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DS Cone Removal

Old 05-16-19, 08:55 PM
  #1  
CaptMike
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DS Cone Removal

I just removed the cassette, cleaned, then re-greased the bearings in my rear Shimano hub. Then decided to re-watch a couple of videos on the subject. They all said make sure you take the nut and cone off the NDS. I took them off the DS. I took care to count the number of threads sticking out past the lock nut, and matched that when I re-assembled. Is it that big of a deal to undo the DS? I haven't had the wheel back on the bike yet, as I am doing some other projects with it. All seems well. Thank you.
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Old 05-16-19, 09:08 PM
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It's just more convenient to disassemble a rear axle from the non-drive side but there is no damage from undoing the DS end. If you leave one side (either side) assembled, the spacing on reassembly will automatically correct. You won't have to count threads but for future reference the axle protrusion is normally 5.5 mm on each side.
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Old 05-16-19, 09:34 PM
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Thank you for that, HillRider. Does that go for the front wheel, also?
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Old 05-17-19, 06:33 AM
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Originally Posted by CaptMike View Post
Thank you for that, HillRider. Does that go for the front wheel, also?
Front wheels are symmetrical so it doesn't matter which side you disassemble. And, yes, the axle protrusion is the same as the rear.
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Old 05-17-19, 06:55 AM
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The real issue with taking the axle out by removing the DS cone/lock nut is that on reassembly the DS cone can be inaccessible, surrounded by the freehub body end. In this case how do you insure that the DS cone and lock nut are fully tightened against each other, with the cone wrench not reaching the DS cone? By working through the NDS you retain access to the NDS cone during the final bearing adjustments. Andy
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Old 05-17-19, 07:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Andrew R Stewart View Post
The real issue with taking the axle out by removing the DS cone/lock nut is that on reassembly the DS cone can be inaccessible, surrounded by the freehub body end. In this case how do you insure that the DS cone and lock nut are fully tightened against each other, with the cone wrench not reaching the DS cone? By working through the NDS you retain access to the NDS cone during the final bearing adjustments. Andy
Excellent point and I should have caught it. The driveside cone flats are usually buried inside the freehub body and can't be reached with a cone wrench. Also, you usually can't turn the axle around 180 either since the dust cover/seals aren't the same on both ends.

So, to the OP: With the axle removed from the hub, reassemble the driveside cone and locknut being sure to adjust for the correct axle protrusion. Then disassemble the non-drive side locknut, spacers and cone, reinstall the axle in the hub and reassemble and adjust from the non-drive side. And thank Andy for the correction.
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Old 05-17-19, 08:57 AM
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AN other problem is if you don't get the right side tight enough progression will over tighten the bearings as you ride. I always work from the left side, front or rear.
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Old 05-19-19, 07:37 PM
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I did as you said, HillRider, and took it apart, and did it the right way. Thank you guys for the information.
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