E*thirteen TRS+ Dropper Post with sideways play - fixable?
04-20-19, 12:18 PM
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E*thirteen TRS+ Dropper Post with sideways play - fixable?
Hi,
I picked up a used E13 TRS+ mechanical dropper post today for cheap. The old owner was tired of the play in it, so I thought I would give it a go. I know it's normal for every dropper post to have a bit sideways play in it, but this one seems a bit too much and is noticeable while riding. I've tried to tighten the 10mm bolt under the seat mount without success. Is there anything that I can do to save it? I've heard people talking about swapping the brass keys for some bigger ones and/or the seals? Would be pretty neat if it could be fixed.
Video: youtu . be/n7VUnLQfGWE (Can't post links)
Thanks in advance,
Jacob
I picked up a used E13 TRS+ mechanical dropper post today for cheap. The old owner was tired of the play in it, so I thought I would give it a go. I know it's normal for every dropper post to have a bit sideways play in it, but this one seems a bit too much and is noticeable while riding. I've tried to tighten the 10mm bolt under the seat mount without success. Is there anything that I can do to save it? I've heard people talking about swapping the brass keys for some bigger ones and/or the seals? Would be pretty neat if it could be fixed.
Video: youtu . be/n7VUnLQfGWE (Can't post links)
Thanks in advance,
Jacob
04-20-19, 01:42 PM
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Can't see your link (its been scrambled). Is
it?
The responses to this problem seem to range from "it's normal" to "contact e13". If the video I posted is your issue, I'm taking it that there are grooves in the top part of the inner post and in the seat clamp, and a brass key is in there to prevent wiggle? If the grooves in the post or clamp aren't worn you could try a new brass key. If they're worn, the industrial fix would be to cut new, slighty larger grooves in both parts. This requires a machine shop (a milling machine for the shaft) and/or special tool (a broaching tool for the seat clamp). Not sure if the view is worth the climb.
User's Manual here.
The responses to this problem seem to range from "it's normal" to "contact e13". If the video I posted is your issue, I'm taking it that there are grooves in the top part of the inner post and in the seat clamp, and a brass key is in there to prevent wiggle? If the grooves in the post or clamp aren't worn you could try a new brass key. If they're worn, the industrial fix would be to cut new, slighty larger grooves in both parts. This requires a machine shop (a milling machine for the shaft) and/or special tool (a broaching tool for the seat clamp). Not sure if the view is worth the climb.
User's Manual here.
04-20-19, 02:17 PM
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I can see E13 sells a service pack on their site including new bearings, screws, bushings, inner bushings, keys, bolts etc. for 35$ (Can't link due to forum limits). They do also have other parts.
There is a bit more play than in the video you linked by what I can tell. I can see E13 sells a service pack on their site including new bearings, screws, bushings, inner bushings, keys, bolts etc. for 35$ (Can't link due to forum limits). Do you think a new pair of keys from E13 can do the job, or do I need special cut keys?
Can't see your link (its been scrambled). Is this it?
The responses to this problem seem to range from "it's normal" to "contact e13". If the video I posted is your issue, I'm taking it that there are grooves in the top part of the inner post and in the seat clamp, and a brass key is in there to prevent wiggle? If the grooves in the post or clamp aren't worn you could try a new brass key. If they're worn, the industrial fix would be to cut new, slighty larger grooves in both parts. This requires a machine shop (a milling machine for the shaft) and/or special tool (a broaching tool for the seat clamp). Not sure if the view is worth the climb.
The responses to this problem seem to range from "it's normal" to "contact e13". If the video I posted is your issue, I'm taking it that there are grooves in the top part of the inner post and in the seat clamp, and a brass key is in there to prevent wiggle? If the grooves in the post or clamp aren't worn you could try a new brass key. If they're worn, the industrial fix would be to cut new, slighty larger grooves in both parts. This requires a machine shop (a milling machine for the shaft) and/or special tool (a broaching tool for the seat clamp). Not sure if the view is worth the climb.
04-21-19, 10:04 AM
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https://bythehive.com/collections/re...30-9-seatposts
They also have slidedecks on disassembly and assembly. I can now see what you mean by the brass keys. Kind of a small key for a high torque item. It's also pretty clear that the 10mm SHCS* is not the mechanism part that limits wiggle. But the slidedeck might help:
https://support.bythehive.com/hc/en-...ce-Disassembly
*Socket Head Cap Screw
04-21-19, 01:58 PM
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The replacement kit is at:
They also have slidedecks on disassembly and assembly. I can now see what you mean by the brass keys. Kind of a small key for a high torque item. It's also pretty clear that the 10mm SHCS* is not the mechanism part that limits wiggle. But the slidedeck might help:
*Socket Head Cap Screw
They also have slidedecks on disassembly and assembly. I can now see what you mean by the brass keys. Kind of a small key for a high torque item. It's also pretty clear that the 10mm SHCS* is not the mechanism part that limits wiggle. But the slidedeck might help:
*Socket Head Cap Screw
04-21-19, 02:06 PM
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Hmmm. Can you tell whether the keys are the thing that are keeping the seat straight? Can you reassemble but leave the keys out to see if the thing can twist 10° or 20° or so (easy does it - don't break the thing doing this test!).
If you had both an external and an internal micrometer you could compare the key with with the key slot width. Most folks don't have both. Does (do) the brass key(s) seemed worn or distorted? How about the slot?
Maybe check with e13 and see what they say.
If you had both an external and an internal micrometer you could compare the key with with the key slot width. Most folks don't have both. Does (do) the brass key(s) seemed worn or distorted? How about the slot?
Maybe check with e13 and see what they say.
04-21-19, 02:24 PM
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Hmmm. Can you tell whether the keys are the thing that are keeping the seat straight? Can you reassemble but leave the keys out to see if the thing can twist 10° or 20° or so (easy does it - don't break the thing doing this test!).
If you had both an external and an internal micrometer you could compare the key with with the key slot width. Most folks don't have both. Does (do) the brass key(s) seemed worn or distorted? How about the slot?
Maybe check with e13 and see what they say.
If you had both an external and an internal micrometer you could compare the key with with the key slot width. Most folks don't have both. Does (do) the brass key(s) seemed worn or distorted? How about the slot?
Maybe check with e13 and see what they say.
04-22-19, 06:40 AM
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Cool. Please keep the forum posted on what you learn.
I'm not an MTB guy, so the idea of dropper seat posts are foreign to me. It was interesting to learn a bit.
I'm not an MTB guy, so the idea of dropper seat posts are foreign to me. It was interesting to learn a bit.
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