Promax DC-310 disc brake manual
02-14-19, 09:21 AM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: 25 miles northwest of Boston
Posts: 28,727
Bikes: Bottecchia Sprint, GT Timberline 29r, Marin Muirwoods 29er, Trek FX Alpha 7.0
Mentioned: 109 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4973 Post(s)
Liked 3,077 Times
in
2,042 Posts
Promax DC-310 disc brake manual
anyone have access to an old manual for the 310 model? the oldest I seem to be able to find on the internet is for #717
02-14-19, 10:43 AM
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: 25 miles northwest of Boston
Posts: 28,727
Bikes: Bottecchia Sprint, GT Timberline 29r, Marin Muirwoods 29er, Trek FX Alpha 7.0
Mentioned: 109 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4973 Post(s)
Liked 3,077 Times
in
2,042 Posts
Originally Posted by cobba
What do you need to know about the brakes? It looks to be a fairly basic low end mechanical disc brake.
what screw adjusts caliper proximity? (I think it's the big one in the middle of the bump-out, but on the inside near the wheel)
do I need to back it off before swapping pads or can I just push the piston? with a screw driver?
do I need to remove the assembly from the bike?
Last edited by rumrunn6; 02-14-19 at 12:12 PM.
02-14-19, 11:00 AM
#4
Banned
Generically, you have a screw on the inside, for the fixed pad , and its wear adjustment ..
Outside . moving pad , I just use the cable clamp on the actuating arm ..
although you do have that cable adjuster .. for a little adjustment of the outside pad.. (Avid BB5, etc. , same idea)
Outside . moving pad , I just use the cable clamp on the actuating arm ..
although you do have that cable adjuster .. for a little adjustment of the outside pad.. (Avid BB5, etc. , same idea)
02-14-19, 12:29 PM
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 4,747
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 621 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 358 Times
in
197 Posts
what screw adjusts caliper proximity? (I think it's the big one in the middle of the bump-out, but on the inside near the wheel)
do I need to back it off before swapping pads or can I just push the piston? with a screw driver?
do I need to remove the assembly from the bike?
do I need to back it off before swapping pads or can I just push the piston? with a screw driver?
do I need to remove the assembly from the bike?
2. Release all tension from the cable and then back off using the adjustment screw. It is not a hydraulic brake so you don't need to push the pistons in...and if you had to, you definitely would not use a screwdriver.
3. Depends on how fine your motor skills are but probably not.
02-14-19, 02:10 PM
#6
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: 25 miles northwest of Boston
Posts: 28,727
Bikes: Bottecchia Sprint, GT Timberline 29r, Marin Muirwoods 29er, Trek FX Alpha 7.0
Mentioned: 109 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4973 Post(s)
Liked 3,077 Times
in
2,042 Posts
thanks guys
Last edited by rumrunn6; 02-14-19 at 02:37 PM.
02-14-19, 08:00 PM
#7
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: 25 miles northwest of Boston
Posts: 28,727
Bikes: Bottecchia Sprint, GT Timberline 29r, Marin Muirwoods 29er, Trek FX Alpha 7.0
Mentioned: 109 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4973 Post(s)
Liked 3,077 Times
in
2,042 Posts
for my future reference when I come back to this thread to do it again
the clips come out the top with thin pliers & the pads come out the bottom, one at a time
putting them back in, again one at a time. takes a little while to get one in, in such a way that there's room for the other to slide in. best to do it sitting down rather than hunched over. good lighting helps
used a small thin screwdriver to help tuck one pad in on one side, so I could get the other in
visually, they look pretty good compared to the new ones. the front pads measure 2mm or better. some guide said replace them at 1.5mm or thinner, so I put them back in
I did mark them so I would know which was inside & outside, but at this point they seem fairly equal
front
one side
other side
rear: did not bother taking them out, cuz they look fine too. maybe I'll pull them when I mount up the summer tires
put the wheels back on & everything spins & stops perfectly. like I said originally, wasn't having any issues. but feel good about checking them so closely. hopefully, I won't lose the new pads before I need them!
the clips come out the top with thin pliers & the pads come out the bottom, one at a time
putting them back in, again one at a time. takes a little while to get one in, in such a way that there's room for the other to slide in. best to do it sitting down rather than hunched over. good lighting helps
used a small thin screwdriver to help tuck one pad in on one side, so I could get the other in
visually, they look pretty good compared to the new ones. the front pads measure 2mm or better. some guide said replace them at 1.5mm or thinner, so I put them back in
I did mark them so I would know which was inside & outside, but at this point they seem fairly equal
front
one side
other side
rear: did not bother taking them out, cuz they look fine too. maybe I'll pull them when I mount up the summer tires
put the wheels back on & everything spins & stops perfectly. like I said originally, wasn't having any issues. but feel good about checking them so closely. hopefully, I won't lose the new pads before I need them!
Last edited by rumrunn6; 02-15-19 at 08:35 AM.
08-10-22, 09:08 AM
#8
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: 25 miles northwest of Boston
Posts: 28,727
Bikes: Bottecchia Sprint, GT Timberline 29r, Marin Muirwoods 29er, Trek FX Alpha 7.0
Mentioned: 109 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4973 Post(s)
Liked 3,077 Times
in
2,042 Posts
Originally Posted by rumrunn6
wasn't having any issues. but feel good about checking them so closely. hopefully, I won't lose the new pads before I need them!
