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What to do if unhappy paint job?

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What to do if unhappy paint job?

Old 05-17-19, 04:52 AM
  #1  
Teamprovicycle
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What to do if unhappy paint job?

I just wanted a nice flat black pain on my hybrid silly bike build . I got some Montana tarblack stuff , thought it would be cool , it was but it rubs off doesn't stick well and feels sticky . So I tried a matte clear coat , now it turned slightly green .

Where do I go from here , do I sand away , and repaint . What home Depot spray paint should I try . This is a simple cheap build I'm not getting it done , I'm a spray and pray !!!!
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Old 05-17-19, 05:01 AM
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you got some really good spray paint kinda surprised it comes off, might just need a light sanding so it sticks?
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Old 05-17-19, 05:28 AM
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Is everything off of the frame?

Strip down to bare metal. Edited to remove Sand
If it is a steel frame, then typical rattle can primer. 2 coats and let dry. If aluminum, I'd suggest an aluminum primer as it adheres better.
Get some 600 grit sandpaper and lightly scuff the primer.
Respray with as good of a flat black paint as you can find.

Flat paints do tend to buff out and get shiny. Just their nature.

When you do all of this, also paint some other objects so that if you have to do a matte clear on it you have a test piece.

FWIW, I have top quality spray guns and materials on hand so my paint jobs tend toward optimum quality.

Last edited by bakerjw; 05-17-19 at 07:24 AM.
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Old 05-17-19, 05:37 AM
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did some reading on the tar black since i didn't recognize that specific montana line. could it be because it's a bitumen based paint, might not have same adherence as typical cans.
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Old 05-17-19, 05:56 AM
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I thought Montana spray paint was one of those geared toward graffiti or mural "artists" -
Beautiful colors, for sure, but I'd question durability on something meant to be handled, like a bike frame.
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Old 05-17-19, 06:14 AM
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Originally Posted by mixteup View Post
I thought Montana spray paint was one of those geared toward graffiti or mural "artists" -
Beautiful colors, for sure, but I'd question durability on something meant to be handled, like a bike frame.
i tend to dabble in graffitti and have sprayed bikes with graffiti cans in my case molotow. the thing about graff paint is usually much higher pigment ratios and usually more durable adherence and color. after all 95% of their customers are still doing illegal painting on anything and anywhere. idea is to make sure it will stick, so it will be hard to remove and to keep the colors true without fading.

i honesty think it's the fact that this particular blend is a bitumen base, that is also why it turned green, it reacts differently with other paints.
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Old 05-17-19, 07:01 AM
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'Sanding' is probably the worst way to remove paint. Media blasting (if you know someone or a business that can do this cheaply) or chemical paint stripper (toxic AF but it works) will get you down to bare metal.

Tremclad or other 'rust paints' are widely available in many colours and bond well to bare steel.
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Old 05-17-19, 07:07 AM
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Originally Posted by phile View Post
i tend to dabble in graffitti and have sprayed bikes with graffiti cans in my case molotow. the thing about graff paint is usually much higher pigment ratios and usually more durable adherence and color. after all 95% of their customers are still doing illegal painting on anything and anywhere. idea is to make sure it will stick, so it will be hard to remove and to keep the colors true without fading.

i honesty think it's the fact that this particular blend is a bitumen base, that is also why it turned green, it reacts differently with other paints.
This is interesting - You've actually had good results on a bike frame with that kind of paint ?
As I said, the colors are outstanding with those paints, but I always assumed they were meant for a rough, porous surface, like a building wall (Although a railway car might not be considered porous), and that they might not hold up on something smooth and handled often, like a bike.
Do the paints have any sheen to them, or would they need a clear coat for gloss?
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Old 05-17-19, 07:19 AM
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Does help to know what your paint is intended for before you use it. This paint has nothing that you'd want for a bike. It never was intended to be a durable surface. It's for art.
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Old 05-17-19, 07:55 AM
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Originally Posted by mixteup View Post
This is interesting - You've actually had good results on a bike frame with that kind of paint ?
As I said, the colors are outstanding with those paints, but I always assumed they were meant for a rough, porous surface, like a building wall (Although a railway car might not be considered porous), and that they might not hold up on something smooth and handled often, like a bike.
Do the paints have any sheen to them, or would they need a clear coat for gloss?
i used some flat black to touch up some parts on my grocery bike and almost 2 years later no signs of fade or rubbing off. this while riding in all manners of condition pretty much daily until 2 and a half months ago when i got a road bike.

the whole thing about graffiti paints is it needs to stick to anything and everything and have the best possible colors not just porous surfaces. Specially considering some of the spots that give you the most rep are all smooth surfaces (train cars, truck cabs, highway direction signs, all either smooth metal or other smooth composite material.) As for the sheen they usually do not have any sheen it's usually flat colors, but there are some gloss lines out there if i remember correctly. there is availability of both matte and gloss clearcoats from all the major brands.
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Old 05-17-19, 08:01 AM
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Sand it /strip it, & start over..
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Old 05-17-19, 08:31 AM
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Fortunately, paint stripper takes rattlecan paint right off. Don't ask me how I know this, but I have lots of experience trying to fix botched rattlecan paint jobs.

I fear that sanding would only "smear" the paint, and cause a lot of unnecessary work and mess.
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Old 05-17-19, 09:54 AM
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Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
Sand it /strip it, & start over..
+1

Anihilate it with Nitromors paint stripper and start over. I've had good results lately with HOLTS auto paints but I don't know if you want to pay up any more for a budget build.

Lidl's BAUFIX paints are quite good, they sell clear lacquer too for the top coat. They're quite durable but have a limited selection of colours and are quite thin so require extra care during aplication. Cheap and efficient. I had mine for £3 per can on sale.

But they take foreveeeeer to dry so yh, take extra care not to touch the paint job for like 2 days!

Good luck, Kret
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Old 05-17-19, 12:53 PM
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As pointed out above, Montana paints are for graffiti on concrete. They claim an "ultimate urban street calligraphy experience". Tarblack is bitumen based and probably never really drys. It certainly is not a good paint for bikes.

Use paint products formulated for automotive or bike use. Strip all the crud that's on there now down to metal (stripper and a wire brush, or media blast). Mask threads and interference fits. Then prime, basecoat, and clearcoat, using the times between coats as recommended. You can probably wet-sand some coats (600 grit wet-dry paper). Wipe down thoroughly before every next coat.

Last edited by WizardOfBoz; 05-17-19 at 02:56 PM.
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Old 05-17-19, 05:38 PM
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its a felt full aluminum frame yes i see the tarblack was a bad choice but it looked so cool lolol , if use a paint stripper how should i do it , outside in the yard over a kiddy pool , i have never done this in my life ????

Last edited by Teamprovicycle; 05-17-19 at 05:48 PM.
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Old 05-17-19, 05:51 PM
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At minimum you would want eye protection, good rubber gloves, and a wire brush. I like the aerosol stuff, it's similar to oven cleaner, let it foam up for 15 minutes or so, until the paint has lifted, then wipe the paint off with paper towels, in sheets hopefully. Then the use wire brush for nooks and crannies. Needless to say, this stuff will burn the crap out of your skin, about as easily as oven cleaner would, so watch out.

This is the stuff they have at the local Wallyworld. One can might do it, I'd get two to be safe.



I've heard of some people putting plastic wrap over the stripper, to let it work better as it's foaming away. I tried this, but only made a mess, and didn't seem to help the paint stripping process much.

Last edited by Lemond1985; 05-17-19 at 05:58 PM.
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Old 05-18-19, 12:37 AM
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You might not need stripper at all. Since you said this stuff hasn't really dried properly at all, I'd try to scrape it off with a kitchen steel wool ball dipped in white spirit. Stripper might be overkill.

I'd try it before buying stripper.

Kret
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Old 05-18-19, 01:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Teamprovicycle View Post
What to do if unhappy paint job?
Fire the painter.
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Old 05-18-19, 02:14 AM
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Originally Posted by AnkleWork View Post
Fire the painter.
Best reply of this thread
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Old 05-23-19, 11:40 AM
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Bitumen is tar, no wonder it didn't dry. It's used in roads surfaces and roofing... Probably meant for roof and driveway patches. I would see if there's a specific product that will make removing it easier. That being said, any of those goof off, goo gone, citrus type strippers should work.
I would use a large pore 3m pad so it doesn't get gunked up to quickly.
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