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Pinarello F10 and Super Record 12 question

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Pinarello F10 and Super Record 12 question

Old 06-06-19, 10:05 AM
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Originally Posted by alcjphil
That red tool is a tubing cutter for metal tubing. Your fork steer tube is carbon fiber. Do NOT cut your fork steer tube with a tubing cutter, you will ruin it
Thanx a lot!
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Old 06-06-19, 10:17 AM
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I'm about to start a brand new build of a 2006 Opera Leonardo FP (2006 Pinarello Paris) with Chorus 11. Not much different from your build. I can take photos as I go and post a thread if it'll help you. The only thing done so far is a LBS cut down the carbon steerer tube for me - I don't have those tools and will never need them again. Also the headset bearings came installed in the frame.
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Old 06-06-19, 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by CyclingFool95
I'm about to start a brand new build of a 2006 Opera Leonardo FP (2006 Pinarello Paris) with Chorus 11. Not much different from your build. I can take photos as I go and post a thread if it'll help you. The only thing done so far is a LBS cut down the carbon steerer tube for me - I don't have those tools and will never need them again. Also the headset bearings came installed in the frame.
OK,waiting for your post.
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Old 06-06-19, 06:21 PM
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Originally Posted by cycling2012
OK,waiting for your post.
This person has chosen to have the fork steer tube cut by the shop. This is very easy to screw up. Cutting the steer tube to the correct length is critical to the future of your bike. If you do it yourself and cut off too much you will have scrapped an expensive part of your bike. The red tubing cutter is a very large red flag to your bike build. Don't do this part of the job yourself
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Old 06-06-19, 07:35 PM
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Originally Posted by alcjphil
This person has chosen to have the fork steer tube cut by the shop. This is very easy to screw up. Cutting the steer tube to the correct length is critical to the future of your bike. If you do it yourself and cut off too much you will have scrapped an expensive part of your bike. The red tubing cutter is a very large red flag to your bike build. Don't do this part of the job yourself
Yes, to cut a carbon steerer, you need a special hacksaw blade, and you should get the cutter guide to ensure a straight cut. Don't use a pipe cutter! Also, a file to smooth the edges. It's around $50 worth of Park tools. Personally, I thought about it but decided $40 for my local Pinarello dealer to do the job was better - less risk for me, and I'll probably never need to cut a carbon steerer again anyway. If you have the right tools, it's not that difficult - remember the old carpenter adage - measure twice, cut once. I had mine left around an inch or inch and a half long - if/when I decide I don't need it, and I decide it looks ugly sticking out above the stem, I'll have the shop cut it down.
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Old 06-06-19, 08:36 PM
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Originally Posted by alcjphil
This person has chosen to have the fork steer tube cut by the shop. This is very easy to screw up. Cutting the steer tube to the correct length is critical to the future of your bike. If you do it yourself and cut off too much you will have scrapped an expensive part of your bike. The red tubing cutter is a very large red flag to your bike build. Don't do this part of the job yourself
"The red tubing cutter is a very large red flag to your bike build" ,so your advice is to use that red tools or not?
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Old 06-06-19, 08:39 PM
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Originally Posted by cycling2012
"The red tubing cutter is a very large red flag to your bike build" ,so your advice is to use that red tools or not?
Absolutely do not use that cutter on a carbon steerer. You need these:

Park Tool Carbon Cutting Saw Blade https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00426GT1W..._.4C-CbFXGRWCN

Park Tool Oversized Adjustable Saw Guide https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0042696TY..._G5C-CbBE7JXNP
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Old 06-06-19, 11:13 PM
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Originally Posted by CyclingFool95
Absolutely do not use that cutter on a carbon steerer. You need these:

Park Tool Carbon Cutting Saw Blade https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00426GT1W..._.4C-CbFXGRWCN

Park Tool Oversized Adjustable Saw Guide https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0042696TY..._G5C-CbBE7JXNP
okay thanx.
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Old 06-07-19, 04:52 AM
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Originally Posted by cycling2012
"The red tubing cutter is a very large red flag to your bike build" ,so your advice is to use that red tools or not?
Dude, just bring the bike to a bike shop before you destroy it...
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Old 06-07-19, 04:54 AM
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Originally Posted by ChinookTx
Dude, just bring the bike to a bike shop before you destroy it...
haha I will
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Old 06-07-19, 05:31 AM
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Originally Posted by cycling2012
"The red tubing cutter is a very large red flag to your bike build" ,so your advice is to use that red tools or not?
Did you not read the next 8 words? "Don't do this part of the job yourself"
Seems pretty clear to me
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Old 06-07-19, 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by CyclingFool95
Absolutely do not use that cutter on a carbon steerer. You need these:

Park Tool Carbon Cutting Saw Blade https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00426GT1W..._.4C-CbFXGRWCN

Park Tool Oversized Adjustable Saw Guide https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0042696TY..._G5C-CbBE7JXNP

Is the screw necessary? In super record 12 cranks?
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Old 06-07-19, 10:12 PM
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Originally Posted by CyclingFool95
I'm about to start a brand new build of a 2006 Opera Leonardo FP (2006 Pinarello Paris) with Chorus 11. Not much different from your build. I can take photos as I go and post a thread if it'll help you. The only thing done so far is a LBS cut down the carbon steerer tube for me - I don't have those tools and will never need them again. Also the headset bearings came installed in the frame.









The crankset chainrings ,some are flat,some are not flat,is it all right?

How to install crank? Remove six angle screw sr107 and install?
Min 42nm max 60nm, what does it mean?

Last edited by cycling2012; 06-08-19 at 05:20 AM.
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Old 06-08-19, 06:01 AM
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Originally Posted by cycling2012
I will take the bike to there 7 km away and the mechanic is too young maybe just 20-25 years old,but that store is shimano authorized store,tools are many......
And how do you know that they haven't been wrenching on bikes for the last 10 years or so, and maybe as qualified as you can get in the bike industry.

The tools (and pipe cutter!) you have photoed (take it they are yours?) are pretty basic/generic, and you're wanting to build a very high end bike!! You will need specific tools, also, higher quality tools are nicer to work with & have higher tolerances, so less likely to slip

From your posts, your probably better off leaving it with the LBS, same for any post that asks about high-end bikes, they immediately indicate that the poster is out of their depth with out needing to read anything else.
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Old 06-08-19, 06:10 AM
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What @jimc101 said, leave it to the pros, you have no idea what you're doing. It's fine to learn on a cheap bike, not on a (fake?) 5000$ bike!
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Old 06-08-19, 07:06 AM
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Originally Posted by cycling2012
The crankset chainrings ,some are flat,some are not flat,is it all right?

How to install crank? Remove six angle screw sr107 and install?
Min 42nm max 60nm, what does it mean?
From the questions you're asking, I'm going to have to agree with others here. If you really want to work on bikes, buy something old/cheap, take it apart, and put it back together. You'll learn a lot that way. Don't have your first build be a $2000 groupset and $4000 frame (especially a carbon one).

You should read all of Campy's instruction manuals that came with the groupset - they will answer your questions. They are very good. I've always found there warning on every other page about don't screw up, it can cause death (I'm paraphrasing a little) to be over the top, but maybe not. At the very least, you can ruin expensive components or frame.

To answer your question though, once the cups are properly installed in the frame's bottom bracket, you just push in the crankset (follow Campy's instructions and don't forget the wavy washer). Then, the bolt is used to join the two halves of the crankset together in the middle (make sure the crankarms are exactly 180° apart). You then torque the bolt to 42-60 N-m (Newton-meters) using a torque wrench. You can convert N-m to in-lbs here: Newton Meters to Pound-Force Inchs Conversion Calculator
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Old 06-08-19, 07:44 AM
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Originally Posted by cycling2012
The crankset chainrings ,some are flat,some are not flat,is it all right?

How to install crank? Remove six angle screw sr107 and install?
Min 42nm max 60nm, what does it mean?
Originally Posted by CyclingFool95
From the questions you're asking, I'm going to have to agree with others here. If you really want to work on bikes, buy something old/cheap, take it apart, and put it back together. You'll learn a lot that way. Don't have your first build be a $2000 groupset and $4000 frame (especially a carbon one).

You should read all of Campy's instruction manuals that came with the groupset - they will answer your questions. They are very good. I've always found there warning on every other page about don't screw up, it can cause death (I'm paraphrasing a little) to be over the top, but maybe not. At the very least, you can ruin expensive components or frame.

To answer your question though, once the cups are properly installed in the frame's bottom bracket, you just push in the crankset (follow Campy's instructions and don't forget the wavy washer). Then, the bolt is used to join the two halves of the crankset together in the middle (make sure the crankarms are exactly 180° apart). You then torque the bolt to 42-60 N-m (Newton-meters) using a torque wrench. You can convert N-m to in-lbs here: Newton Meters to Pound-Force Inchs Conversion Calculator
I'll add my voice and echo what everyone else is saying - Having a first bike build with a $4000 frame and top of the line Super Record components is NOT the way to learn how to build a bike. As someone who has built literally hundreds of customs bikes (I wrench for a couple of local shops, ended up building the Campagnolo equipped customs for several shops because they didn't have any experience with Campagnolo) it is easy to damage some of these high end components and not even know you've done it.

That said, yes, remove the center bolt SR107. It should be a 10mm hex wrench to remove it. Assemble per Campag's instructions like @CyclingFool95 said. A few of tips: Put a light coating of grease in the cups prior to inserting the chainset. Don't forget to install the spring clip as this is what locates the chainset in the proper position. It may take a little light pressure pushing the chainset in to get the clip to seat properly. And since you have a Super Record chainset the centerbolt (SR107) is a left-hand thread. It tightens anti-clockwise, and installs from the NDS crank.
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Old 06-08-19, 07:47 AM
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One more thing - That center bolt SR107 is titanium. Make sure your wrench is fully seated before applying any torque, and use a light touch when threading it into the chainset. It is pretty easy to bugger up on that bolt, and replacements are $$$$$.
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Old 06-08-19, 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by RGMN
I'll add my voice and echo what everyone else is saying - Having a first bike build with a $4000 frame and top of the line Super Record components is NOT the way to learn how to build a bike. As someone who has built literally hundreds of customs bikes (I wrench for a couple of local shops, ended up building the Campagnolo equipped customs for several shops because they didn't have any experience with Campagnolo) it is easy to damage some of these high end components and not even know you've done it.

That said, yes, remove the center bolt SR107. It should be a 10mm hex wrench to remove it. Assemble per Campag's instructions like @CyclingFool95 said. A few of tips: Put a light coating of grease in the cups prior to inserting the chainset. Don't forget to install the spring clip as this is what locates the chainset in the proper position. It may take a little light pressure pushing the chainset in to get the clip to seat properly. And since you have a Super Record chainset the centerbolt (SR107) is a left-hand thread. It tightens anti-clockwise, and installs from the NDS crank.
I have asked 3 local stores near my home ,they don't have bb130,bb110,Torque wrench for 40-60nm.thats the reason I want to install by myself.......
I need to buy some necessary tools.
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Old 06-08-19, 05:51 PM
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Originally Posted by cycling2012
I have asked 3 local stores near my home ,they don't have bb130,bb110,Torque wrench for 40-60nm.thats the reason I want to install by myself.......
I need to buy some necessary tools.
Don't know what to say about this. A torque wrench is not a bicycle specific tool. If local bike shops don't have one, you are going to the wrong shops. Any reputable bike shop should have torque wrenches in their workshop. Shops that install Shimano and SRAM components have just as much need for a torque wrench as if they were installing Campagnolo components. Buying tools that you don't know how to use is not a solution unless you are willing to take a proper mechanics course to learn what they are for and how to use them. From a previous post, (#37) it appears that you don't even know the difference between a Powertorque crank and the Ultratorque crank that you bought. Ignorance can cost you a lot of money

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Old 06-08-19, 07:02 PM
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Old 06-08-19, 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Bandera
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I think you are right. This whole scenario is beyond belief.
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Old 06-08-19, 07:23 PM
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Originally Posted by shelbyfv
I think you are right. This whole scenario is beyond belief.
+1 I can't believe people are still responding to this thread and expecting their advice to be understood. The OP seems immune to good advice or completely unable to grasp what he is being told.
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Old 06-08-19, 07:59 PM
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Originally Posted by HillRider
+1 I can't believe people are still responding to this thread and expecting their advice to be understood. The OP seems immune to good advice or completely unable to grasp what he is being told.
I know what you mean, but hope springs eternal. Some consolation in knowing that if I stop banging my head against this wall it will feel really good
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Old 06-08-19, 09:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Bandera
Trolled.......
Originally Posted by HillRider
+1 I can't believe people are still responding to this thread and expecting their advice to be understood. The OP seems immune to good advice or completely unable to grasp what he is being told.
+1
+1
Or public pud pulling? [NOT attractive.]
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