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really cheap 1x crank

Old 05-19-19, 11:26 AM
  #1  
HerrKaLeun
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really cheap 1x crank

For a cheap 1x conversion that is in need of a new crank I need a really cheap 1x crank for a cheap 1x10 or 1x11 conversion. I'm looking at 32-38T chainrings (undecided on exact tooth count yet)

an example is on this diamondback bike. I assume it has a stamped steel chainring riveted to the crank with square taper interface. It uses the chainguard to keep the ring on (to not use the more expensive NW).

I know there are tons "better" 1x cranks with NW rings etc... and one also could use a 2x or 3x crank. But I'm looking for something really cheap similar to what Diamondback et al would use (riveted stamped ring etc.)..

Square taper is probably cheaper, but external BB also would work.

I realize what I'm willing to pay won't give me brand name (and the diamond back bike also doesn't have a brand name crank). I just need one that works for a hybrid bike. There are some ebay knockff systems like this one.

Any pointers would be appreciated.

(please no discussion on how a 2x or 3x would be better...)
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Old 05-19-19, 11:33 AM
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Origin 8?
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Old 05-20-19, 07:17 PM
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i would just get a sram gxp threaded bb and a used crank off ebay , i recently made a hack 1x with an old gxp rival crank and i used the inner chain ring mounted on the out side with spacers , and uses the old from mech to hold the chain in place , rather than go out and buy a 800 1x force plenty of used cranks on ebay under 50 bucks , i wouldn't waste time with square taper cranks , especially if its a cart , its basically the same as external just way worse ..
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Old 05-21-19, 10:56 AM
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I have a SS I'm parting out...I believe I have a converted crank with a 32t, spaced out freehub, Tange switchblade fork, etc.....
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Old 05-22-19, 08:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Retro Grouch View Post
Origin 8?
they seem pricey, over $60. that is more than the ones on the Diamondback bikes are.

Originally Posted by Teamprovicycle View Post
i would just get a sram gxp threaded bb and a used crank off ebay , i recently made a hack 1x with an old gxp rival crank and i used the inner chain ring mounted on the out side with spacers , and uses the old from mech to hold the chain in place , rather than go out and buy a 800 1x force plenty of used cranks on ebay under 50 bucks , i wouldn't waste time with square taper cranks , especially if its a cart , its basically the same as external just way worse ..
If i go to new BB, i'd go to external. So the GXP idea is sound. But i prefer the 24mm shimano et al system. Is just better and BB are cheaper (and probably better).
My spare idea is to get a cheaper shimano 2x crank and use, but then i need an expensive ring. Maybe i end up with one of those Chines IXF cranks.
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Old 05-22-19, 11:02 PM
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shimano hollow tech 2 are about 25 gxp are 30 usd .

id just start with the crank , depending on your budget , then you can choose your BB.

if your bike has a front mech you can use that to keep the chain on any ring , usually , back it up with some chain guides , until you can find an affordable true 1x chain ring ..
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Old 05-22-19, 11:04 PM
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I say just get a nx crankset and a gxp bottom bracket.
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Old 05-23-19, 05:48 AM
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Under $25 cheap enough? :
Oops - Just saw it's for 1/8" chain - NG for you - Sorry

https://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Alloy...8-8&th=1&psc=1
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Old 05-24-19, 09:41 PM
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Something like this. But with about 34T.

The NX solution is outside the budget. It's basically a sort of flip situation. I got an inexpensive hybrid frame, have some spare parts and take-offs, and just buy the few missing parts. Then I sell the bike..... so the crank needs to be good enough, but not fancy.
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Old 05-25-19, 11:42 AM
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Arm swaged to the chain ring is a feature of really cheap crank arm sets..
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Old 05-25-19, 12:55 PM
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Cheapest route I can imagine is to keep the existing crank and lock the FD over the ring of your choice. From there, removing unused rings or switching parts entails additional effort and cost.
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Old 05-25-19, 01:23 PM
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I'm quite enamored by 1x systems for simplification of drive trains and have converted 2x and 3x cranks a number of times. I don't have a problem with chain drop after removing the FD even with 8speed cassettes.

This is a 3x to 1x8 using a 42T chainring in the middle position. The bash guard is the original large ring ground down and the inner granny ring is there for a manual shift bailout if I need it. This meant no added washers or adjustments.




This is an old 2x5 ten speed converted to a SS. I just took the old school chrome chain guard and large ring off.




An 84 Diamondback Ridgerunner 3x7 converted to 1x7. Again just removing the outer and inner chainrings. You have to add washers to the remaining chainring to make up for the lost width from the outer one when bolting to the crank arm.



In this case it actually became a negative cost, or cost savings, as I used the now unneeded nice Suntour friction thumb shifter for the FD on my next build which was also a 1x. Note no FD's or chain guides. This is because I usually use the middle chainring position which is designed to run up and down the whole rear cassette without cross chaining. If you use the large or low chainring the chainline may cause the chain to drop.

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Old 05-25-19, 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Happy Feet View Post
I'm quite enamored by 1x systems for simplification of drive trains and have converted 2x and 3x cranks a number of times. I don't have a problem with chain drop after removing the FD even with 8speed cassettes.

This is a 3x to 1x8 using a 42T chainring in the middle position. The bash guard is the original large ring ground down and the inner granny ring is there for a manual shift bailout if I need it. This meant no added washers or adjustments.




This is an old 2x5 ten speed converted to a SS. I just took the old school chrome chain guard and large ring off.




An 84 Diamondback Ridgerunner 3x7 converted to 1x7. Again just removing the outer and inner chainrings. You have to add washers to the remaining chainring to make up for the lost width from the outer one when bolting to the crank arm.



In this case it actually became a negative cost, or cost savings, as I used the now unneeded nice Suntour friction thumb shifter for the FD on my next build which was also a 1x. Note no FD's or chain guides. This is because I usually use the middle chainring position which is designed to run up and down the whole rear cassette without cross chaining. If you use the large or low chainring the chainline may cause the chain to drop.
Grinding that large chainring to look that nice must have been a lot of work.

Coincidentally I picked up an old road crank from the coop. It has a 42T middle ring, which is too large. I may need a 34T, maybe 36T. it looks the lowest available is 39T economically, or for some more money 38T. thsi specific bike only will get a 10-speed RD with a 11-36 cassette. and as a hybrid it need slower gearing than a road bike due to the target audience's fitness etc.

another option is one of the chinese 1x cranks for $65. not sure how good they are. Likely not good for MTB use, but good enough for hybrids.
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Old 05-26-19, 06:08 AM
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I found another contender. Sunrace FCM800 is a square taper crank with NW chainrings. If you look at the specification chart you see the FCM80V is the 34T model and so on. CCR has it for $32. Unfortunately their website doesn't give choices of chainring size. It has removable chainrings (BCD 96mm)
So if that is true to include the ring, it is a good deal. Besides an ebay seller and CRC it doesn't seem widely available.
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Old 05-29-19, 11:17 PM
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i just set up my hack 1x10 speed 36 ring from a sram red set on a sran rival crank , gxp bb , sram gx 10 speed rear mech and thumb shifter , on mavic askium wheels with a 11-36 cassette 15 dollar sram 10 speed chain , love it !!!!
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Old 05-30-19, 07:22 AM
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I ordered one of the IXF ebay cranks with 34T chainring and 24mm BB for $45. Will report back how it works out.

I revisited the old square BB and it felt too coarse anyway. I'm sure the bike will also look better.
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