Steel

Mentioned: 59 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2300 Post(s)
Originally Posted by hythamfekry View Post
just passed some very short distance of a road that had some floating water, it turned out that water is salty , after dry cleaning , some salt trace are still there , don't want that to cause any corrosion or damage to the mech
Warm water should be enough. Maybe add a wee bit of soap. I'd steer clear of paint thinner around Di2 components.
wgscott is offline  
Old 01-29-19, 04:37 AM
  #13  
hythamfekry
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 163
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 76 Post(s)
Originally Posted by AnkleWork View Post
It's just hydrocarbon solvent. Is Di2 hydrocarbon solvent-proof? Charcoal lighter fluid is the same thing and much, much cheaper.

BTW, does all that stuff need to be degreased?
I'm not sure if DI2 is hydrocarbon proof , but it's waterproof , i assume internal motor parts and elect. components is sealed efficiently to prevent any liquid getting in .
"Mucoff dry chain degreaser aerosol" product description says it can be used on derailleur "maybe they refer to mechanical ones ?" .. i guess it's hydrocarbon , but it should elaborate quickly without residue .. and it can be used as a classic degreaser for chain , pack have decent size as well "500ml" , so it's not a waste of money i guess .
Not sure if e-bike cleaner from muc-off works as well or no .
The only specefic product i found for electronic shifters is e-shift from finish line , they say it can be used also for gears and derailleurs as mentioned in their official youtube videos , but i feel it will be kinda extra gentle and weak on the chain , i also don't know its ingredients to be honest .
hythamfekry is offline  
Old 01-29-19, 10:15 AM
  #14  
davidad
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 5,705
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 270 Post(s)
I use an ultra sonic cleaner and chainsaw bar oil thinned with mineral spirits.
davidad is offline  
Old 01-29-19, 10:43 AM
  #15  
wgscott
VectorPotential sensitive
 
wgscott's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: The Timbers of Fennario (CL77)
Posts: 4,362

Bikes: Steel

Mentioned: 59 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2300 Post(s)
Do you put your Di2 components in an ultrasonic cleaner?

I use chain saw oil on my chain saws. No way would I use that on my bike. Everything adheres to it. Next thing you know, I would have to use an ultrasonic cleaner.

With wax, I occasionally have to use a paper towel. It is clean enough to do dry the dishes with afterwards.
wgscott is offline  
Old 01-29-19, 11:54 AM
  #16  
AnkleWork
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Llano Estacado
Posts: 3,206

Bikes: old clunker

Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 488 Post(s)
Originally Posted by hythamfekry View Post
I'm not sure if DI2 is hydrocarbon proof , but it's waterproof , i assume internal motor parts and elect. components is sealed efficiently to prevent any liquid getting in .
"Mucoff dry chain degreaser aerosol" product description says it can be used on derailleur "maybe they refer to mechanical ones ?" .. i guess it's hydrocarbon , but it should elaborate quickly without residue .. and it can be used as a classic degreaser for chain , pack have decent size as well "500ml" , so it's not a waste of money i guess .
Not sure if e-bike cleaner from muc-off works as well or no .
The only specefic product i found for electronic shifters is e-shift from finish line , they say it can be used also for gears and derailleurs as mentioned in their official youtube videos , but i feel it will be kinda extra gentle and weak on the chain , i also don't know its ingredients to be honest .
There's a logical disconnect in your first sentence.

Hydrocarbon solvents damage many types of plastic and elastomers (as used in seals). If you insist on "degreasing" your electric derailleur, maybe consider a chlorinated solvent developed for the electronics industry. But if you strip out the lube from internal recesses, like motor bearings, how will you replace it? Chain lube is probably not the best replacement.

If you will look at the published SDS for the product you won't have to guess. SDSs include very little marketing hype.

Checking prices at a large retailer, I see that per mL, muc-off costs about twenty-five times as much as the same solvent in less hyped packages.

Just FYI, according to the manufacturer e-shift is also just hydrocarbon solvent at an ultra premium price -- nothing kinda gentle about it.
AnkleWork is offline  
Old 01-29-19, 01:28 PM
  #17  
hythamfekry
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 163
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 76 Post(s)
Originally Posted by AnkleWork View Post
There's a logical disconnect in your first sentence.

Hydrocarbon solvents damage many types of plastic and elastomers (as used in seals). If you insist on "degreasing" your electric derailleur, maybe consider a chlorinated solvent developed for the electronics industry. But if you strip out the lube from internal recesses, like motor bearings, how will you replace it? Chain lube is probably not the best replacement.

If you will look at the published SDS for the product you won't have to guess. SDSs include very little marketing hype.

Checking prices at a large retailer, I see that per mL, muc-off costs about twenty-five times as much as the same solvent in less hyped packages.

Just FYI, according to the manufacturer e-shift is also just hydrocarbon solvent at an ultra premium price -- nothing kinda gentle about it.
That's weired , if e-shift that's specially made for DI2 is hydrocarbon is only another hydrocarbon , then its only benefit that's it's a dry formula that evaporate after use , maybe they depend on the fact that the derailleur is waterproof , motor bearings , etc should be inside the sealed shell , in finish line videos on youtube , they used the dry lube to lubricate external pivot points of the derailleur , mechanical brakes .
Thanks for the chlorinated solvent suggestion , that came cross my mind , anyway , i think i will just use non-pressurized water or a wet cloth to get rid of the salty residual on the mech. to avoid any corrosion or so ... and leave it without lubrication to avoid attracting dirt .. mechs "including electronic ones" can be washed with a non-pressurized water , i didn't came across manufacture recommendation to re-grease or lube derailleur after wash ...
Thanks for your answers
hythamfekry is offline  
Old 01-29-19, 02:11 PM
  #18  
TimothyH
- Soli Deo Gloria -
 
TimothyH's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Northwest Georgia
Posts: 13,192

Bikes: 2018 Rodriguez Custom Fixed Gear, 2017 Niner RLT 9 RDO, 2015 Bianchi Pista, 2002 Fuji Robaix

Mentioned: 201 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5885 Post(s)
There is no reason to be spraying any derailleur with cleaning solvents.

There is no difference between cleaning Di2 drivetrains and mechanical drivetrains.

This doesn't require Sheldon Brown's blessing, a PhD in environmental science or a World War III battle.

Remove the chain and clean. Wipe off the jockey wheels and front chainrings. Hose off any mud or dirt if present on the derailluers or spray with a spray bottle of water and wipe with a rag. Go at it with a Q-tip if you want. Reassemble and lube the chain. That's all.

Disassemble the jockey wheels, clean and reassemble with a drop or two of lube once per month or year or whenever you feel like it, more if you ride dirt.

That's all. No drama.


-Tim-
TimothyH is offline  
Old 01-29-19, 02:29 PM
  #19  
AnkleWork
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Llano Estacado
Posts: 3,206

Bikes: old clunker

Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 488 Post(s)
Originally Posted by hythamfekry View Post
That's weired , if e-shift that's specially made for DI2 ...
Not according to the people who make Di2. Conversely, the people pushing e-shift have a vested interest in marketing claims.
AnkleWork is offline  

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

Copyright 2018 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.