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Shimano 600 HG Freewheel teeth broken or supposed to be like this?

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Shimano 600 HG Freewheel teeth broken or supposed to be like this?

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Old 02-08-19, 05:18 PM
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cyclehealth
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Shimano 600 HG Freewheel teeth broken or supposed to be like this?

Cleaned up the freewheel and noticed some of the teeth are shorter than others. The tooth does not appear to be broken off but looks more like it was made that way. Thought I would check with you folks. If broken what effect would this have on shifting?

There is one short at about 2 o'clock on cog number 1 and at about 12 o'clock on cog number 3. There are a few others.
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Old 02-08-19, 05:42 PM
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They are made that way intentionally to improve shifting.
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Old 02-08-19, 06:38 PM
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...and that's UG, not HG
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Old 02-08-19, 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by rccardr View Post
...and that's UG, not HG
Looks like an HG to me.
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Old 02-08-19, 06:55 PM
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Originally Posted by HillRider View Post
They are made that way intentionally to improve shifting.
Thank you! I was hoping that was the case.
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Old 02-08-19, 06:58 PM
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Nah. HyperGlide has shaped teeth, some of which are partially different thicknesses to assist in shifting.
Still used in Shimano cassettes today, widely copied.
UltraGlide is twisted tooth technology, prior to HG, much wider variety of freewheels made. Used in early freehub cassettes, gone on road bikes after 1987 or so.
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Old 02-08-19, 08:23 PM
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If it is a 600 UG then why is it stamped 600 HG on the ring around the center? Confusing, at least to me. If it makes a difference, the freewheel is from an 1984 mt bike.
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Old 02-08-19, 10:11 PM
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I suspect the "HG" stamp is a date code and not a design/model reference. Andy
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Old 02-08-19, 10:48 PM
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On your "short" teeth.
Notice how evenly spaced they are? Kinda...
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Old 02-09-19, 01:19 AM
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Originally Posted by cyclehealth View Post
If it is a 600 UG then why is it stamped 600 HG on the ring around the center? Confusing, at least to me. If it makes a difference, the freewheel is from an 1984 mt bike.
Originally Posted by Andrew R Stewart View Post
I suspect the "HG" stamp is a date code and not a design/model reference. Andy
+1. "HG" would be July 1983, perfect timing to go on a 1984 bike.
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Old 02-09-19, 01:20 AM
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With Doc on this one, despite the interesting HG stamp. This FW is UG, and relied on twisted teeth and the noted shortened teeth to improve shifting over previous designs. Hyperglide FWs and cassettes revert to straight teeth with ramps and cutouts on the faces to improve shifting.

Posted FW looks to be in nice shape, don't know as I've ever seen a 14-34 before. Would look great on my 1990 Stumpjumper.
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Old 02-10-19, 08:12 AM
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Whichever the correct model designator or date code it is, the op should keep that FW and install it. If the gear counts are correct for your use and all else is good in the drivetrain, that FW should shift very well.
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Old 02-10-19, 05:45 PM
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I am afraid I ruined the freewheel when trying to remove it this AM. I was using the correct Shimano tool, I purchased one new old stock just for the job. Man, that freewheel is tight. I tried the method of turning the wheel with the tool clamped within the vise, would not budge. I resorted to a large adjustable wrench with a three foot breaker bar. It moved a smidgen and so I had to loosen the axle nut just a little to allow the tool some room to rotate when loosening and it moved a smidgen more. I removed the tool and my heart sank when I saw what allowed the rotation of the tool. I was chewing away the freewheel hub. Now I do not know the best way to remove it.

Note the chewed up steel from the removal tool. Bummer.
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Old 02-10-19, 11:38 PM
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At this point of damaging the tool's lands (on the freewheel) the two choices I know of are: Dremel the tool notches/lands square and diametrically opposed again to let the tool best engage both at the same time... OR remove the freewheel outer body/cogs (LH threading on the threaded race wit the two pin holes, use a drift punch and hammer as it's really tight) and than use a pipe wrench on the remaining inner core.

Did you have the QR skewer holding the tool tight against the FW? Andy
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Old 02-11-19, 07:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Andrew R Stewart View Post
At this point of damaging the tool's lands (on the freewheel) the two choices I know of are: Dremel the tool notches/lands square and diametrically opposed again to let the tool best engage both at the same time... OR remove the freewheel outer body/cogs (LH threading on the threaded race wit the two pin holes, use a drift punch and hammer as it's really tight) and than use a pipe wrench on the remaining inner core.


Did you have the QR skewer holding the tool tight against the FW? Andy

Yes, I am considering the dremel and was thinking it would be easier to access if the outer cogs were removed.



You mention "LH threading on the threaded race with the two pin holes" does this mean that I rotate it clockwise to loosen? And wouldn't there be a special tool to fit the two holes or is a "drift punch and hammer" a better choice?


I used the axle nut on the end of the solid thru axle to hold the freewheel removal tool snug. I am usually pretty good with those kinda details. I am now wondering if the solid thru axle in anyway interfered with the removal of the freewheel. Should the solid axle have been removed and a QR skewer used in it's place?
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Old 02-11-19, 07:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Andrew R Stewart View Post
remove the freewheel outer body/cogs (LH threading on the threaded race wit the two pin holes, use a drift punch and hammer as it's really tight) and than use a pipe wrench on the remaining inner core
This was exactly the method we used to remove freewheels back in the day, as nobody had any proper tools. Worked each time.
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Old 03-09-19, 02:37 PM
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Well I did get the freewheel off in one piece. I took AndrewRStewert's suggestion and using a dremel I was able to recut the lands. Worked great! Thanks to everyone for your help!
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