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Pinarello F10 and Super Record 12 question

Old 04-26-19, 11:35 PM
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cycling2012
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Pinarello F10 and Super Record 12 question

Hi,my frame is pinarello dogma f10,and if I want to use super record 12 speed mechanical complete groupset and Bora ultra 35 vim brake,what size bb and axis should I use? Bb Italia UT 70mm super record?
Complete sr12s groupset included bb italia super record 12s ut 70mm? Where is axis? Newbie here.

I want to build f10 myself......

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Old 04-26-19, 11:37 PM
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Where to find build f10 sr12s video?
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Old 04-26-19, 11:41 PM
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that's a very nice frame .u might want to think about letting the lbs install the bottom bracket .then you can install all the other parts
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Old 04-27-19, 12:18 AM
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Originally Posted by ridingfool View Post
that's a very nice frame .u might want to think about letting the lbs install the bottom bracket .then you can install all the other parts
Install by my self is not easy?
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Old 04-27-19, 06:24 AM
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If the BB shell is not already faced, have the shop do that for you as the tool is expensive and you won't use it more than once or twice for yourself. Installing the cups and crank is easy once you are past that. The UT cups just screw in and the cranks have one bolt. Yes, there are details and procedures to follow but they aren't hard. You need an extra long 10mm hex wrench and the cup tool and a 3/8" drive socket wrench/torque wrench to drive them both. I did an UltraTorque install a few months ago on my bike and had no trouble at all.
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Old 04-27-19, 06:34 AM
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Originally Posted by cycling2012 View Post
Install by my self is not easy?
Takes time and tools:

-(Good) Torx keys
-Hex keys
-Campagnolo BB cup tool (UT-BB130)
-Torque wrenchew, both a low-range (2-20Nm, for all the miscellaneous bits) and a mid-range (30-60Nm, for the BB cups and UT crank bolt--yes that bolt really is supposed to be 40-60Nm).
-The above mentioned long-reach 10mm allen (UT-BB110 for example)
-Cable/housing cutter, for mechanical groups
-Cable end caps
-Carbon assembly paste
-Setting brakes are easier with a 3rd hand brake tool, but not necessary
-Chain breaker....also a master link to put it back together.
-Steerer tube cutting jig and saw.

Takes time. Campagnolo is nice, because all parts in retail packaging generally come with useful install manuals that tell you what you need to know. With carbon fiber ALWAYS READ AND RESPECT torque values AND USE A TORQUE WRENCH. Sorry for the shouting, but if you're new at this you will destroy expensive parts if you don't.

Which...for all that you're looking at several hundred USD for this project in tools you may never use again (cable cutters and a steer tube jig, cutting blade, BB cup tool). May well be cheaper to have a shop do it, if you have a good relationship.

Last edited by Marcus_Ti; 04-27-19 at 06:41 AM.
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Old 04-27-19, 08:32 AM
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Originally Posted by cycling2012 View Post
Hi,my frame is pinarello dogma f10,and if I want to use super record 12 speed mechanical complete groupset and Bora ultra 35 vim brake,what size bb and axis should I use? Bb Italia UT 70mm super record?
Complete sr12s groupset included bb italia super record 12s ut 70mm? Where is axis? Newbie here.
According to Pinarello's website the frame has an Italian threaded bottom bracket, so a BB Italia UT 70mm super record would be the right one.
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Old 04-27-19, 08:39 AM
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Sorry, hit post before I was done answering.

All Campagnolo chainsets have the axle attached, and use the same chainset whether it is an English or Italian or a press-fit bottom bracket. All you need is the correct bottom bracket, a long 10mm hex, the Campag bottom bracket tool, and some 222 (purple) Locktite and you should be set to install it.

Post some pictures when you're done.
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Old 04-28-19, 05:46 AM
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Originally Posted by zacster View Post
If the BB shell is not already faced, have the shop do that for you as the tool is expensive and you won't use it more than once or twice for yourself. Installing the cups and crank is easy once you are past that. The UT cups just screw in and the cranks have one bolt. Yes, there are details and procedures to follow but they aren't hard. You need an extra long 10mm hex wrench and the cup tool and a 3/8" drive socket wrench/torque wrench to drive them both. I did an UltraTorque install a few months ago on my bike and had no trouble at all.
I agree with the comment but it looks like the shell was faced at least from what I can tell in the picture but only the op would know ?
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Old 04-28-19, 06:05 AM
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I am rebuilding a road bike that I have owned since it was new in 1992. This is the first time I have done this. When tearing it down to the frame I had the LBS remove the BB and the headset. I could not see buying the tools needed for that as they would most likely be used only once, maybe twice. I stripped the paint and had the bike powder coated. Once that was done, I had the LBS install the new BB and headset. The headset was difficult to find the right size with the correct crown race. I realize your bike is considerably newer and the parts are probably easy to attain. The cost of the tools is still a factor.
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Old 04-28-19, 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by delbiker1 View Post
The cost of the tools is still a factor.
The only specialty tool needed is the cup tool and that isn't actually all that expensive as it is used with a 3/8" drive ratchet wrench. I bought all the tools when I installed my UT crank/BB, including the bearing extractor, something I'll likely never use again. The 3/8" drive long arm ratchet comes in handy for a lot of things, the torque wrench is always useful, but the specialty stuff for Campy is not. I don't regret buying them though, and since I bought the extractor used I can probably sell it for the same cost, as can the next guy, and the next, etc...

If the OP lives in the NYC area I'd be willing to help.
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Old 04-28-19, 05:34 PM
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Originally Posted by zacster View Post
The only specialty tool needed is the cup tool and that isn't actually all that expensive as it is used with a 3/8" drive ratchet wrench. I bought all the tools when I installed my UT crank/BB, including the bearing extractor, something I'll likely never use again. The 3/8" drive long arm ratchet comes in handy for a lot of things, the torque wrench is always useful, but the specialty stuff for Campy is not. I don't regret buying them though, and since I bought the extractor used I can probably sell it for the same cost, as can the next guy, and the next, etc...

If the OP lives in the NYC area I'd be willing to help.
The cup tool is likely to be used again, at least if you work on Shimano BB80, BB5700, XT BB70, BB51, Chris King, FSA MegaExo, Hope, SRAM/Truvativ GXP, Race Face X-type, or Surly. Obviously Campagnolo is losing their touch with special tools.
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Old 04-28-19, 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by RGMN View Post
The cup tool is likely to be used again, at least if you work on Shimano BB80, BB5700, XT BB70, BB51, Chris King, FSA MegaExo, Hope, SRAM/Truvativ GXP, Race Face X-type, or Surly. Obviously Campagnolo is losing their touch with special tools.
Yes, luckily the FSA MegaExo that came off the bike was the same tool. I didn't know that it worked with so many different cups. That bearing extractor is expensive and not much use otherwise. Worked like a charm though. Maybe at some point I'll want to change the bearings again, but that could be a long time out, and I'm getting pretty old and grumpy.
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Old 04-28-19, 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by zacster View Post
The only specialty tool needed is the cup tool and that isn't actually all that expensive as it is used with a 3/8" drive ratchet wrench. I bought all the tools when I installed my UT crank/BB, including the bearing extractor, something I'll likely never use again. The 3/8" drive long arm ratchet comes in handy for a lot of things, the torque wrench is always useful, but the specialty stuff for Campy is not. I don't regret buying them though, and since I bought the extractor used I can probably sell it for the same cost, as can the next guy, and the next, etc...

If the OP lives in the NYC area I'd be willing to help.
thanx a lot I am not in the NYC.
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Old 05-19-19, 09:56 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by zacster View Post
If the BB shell is not already faced, have the shop do that for you as the tool is expensive and you won't use it more than once or twice for yourself. Installing the cups and crank is easy once you are past that. The UT cups just screw in and the cranks have one bolt. Yes, there are details and procedures to follow but they aren't hard. You need an extra long 10mm hex wrench and the cup tool and a 3/8" drive socket wrench/torque wrench to drive them both. I did an UltraTorque install a few months ago on my bike and had no trouble at all.
could you take pics of the tools you mentioned?
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Old 05-19-19, 10:19 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Marcus_Ti View Post
Takes time and tools:

-(Good) Torx keys
-Hex keys
-Campagnolo BB cup tool (UT-BB130)
-Torque wrenchew, both a low-range (2-20Nm, for all the miscellaneous bits) and a mid-range (30-60Nm, for the BB cups and UT crank bolt--yes that bolt really is supposed to be 40-60Nm).
-The above mentioned long-reach 10mm allen (UT-BB110 for example)
-Cable/housing cutter, for mechanical groups
-Cable end caps
-Carbon assembly paste
-Setting brakes are easier with a 3rd hand brake tool, but not necessary
-Chain breaker....also a master link to put it back together.
-Steerer tube cutting jig and saw.

Takes time. Campagnolo is nice, because all parts in retail packaging generally come with useful install manuals that tell you what you need to know. With carbon fiber ALWAYS READ AND RESPECT torque values AND USE A TORQUE WRENCH. Sorry for the shouting, but if you're new at this you will destroy expensive parts if you don't.

Which...for all that you're looking at several hundred USD for this project in tools you may never use again (cable cutters and a steer tube jig, cutting blade, BB cup tool). May well be cheaper to have a shop do it, if you have a good relationship.
https://www.bike-discount.de/en/buy/...-4-80nm-107769

Is this okay for f10 sr12 Torque wrench?
Seatpost , front fork,bb, these 3 locations, what's grease to use accordingly?
Other locations need to be used grease when building road bike?

Last edited by cycling2012; 05-19-19 at 04:41 PM.
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Old 05-19-19, 01:11 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by cycling2012 View Post
could you take pics of the tools you mentioned?
This is the only special tool you'll need, all the others are generic. You can't see it but it is a 3/8" drive. Get a 3/8" drive 10mm long reach allen wrench and you're all set.

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Old 05-19-19, 04:20 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Marcus_Ti View Post
Takes time and tools:

-(Good) Torx keys
-Hex keys
-Campagnolo BB cup tool (UT-BB130)
-Torque wrenchew, both a low-range (2-20Nm, for all the miscellaneous bits) and a mid-range (30-60Nm, for the BB cups and UT crank bolt--yes that bolt really is supposed to be 40-60Nm).
-The above mentioned long-reach 10mm allen (UT-BB110 for example)
-Cable/housing cutter, for mechanical groups
-Cable end caps
-Carbon assembly paste
-Setting brakes are easier with a 3rd hand brake tool, but not necessary
-Chain breaker....also a master link to put it back together.
-Steerer tube cutting jig and saw.

Takes time. Campagnolo is nice, because all parts in retail packaging generally come with useful install manuals that tell you what you need to know. With carbon fiber ALWAYS READ AND RESPECT torque values AND USE A TORQUE WRENCH. Sorry for the shouting, but if you're new at this you will destroy expensive parts if you don't.

Which...for all that you're looking at several hundred USD for this project in tools you may never use again (cable cutters and a steer tube jig, cutting blade, BB cup tool). May well be cheaper to have a shop do it, if you have a good relationship.
Very detailed and helpful, thanks a lot
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Old 05-19-19, 04:22 PM
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Originally Posted by zacster View Post
This is the only special tool you'll need, all the others are generic. You can't see it but it is a 3/8" drive. Get a 3/8" drive 10mm long reach allen wrench and you're all set.

This tool,in future will I need it? For example,1 or 2 years after, use it to uninstall bb and lubricate.
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Old 05-19-19, 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by cycling2012 View Post
This tool,in future will I need it? For example,1 or 2 years after, use it to uninstall bb and lubricate.
No, you won't need it for that for two reasons. Number one, the bearings sit on the crank arms and these can be removed without removing the cups. Number two, you won't lubricate the cartridges anyway, you'll more likely replace them. And a third thing too, they won't need lubrication as they are sealed and should last a very long time.

I only bought it because not only does my Ultra-torque BB need it for installation, it was the same tool that could remove my FSA BB cups. If they had two different tools I'd have had a bike shop just do it. Plus it was only $25.

Last edited by zacster; 05-19-19 at 04:57 PM.
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Old 05-19-19, 08:38 PM
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what is "the cartridges " ?
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Old 05-19-19, 08:39 PM
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Originally Posted by zacster View Post
No, you won't need it for that for two reasons. Number one, the bearings sit on the crank arms and these can be removed without removing the cups. Number two, you won't lubricate the cartridges anyway, you'll more likely replace them. And a third thing too, they won't need lubrication as they are sealed and should last a very long time.

I only bought it because not only does my Ultra-torque BB need it for installation, it was the same tool that could remove my FSA BB cups. If they had two different tools I'd have had a bike shop just do it. Plus it was only $25.
what is "the cartridges " ?
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Old 05-20-19, 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by cycling2012 View Post
what is "the cartridges " ?
The bearings are in a cartridge.
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Old 06-06-19, 02:02 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Marcus_Ti View Post
Takes time and tools:

-(Good) Torx keys
-Hex keys
-Campagnolo BB cup tool (UT-BB130)
-Torque wrenchew, both a low-range (2-20Nm, for all the miscellaneous bits) and a mid-range (30-60Nm, for the BB cups and UT crank bolt--yes that bolt really is supposed to be 40-60Nm).
-The above mentioned long-reach 10mm allen (UT-BB110 for example)
-Cable/housing cutter, for mechanical groups
-Cable end caps
-Carbon assembly paste
-Setting brakes are easier with a 3rd hand brake tool, but not necessary
-Chain breaker....also a master link to put it back together.
-Steerer tube cutting jig and saw.

Takes time. Campagnolo is nice, because all parts in retail packaging generally come with useful install manuals that tell you what you need to know. With carbon fiber ALWAYS READ AND RESPECT torque values AND USE A TORQUE WRENCH. Sorry for the shouting, but if you're new at this you will destroy expensive parts if you don't.

Which...for all that you're looking at several hundred USD for this project in tools you may never use again (cable cutters and a steer tube jig, cutting blade, BB cup tool). May well be cheaper to have a shop do it, if you have a good relationship.
Originally Posted by RGMN View Post
Sorry, hit post before I was done answering.

All Campagnolo chainsets have the axle attached, and use the same chainset whether it is an English or Italian or a press-fit bottom bracket. All you need is the correct bottom bracket, a long 10mm hex, the Campag bottom bracket tool, and some 222 (purple) Locktite and you should be set to install it.

Post some pictures when you're done.
Originally Posted by delbiker1 View Post
I am rebuilding a road bike that I have owned since it was new in 1992. This is the first time I have done this. When tearing it down to the frame I had the LBS remove the BB and the headset. I could not see buying the tools needed for that as they would most likely be used only once, maybe twice. I stripped the paint and had the bike powder coated. Once that was done, I had the LBS install the new BB and headset. The headset was difficult to find the right size with the correct crown race. I realize your bike is considerably newer and the parts are probably easy to attain. The cost of the tools is still a factor.
Originally Posted by zacster View Post
The only specialty tool needed is the cup tool and that isn't actually all that expensive as it is used with a 3/8" drive ratchet wrench. I bought all the tools when I installed my UT crank/BB, including the bearing extractor, something I'll likely never use again. The 3/8" drive long arm ratchet comes in handy for a lot of things, the torque wrench is always useful, but the specialty stuff for Campy is not. I don't regret buying them though, and since I bought the extractor used I can probably sell it for the same cost, as can the next guy, and the next, etc...

If the OP lives in the NYC area I'd be willing to help.
Originally Posted by zacster View Post
This is the only special tool you'll need, all the others are generic. You can't see it but it is a 3/8" drive. Get a 3/8" drive 10mm long reach allen wrench and you're all set.



hi guys
I just bought pinarello dogma f10 vim,super record 12 speed vim,bora ultra 50 clincher vim.
I am ready for other items like saddle ,pedals ,handlebar and stem etc.
I just talking to my local bike store which is Merida bike store,I bought 3 bikes from there.
The mechanic is a 45-50 years old guy,I think his experience is good.But he only build Merida bikes,maybe there is no Campagnolo brand groupset.but the groupset is common.
I told him about my groupset of CP ,and ask him for below items,I told him that if he don't have them,I can get them on internet.
UT-BB130 3/8" drive long arm ratchet Campagnolo Ultra Torque UT-BB110 Tool.
He gave me his tools pics as below and also other tools he didn't take pics for all.the first item is for cutting front fork?
so my question is that does his tools okay for "UT-BB130 3/8" drive long arm ratchet Campagnolo Ultra Torque UT-BB110 Tool." ?? will I need 12 speed of cp sr 12s chain cutter?

if not ,I will buy them on internet.......

I trust him and his store just near my home for 1km.
my merida road bike is often maintained by him.
there is other bike store which is away from my home 7-8 kilometers.if I build my bike at that store,every time my bike got some problem I will take the bike to there 7 km away and the mechanic is too young maybe just 20-25 years old,but that store is shimano authorized store,tools are many......



Last edited by cycling2012; 06-06-19 at 02:21 AM.
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Old 06-06-19, 05:30 AM
  #25  
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That red tool is a tubing cutter for metal tubing. Your fork steer tube is carbon fiber. Do NOT cut your fork steer tube with a tubing cutter, you will ruin it

Last edited by alcjphil; 06-06-19 at 07:59 AM.
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