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i think im missing a peice of my cassette

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i think im missing a peice of my cassette

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Old 02-09-19, 03:18 PM
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global59
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i think im missing a peice of my cassette

I tried to take the sprocket off to replace a spoke but I learned about the lockring tool and couldn't take it off. I think when I took the bolt out I lost the piece that covers the bearings on the sprocket side because they are just exposed and when I put everything back together its just the bolt that touches the bearings its a sunrace cassette. also I can upload pictures yet but its literally just the big bolt in the middle and I have a big cone shaped rubber thing and like a rubber gasket on the other side but on the sprocket side the only piece I have other than the bolt is like a hexagon shaped nut that goes on the end
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Old 02-09-19, 03:57 PM
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Well, it sounds like you pulled the axle and the freehub body (assuming it is a cassette wheel). If then you've done more take apart then typical as only the cog set needs removal to access the guard and spokes. This is why photos are so helpful, so we know what's really going on.

If you have taken out the dust "seal/cap" from inside the outer end of the freehub body (and this is still a guess on my part) then while it's not really needed for function it will keep the bearings far cleaner so you need to find it, take all apart all over again and install the seal/dust cap. Usually the flatter side goes in and the recessed side is toward the threaded portion of the freehub body. If it's loose and made of metal one can gently use a needle nose pliers and pry out a few points around the circumference to make it tighter. Andy
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Old 02-09-19, 04:10 PM
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@global59 's album.

https://www.bikeforums.net/g/user/495214
https://www.bikeforums.net/g/album/12783653


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Old 02-09-19, 04:18 PM
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I have to see a side-view of your axle, but it looks like you have everything there.

It is a bit odd that it appears as if you have two lock-nuts on the drive side, and too many spacers.

Frequently it is only one lock-nut.

So:

Drive side:
Lock Nut; Very thin spacer (or no spacer); Cone

Non-Drive side:
Lock Nut; One or more wide spacers; Cone

The cone will be flat on one side, half round on the bearing side.

The goal is to get the rim so that it is centered between the lock nuts (centered in the frame when you mount the wheel).

I like to clean everything, add grease (which helps hold the bearings in place), reassemble. Although, your grease looks quite clean as long as you don't re-introduce dirt and grime.

You need a "Cone Wrench", probably 15mm, to adjust your cones. Lock down the drive side, and adjust the non-drive side, so the axle spins as smoothly as possible, but you can't wobble the axle at all. Lock it down with the cone wrench + 17mm wrench.

To get the cassette off, you'll need your cassette tool + a "chain whip". The cassette tool turns counter clockwise (direction the cassette freewheels). The chain whip holds it from spinning.

Last edited by CliffordK; 02-09-19 at 04:43 PM.
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Old 02-09-19, 07:14 PM
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thank you for the help,it was my first time taking apart a bike axle and I assumed that if I took the middle bolt out the sprockets should come off but I know now theyre attached to the hub and not the axle bolt
I looked on the sunrace website to see if they had like a repair guide or a parts catalogue for their cassettes/sprockets but they didn't. so im just going to check the grease after my next couple of rides

and thank you for your help with the locknut, I never moved the locknut that's supposed to be there so its still centered I think. also I cleaned everything well and I ordered some grease from parktools.
also what excactly do you mean by saying "you cant wobble the axle at all" thank you for the instructions too
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Old 02-09-19, 07:45 PM
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IF it's a Shimano HUB, provide the model and maybe we can find an exploded view drawing.
That way you know what should be where.
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Old 02-09-19, 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by global59 View Post
also what excactly do you mean by saying "you cant wobble the axle at all" thank you for the instructions too
Ok,

As I adjust the cones, I tighten the cones, I do a combination of twisting the axle and pushing it up/down.

With high quality races/cones, the axle should spin freely, but tight enough that you have no up/down movement. Any tighter, and you'll feel friction spinning the axle.

If you put the wheel on your bike, then you may be able to feel the rim bend slightly as you push it right/left, but there won't be any obvious slop at the hub.

Clamping down the quick release will tighten the axle slightly. Spinning the wheel on the bike, it should spin freely.
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Old 02-09-19, 08:24 PM
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The two locknuts on the drive side is fairly common, I just overhauled a mid 1980's Shimano 105 hub with this configuration.

Photos help a lot and I can see that my reading of the OP was rather off as the seal/dust cap is still there. Generally this seal/cap has a close but not touching fit around the cone. because of the limited accessibility to the drive side cone and lock nuts when the axle is in place you will need to lock this side together tightly and do all the bearing adjustments from the other end of the axle. Because this axle is a QR desigh the final adjustment is correct when AFTER clamping the wheel in place the wheel spins freely and there's no slop. Because the QR skewer can "compress" the axle a small amount the adjustment before installing the wheel and tightening the QR needs to be ever so slightly loose/sloppy. How much is the result of trial and error till it's right. Andy
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Old 02-11-19, 08:56 AM
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Thank you everyone itís fixed now

Its a Sunrace cassette/sprocket I donít know the excact model because I bought it used and every time I ask emailed the company they said they have different parts on the bike every year and I stop there because it sounds like even with a serial number they wouldnít know

and thank you for explaining the wobble to me

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Old 02-11-19, 10:57 AM
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If you take photos of the actual hub, and any writing on the hub, and upload them to your "album/gallery" that you didn't know you had, we can help identify it.

Shimano is one of the big companies that is making hubs at all price levels from the bottom to the top, and still using loose bearings (or bearings in cages).

They can be good hubs, and people like the ease of replacing grease/bearings/cones, but they aren't maintenance free.
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