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Brake Lever Dilemma: TRP Spyre vs Spyke Mech Disc Calipers

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Brake Lever Dilemma: TRP Spyre vs Spyke Mech Disc Calipers

Old 03-01-19, 09:17 PM
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michaelm101
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Brake Lever Dilemma: TRP Spyre vs Spyke Mech Disc Calipers

You may have read a previous post regarding my dilemma with flat bar conversion with my Spyre equipped bike. I tried canti and linear pulls with the Spyres and the rear (5ft internally routed cable) is not happening. They were fine with the road levers on the drop bars.

I recently bought a Spyke (mtb caliper) for the rear after a few have mentioned that flat bar levers aren't the best setup for road calipers, that MTB calipers would be best.

I just installed the Spyke on the rear and there is not much difference in feel, modulation and stopping power.

In fact, I hold both the Spyre and Spyke in my hand and there really is no difference besides the finish/name, dust cover and slightly wider top area where the cable attaches on the Spyke. Perhaps, a marketing thing?

Can anybody tell me otherwise as the folks over at TRP aren't answering? Thanks in advance!
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Old 03-01-19, 10:29 PM
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You have drop bars while using a rear mtb caliper?
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Old 03-01-19, 11:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Troul View Post
You have drop bars while using a rear mtb caliper?
The bike was converted from drop bar, with OEM TRP road levers, to flat bar...
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Old 03-02-19, 01:44 AM
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The difference between the two brakes is internal. Much like the BB7, it has ramps that ball bearings on the piston ride along. As you pull the lever more, the ramps/divots get shallower. Because linear pull levers have more cable pull, the ramps are longer, or shallower.

So, just like with the road and mountain versions of the BB7, the Spyre and Spyke are externally identical. The Spyke may need more frequent pad adjustment because the cable tension adjustment can only take up so much slack before the lever arm runs out of travel.

And of course, make sure the pads are bedded in properly. I don't know how well it would be to fake it by swapping the supposedly bedded in pads and rotors (as a set) from the front.
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Old 03-02-19, 12:04 PM
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short vs longer

Yes the difference is the ratio of movement inwards for cable pull, at a right angle to that motion .. like BB 5 & 7 arm turns a ramped crown like ring..
Short pull is a steeper ramp..
They just have 2 , 1 on each side, ... Avid, just 1..

Door # 3 ..
I'm now using a TRP Hy* Road caliper with avid Speed Dial Levers, dialed to shorten the cable pull .. In place of BB7 Mountain calipers..


and I also left cable slack in the way I set them up, so brake lever swings a ways before the pads touch the disc..

may get a cantilever pull old MTB brake lever set, later.. longer lever swing..

* cable operated Hydraulic, so auto pad wear compensation..


back end V is high MA , due to length of arm; To provide that long cable pull the lever pivot to cable head is longer, Lowering the MA..



Mechanics of levers thousands of years old..






...

Last edited by fietsbob; 03-02-19 at 12:28 PM.
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Old 03-20-19, 07:36 PM
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michaelm101
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Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
Saw in a parts breakdown drawing ( of both Spyre (road) and Spyre (mtb), an 'exploded view' --a ring is rotated by the lever arm on the caliper,
the ramps in that crown-like ring are steeper with short pull version (Spyre), than the longer pull (Spyke) ..

Mechanics of levers thousands of years old..
Yep! My new rear Spyke is superior both from a subjective experience and objective/mechanical/physical/lever standpoint. It's rockin with a cool set of Avid SD5s, and I'm getting another one to replace the front Spyre...

Be informed that the Spyres were relatively satisfactory with drop-bar/road levers...
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Old 03-20-19, 09:41 PM
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Ok, but I went with the HyRd, as I said .. auto pad wear adjustment + the lock out knob,
so unlike full hydros you can block the actuation while the wheel is out ..
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