Pinarello F10 and Super Record 12 question
#52
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#53
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That crank looks as real as they get, it's a current 12 speed forged carbon (love or hate the look) Campag Super Record crank.
Still don;t really understand what the question about it was, but it's real, never heard of fake Campag before, and if there was, everyone would know about it.
Still don;t really understand what the question about it was, but it's real, never heard of fake Campag before, and if there was, everyone would know about it.
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I know, I know. If you've followed OP's build from the start, there was a thread where his whole frame was suspected to be fake by some, and legit by others. I was just poking him.
#55
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so this time I bought from Netherlands (although the dealer is not authorized dealer) and Italy (this time,the dealer is pinarello and campagnolo authorized dealer).
it's not easy for me to build the bike ,bought around the world ~~~~
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I'm sorry if this seems dismissive but it's not easy for you to build that bike, or any bike, because you don't seem to understand how to do it. As several of us posted above, find a good bike shop and let them do the work.
#57
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ok,you and other guys advice is important to me.
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That crank looks as real as they get, it's a current 12 speed forged carbon (love or hate the look) Campag Super Record crank.
Still don;t really understand what the question about it was, but it's real, never heard of fake Campag before, and if there was, everyone would know about it.
Still don;t really understand what the question about it was, but it's real, never heard of fake Campag before, and if there was, everyone would know about it.
Likes For AnkleWork:
#59
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Takes time and tools:
-(Good) Torx keys
-Hex keys
-Campagnolo BB cup tool (UT-BB130)
-Torque wrenchew, both a low-range (2-20Nm, for all the miscellaneous bits) and a mid-range (30-60Nm, for the BB cups and UT crank bolt--yes that bolt really is supposed to be 40-60Nm).
-The above mentioned long-reach 10mm allen (UT-BB110 for example)
-Cable/housing cutter, for mechanical groups
-Cable end caps
-Carbon assembly paste
-Setting brakes are easier with a 3rd hand brake tool, but not necessary
-Chain breaker....also a master link to put it back together.
-Steerer tube cutting jig and saw.
Takes time. Campagnolo is nice, because all parts in retail packaging generally come with useful install manuals that tell you what you need to know. With carbon fiber ALWAYS READ AND RESPECT torque values AND USE A TORQUE WRENCH. Sorry for the shouting, but if you're new at this you will destroy expensive parts if you don't.
Which...for all that you're looking at several hundred USD for this project in tools you may never use again (cable cutters and a steer tube jig, cutting blade, BB cup tool). May well be cheaper to have a shop do it, if you have a good relationship.
-(Good) Torx keys
-Hex keys
-Campagnolo BB cup tool (UT-BB130)
-Torque wrenchew, both a low-range (2-20Nm, for all the miscellaneous bits) and a mid-range (30-60Nm, for the BB cups and UT crank bolt--yes that bolt really is supposed to be 40-60Nm).
-The above mentioned long-reach 10mm allen (UT-BB110 for example)
-Cable/housing cutter, for mechanical groups
-Cable end caps
-Carbon assembly paste
-Setting brakes are easier with a 3rd hand brake tool, but not necessary
-Chain breaker....also a master link to put it back together.
-Steerer tube cutting jig and saw.
Takes time. Campagnolo is nice, because all parts in retail packaging generally come with useful install manuals that tell you what you need to know. With carbon fiber ALWAYS READ AND RESPECT torque values AND USE A TORQUE WRENCH. Sorry for the shouting, but if you're new at this you will destroy expensive parts if you don't.
Which...for all that you're looking at several hundred USD for this project in tools you may never use again (cable cutters and a steer tube jig, cutting blade, BB cup tool). May well be cheaper to have a shop do it, if you have a good relationship.
Sorry, hit post before I was done answering.
All Campagnolo chainsets have the axle attached, and use the same chainset whether it is an English or Italian or a press-fit bottom bracket. All you need is the correct bottom bracket, a long 10mm hex, the Campag bottom bracket tool, and some 222 (purple) Locktite and you should be set to install it.
Post some pictures when you're done.
All Campagnolo chainsets have the axle attached, and use the same chainset whether it is an English or Italian or a press-fit bottom bracket. All you need is the correct bottom bracket, a long 10mm hex, the Campag bottom bracket tool, and some 222 (purple) Locktite and you should be set to install it.
Post some pictures when you're done.
The only specialty tool needed is the cup tool and that isn't actually all that expensive as it is used with a 3/8" drive ratchet wrench. I bought all the tools when I installed my UT crank/BB, including the bearing extractor, something I'll likely never use again. The 3/8" drive long arm ratchet comes in handy for a lot of things, the torque wrench is always useful, but the specialty stuff for Campy is not. I don't regret buying them though, and since I bought the extractor used I can probably sell it for the same cost, as can the next guy, and the next, etc...
If the OP lives in the NYC area I'd be willing to help.
If the OP lives in the NYC area I'd be willing to help.
Ut-cn300 is necessary?150 pound.......
#60
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No. Get a Park chain tool, and a bunch of Master links (kmc or other brand). That saves you having to form the Campy pin. You're going 12 speed? Not sure how that works with the link
https://www.merlincycles.com/kmc-missing-link-11-speed-95294.html
Park tool to break the chain to get the right length.
You may want to get a tool for opening the quick link - mine is Park. It's not expensive.
Nice thing about Park tools is if you break it, they'll send you a new one. My chain tool fractured. Emailed a photo, they mailed me another.
https://www.merlincycles.com/kmc-missing-link-11-speed-95294.html
Park tool to break the chain to get the right length.
You may want to get a tool for opening the quick link - mine is Park. It's not expensive.
Nice thing about Park tools is if you break it, they'll send you a new one. My chain tool fractured. Emailed a photo, they mailed me another.
#61
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No. Get a Park chain tool, and a bunch of Master links (kmc or other brand). That saves you having to form the Campy pin. You're going 12 speed? Not sure how that works with the link
https://www.merlincycles.com/kmc-mis...eed-95294.html
Park tool to break the chain to get the right length.
You may want to get a tool for opening the quick link - mine is Park. It's not expensive.
Nice thing about Park tools is if you break it, they'll send you a new one. My chain tool fractured. Emailed a photo, they mailed me another.
https://www.merlincycles.com/kmc-mis...eed-95294.html
Park tool to break the chain to get the right length.
You may want to get a tool for opening the quick link - mine is Park. It's not expensive.
Nice thing about Park tools is if you break it, they'll send you a new one. My chain tool fractured. Emailed a photo, they mailed me another.
#62
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I wrench for a couple of local shops, ended up building the Campagnolo equipped customs for several shops because they didn't have any experience with Campagnolo.
A few of tips: Put a light coating of grease in the cups prior to inserting the chainset. Don't forget to install the spring clip as this is what locates the chainset in the proper position. It may take a little light pressure pushing the chainset in to get the clip to seat properly.
A few of tips: Put a light coating of grease in the cups prior to inserting the chainset. Don't forget to install the spring clip as this is what locates the chainset in the proper position. It may take a little light pressure pushing the chainset in to get the clip to seat properly.
All my Ultra Torque cups have come with some grease already in them. Do you recommend adding more?
Did you say you were in China? Just curious...
#63
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Is there anything really so specific about Campagnolo that another experienced shop mechanic couldn't figure it out? Genuine question.
All my Ultra Torque cups have come with some grease already in them. Do you recommend adding more?
Did you say you were in China? Just curious...
All my Ultra Torque cups have come with some grease already in them. Do you recommend adding more?
Did you say you were in China? Just curious...
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As far as Campagnolo specific items, no, there shouldn't be an issue if the experience shop mechanics would READ Campagnolo's instructions. Too many of them know better, and know that all these systems work pretty much the same way so they all should setup the same way. For the shops I build for they have had enough issues with their "experienced" mechanics building or adjusting Campagnolo that they want someone who knows the systems to set them up. I've watched a shop mechanic spend 1/2 hour messing up a rear derailleur because they kept trying to set it up like a Shimano system. Same mechanic was amazed that I took his mess and had that crappy, worthless Campagnolo system shifting flawlessly in less than 5 minutes.
#65
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do above items I choosed be right for cp sr 12s install?
is there any ut-cn300 replacement to tear apart the 12 speed chain ?
for example topeak or park tool on chainreactioncycles.com because I want to buy them together and ship out to me.
could you recommend grease used to install cp sr 12s on dogma f10 on chainreactioncycles.com ? thanx.
#66
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Thread Starter
Sorry, hit post before I was done answering.
All Campagnolo chainsets have the axle attached, and use the same chainset whether it is an English or Italian or a press-fit bottom bracket. All you need is the correct bottom bracket, a long 10mm hex, the Campag bottom bracket tool, and some 222 (purple) Locktite and you should be set to install it.
Post some pictures when you're done.
All Campagnolo chainsets have the axle attached, and use the same chainset whether it is an English or Italian or a press-fit bottom bracket. All you need is the correct bottom bracket, a long 10mm hex, the Campag bottom bracket tool, and some 222 (purple) Locktite and you should be set to install it.
Post some pictures when you're done.
#68
Senior Member
It looks like you got it done. It is one thing to do a single component yourself, but I find it another thing to build up an entire bike. There is always that one thing you don't know that will screw it up entirely. You still need to cut the steerer tube, but don't do that yourself. As has already been made clear in the posts you need some precision to cut carbon correctly.
I was in Shanghai this summer, my first time in China, and let's just say I was intimidated by the thought of riding there. And then there was the heat index of 116F. I'd step outside the hotel and start sweating.
Nice ride!
I was in Shanghai this summer, my first time in China, and let's just say I was intimidated by the thought of riding there. And then there was the heat index of 116F. I'd step outside the hotel and start sweating.
Nice ride!
#69
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Thread Starter
It looks like you got it done. It is one thing to do a single component yourself, but I find it another thing to build up an entire bike. There is always that one thing you don't know that will screw it up entirely. You still need to cut the steerer tube, but don't do that yourself. As has already been made clear in the posts you need some precision to cut carbon correctly.
I was in Shanghai this summer, my first time in China, and let's just say I was intimidated by the thought of riding there. And then there was the heat index of 116F. I'd step outside the hotel and start sweating.
Nice ride!
I was in Shanghai this summer, my first time in China, and let's just say I was intimidated by the thought of riding there. And then there was the heat index of 116F. I'd step outside the hotel and start sweating.
Nice ride!
PS: what's thought of Shanghai riding?
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