Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

Anti-seize vs Grease?

Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

Anti-seize vs Grease?

Old 05-23-19, 07:05 AM
  #1  
maartendc
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
maartendc's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 887

Bikes: BMC SLC01, Trek Checkpoint ALR5

Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 534 Post(s)
Liked 23 Times in 19 Posts
Anti-seize vs Grease?

Hi all,

I have just replaced my square taper Bottom bracket from cup and cone style to a Shimano UN55 sealed cartridge type.

Now I was following this RJthebikeguy tutorial:

He puts anti-seize on the threads. I did not have anti-seize, so I used this Polyurea Grease from Park tool (https://www.parktool.com/product/pol...26%20Compounds) that I have been using on all my threads (pedal threads, bottom bracket treads, etc.): Have I been doing this wrong? I see Park Tool also make an anti-seize, so they are clearly not the same thing. Will my threads get seized up if I use a Grease instead of an anti-seize?

Thank you!

maartendc is offline  
Old 05-23-19, 07:12 AM
  #2  
DrIsotope
Non omnino gravis
 
DrIsotope's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: SoCal, USA!
Posts: 8,553

Bikes: Nekobasu, Pandicorn, Lakitu

Mentioned: 119 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4904 Post(s)
Liked 1,727 Times in 956 Posts
In a bicycle application, they're basically interchangeable. Anti-seize is "high solids," while grease has no solids. So in many applications (particularly those in heat) anti-seize will last much longer. But on a bike, doesn't really matter*. I routinely use both.


*maybe if a bike is left out in the weather to sit for years, using one over the other may have a lasting impact. For the typical user, I seriously doubt it.
__________________
DrIsotope is offline  
Likes For DrIsotope:
Old 05-23-19, 07:18 AM
  #3  
frogbiscuit
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Spotsylvania, VA
Posts: 90

Bikes: Specialized Sirrus, Cannondale Catalyst, Diamond Back Extreme TG, Schwinn Mesa Runner with an 88cc 2 stroke engine

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 47 Post(s)
Liked 25 Times in 15 Posts
I agree. Anti-seize has colloidal copper or lead and is especually effective when fastening dissimilar metals. I use it on all threaded surfaces (works great on wheel lug bolts). In bicycle applications, it is such light duty, any sort of grease will work.
frogbiscuit is offline  
Old 05-23-19, 07:29 AM
  #4  
maartendc
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
maartendc's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 887

Bikes: BMC SLC01, Trek Checkpoint ALR5

Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 534 Post(s)
Liked 23 Times in 19 Posts
Originally Posted by frogbiscuit View Post
I agree. Anti-seize has colloidal copper or lead and is especually effective when fastening dissimilar metals. I use it on all threaded surfaces (works great on wheel lug bolts). In bicycle applications, it is such light duty, any sort of grease will work.
Originally Posted by DrIsotope View Post
In a bicycle application, they're basically interchangeable. Anti-seize is "high solids," while grease has no solids. So in many applications (particularly those in heat) anti-seize will last much longer. But on a bike, doesn't really matter*. I routinely use both.


*maybe if a bike is left out in the weather to sit for years, using one over the other may have a lasting impact. For the typical user, I seriously doubt it.
Okay, that is the answer I was hoping for! Thanks guys!
maartendc is offline  
Old 05-23-19, 07:46 AM
  #5  
AlmostTrick
Tortoise Wins by a Hare!
 
AlmostTrick's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Looney Tunes, IL
Posts: 7,397

Bikes: Wabi Special FG, Raleigh Roper, Nashbar AL-1, Miyata One Hundred, '70 Schwinn Lemonator and More!!

Mentioned: 21 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1548 Post(s)
Liked 928 Times in 500 Posts
I too use both and see little difference. But I appreciate a good lube debate so I'm hoping it fires up!
AlmostTrick is offline  
Old 05-23-19, 09:09 AM
  #6  
Bike Gremlin
Mostly harmless ô
 
Bike Gremlin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Novi Sad
Posts: 4,263

Bikes: Custom made on Scott Speedster frame, Custom made on a 1996. steel MTB frame (all but frame changed at least once in the past 20 years).

Mentioned: 19 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1021 Post(s)
Liked 103 Times in 68 Posts
My experience is that anti-seize (as the name says ) provides longer ant seize protection.

If re-applied at least annually, then grease is not too bad either.
Bike Gremlin is offline  
Old 05-23-19, 09:42 AM
  #7  
fietsbob
Banned
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: NW,Oregon Coast
Posts: 43,599

Bikes: 8

Mentioned: 197 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7607 Post(s)
Liked 1,336 Times in 844 Posts
Re; Anti-seize vs Grease?

It's Grease , Plus..
fietsbob is offline  
Old 05-23-19, 09:51 AM
  #8  
Leebo
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: North of Boston
Posts: 5,721

Bikes: Kona Dawg, Surly 1x1, Karate Monkey, Rockhopper, Crosscheck , Burley Runabout,

Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 854 Post(s)
Liked 111 Times in 66 Posts
My choice is anti seize for the bb. Heavy grease will work fine too.
Leebo is offline  
Old 05-23-19, 03:22 PM
  #9  
easyupbug 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 2,240

Bikes: too many sparkly Italians, some sweet Americans and a couple interesting Japanese

Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 436 Post(s)
Liked 357 Times in 268 Posts
All true, but has anyone had to deal with an anti-seized part that seized? I don't need to ask if anyone has had to deal with a greased part that seize (stem, seat post, etc.).
easyupbug is offline  
Old 05-23-19, 05:05 PM
  #10  
Sy Reene
Advocatus Diaboli
 
Sy Reene's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Wherever I am
Posts: 7,958

Bikes: Merlin Cyrene, Nashbar steel CX

Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4278 Post(s)
Liked 1,243 Times in 818 Posts
It's a good question.. some scenarios to consider?
Ti pedals into a (what material are these?) crank's thread?
Alloy Seatpost into a Ti frame?
Ti bolts to secure an alloy stem's faceplate

Isn't the point of anti-seize to avoid galvanic corrosion, not duration or extending time between applications?
Sy Reene is offline  
Old 05-23-19, 06:01 PM
  #11  
canklecat
Me duelen las nalgas
 
canklecat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Texas
Posts: 13,225

Bikes: Centurion Ironman, Trek 5900, Univega Via Carisma, Globe Carmel

Mentioned: 196 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4390 Post(s)
Liked 2,431 Times in 1,579 Posts
Yeah, sometimes I worry about some dissimilar metals cohabitating nicely. My Trek 5900 has the original Ibis titanium threadless stem. I haven't disassembled anything to check it. For fancy stuff I'd probably pony up for anti-seize grease.

On my bikes with aluminum quill stems in steel headsets I just use Phil's green grease, which is probably marine grease. So far, so good.
canklecat is offline  
Old 05-23-19, 06:06 PM
  #12  
jlaw
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Posts: 930

Bikes: 2015 Spec. AWOL Elite, 2007 Spec. Roubaix Elite, 2003 Spec. Big Hit 2, 1998 VooDoo Zobop, 1985 Trek 410, 1984 Trek 620 1985 Trek 620, 1979 Trek 710

Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 369 Post(s)
Liked 138 Times in 85 Posts
I have both. White lithium grease works fine for the purpose.

I don't like the automotive anti-seize that I have because it gets all over things (my fingers, the bike) and is much harder to remove than grease because it has very finely ground solids.
jlaw is offline  
Old 05-23-19, 06:38 PM
  #13  
August West
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Land of Enchantment
Posts: 468

Bikes: Domane SLR7 Project One

Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 152 Post(s)
Liked 172 Times in 105 Posts
Originally Posted by jlaw View Post
I don't like the automotive anti-seize that I have because it gets all over things (my fingers, the bike) and is much harder to remove than grease because it has very finely ground solids.
Ha, I was going to post the same thing. Anti-seize is great but it is compound that has the innate ability to migrate to everything on the bike, in the shop or on you even though you didn't touch anything else beside the part that gets the anti-seize and the tool driving it
August West is offline  
Old 05-23-19, 07:07 PM
  #14  
2manybikes
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 18,102

Bikes: 2 many

Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1255 Post(s)
Liked 305 Times in 155 Posts
Originally Posted by August West View Post
Ha, I was going to post the same thing. Anti-seize is great but it is compound that has the innate ability to migrate to everything on the bike, in the shop or on you even though you didn't touch anything else beside the part that gets the anti-seize and the tool driving it
Same here.
2manybikes is offline  
Old 05-23-19, 07:32 PM
  #15  
elcraft
elcraft
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Greater Boston
Posts: 797
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 137 Post(s)
Liked 89 Times in 64 Posts
I always envisioned anti-seize for things that are disassembled much less frequently, like cartridge BB 's or bolts used to mount racks. I find the M5 bolts that are used in dropouts for rack mounting, etc., are a tad more likely to get rusty. Seat posts seem to be a bit more out of the elements, so traditionally, I greased them. Upon reflection, though, I might change that over to Anti- seize for seatposts, as well. The rest of the more routinely dismantled threads get grease ( anti -seize is so much messier!). BeforeI learned about anti-seize (mostly from DIY auto repair) I used grease to no ill effect. I would use white lithium grease in places like lower headset bearings or the BB where water might get in. With the waterproof "marine bearing " greases, I no longer fuss with lithium grease at all.
In the automotive world, there were once sticky "assembly" greases that were intended to be displaced by or augmented with thinner hi- temp greases or lubrications. The marine grease has a similar viscosity as the assembly grasses of old. I like synthetic grease, like Super Lube, for my Sturmey Archer IGH's, as it doesn't thin out or wash out from the oil inside the hub.
elcraft is offline  
Old 05-23-19, 10:30 PM
  #16  
Racing Dan
Senior Member
 
Racing Dan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 2,101
Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1240 Post(s)
Liked 272 Times in 184 Posts
Originally Posted by easyupbug View Post
All true, but has anyone had to deal with an anti-seized part that seized? I don't need to ask if anyone has had to deal with a greased part that seize (stem, seat post, etc.).
Yeah, Im inclined to say grease is fine, then again parts may seize efter a long time. Form my experience pedals and seat posts are prone to seizing.
Racing Dan is offline  
Old 05-23-19, 10:47 PM
  #17  
easyupbug 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 2,240

Bikes: too many sparkly Italians, some sweet Americans and a couple interesting Japanese

Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 436 Post(s)
Liked 357 Times in 268 Posts
Originally Posted by Sy Reene View Post
It's a good question.. some scenarios to consider?
Ti pedals into a (what material are these?) crank's thread?
Alloy Seatpost into a Ti frame?
Ti bolts to secure an alloy stem's faceplate

Isn't the point of anti-seize to avoid galvanic corrosion, not duration or extending time between applications?
Good questions, I can only say I come from a smoke stack industry where Preventative Maintenance was highly valued and for Ti if I recall correctly we always used a nickel based anti-seize with any dissimilar metals as apposed to cycling where I, owning only aluminum/steel and/or aluminum/aluminum interface, use copper.
easyupbug is offline  
Old 05-24-19, 07:44 AM
  #18  
rumrunn6
Senior Member
 
rumrunn6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: 25 miles northwest of Boston
Posts: 27,599

Bikes: Bottecchia Sprint, GT Timberline 29r, Trek FX Alpha 7.0

Mentioned: 108 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4633 Post(s)
Liked 2,344 Times in 1,600 Posts
Originally Posted by August West View Post
a compound that has the innate ability to migrate to everything on the bike, in the shop or on you even though you didn't touch anything else
sounds like porcupine quills. I was once stuck w a couple quills taking pics of a dead one, even tho I never touched it!
rumrunn6 is offline  
Old 05-24-19, 07:49 AM
  #19  
rumrunn6
Senior Member
 
rumrunn6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: 25 miles northwest of Boston
Posts: 27,599

Bikes: Bottecchia Sprint, GT Timberline 29r, Trek FX Alpha 7.0

Mentioned: 108 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4633 Post(s)
Liked 2,344 Times in 1,600 Posts
Originally Posted by AlmostTrick View Post
I too use both and see little difference. But I appreciate a good lube debate so I'm hoping it fires up!
lots of ppl talking it down on the Jeep Cherokee forum for lug bolts. after breaking a cpl on an old 4Runner I began using it, sparingly of course, when ever I rotated wheels, etc. on all our cars. but now everyone is saying it creates a false torque easiness, meaning we're likely to over torque due to the lubrication & ppl are saying it's best to use nothing, on wheel lug bolts. I don't do that anymore so I can't dictate what other mechanics policies are. but I always like a small smidgen wiped w a cloth. especially around there the steel wheel sat on the rust steel wheel hub, on Wifey's old Tiyota
rumrunn6 is offline  
Old 05-24-19, 10:22 AM
  #20  
3alarmer 
Friendship is Magic
 
3alarmer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: The Big Tomato
Posts: 21,018

Bikes: old ones

Mentioned: 293 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 23837 Post(s)
Liked 7,538 Times in 5,325 Posts
Originally Posted by AlmostTrick View Post
I too use both and see little difference. But I appreciate a good lube debate so I'm hoping it fires up!
...sweet memories.
3alarmer is offline  
Old 05-26-19, 05:54 AM
  #21  
Dr.Lou
Senior Member
 
Dr.Lou's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2019
Posts: 255
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 47 Post(s)
Liked 95 Times in 60 Posts
Originally Posted by AlmostTrick View Post
I too use both and see little difference. But I appreciate a good lube debate so I'm hoping it fires up!
I use extra virgin olive oil on all my Italian bikes and sesame on Asian bikes.
Dr.Lou is offline  
Old 05-27-19, 08:21 AM
  #22  
Last ride 76 
1/2 as far in 2x the time
 
Last ride 76's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Northern Bergen County, NJ
Posts: 1,935

Bikes: Yes, Please.

Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 499 Post(s)
Liked 283 Times in 220 Posts
Originally Posted by Dr.Lou View Post
I use extra virgin olive oil on all my Italian bikes and sesame on Asian bikes.
Don't make the mistake of using toasted sesame oil... the heating causes the oil to gum up and is heck to clean. In fact perilla oil, being a finer sized molecule is much more suitable for racing wheels, reducing bearing friction by .008 percent.
Last ride 76 is offline  
Old 05-27-19, 08:26 AM
  #23  
Dr.Lou
Senior Member
 
Dr.Lou's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2019
Posts: 255
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 47 Post(s)
Liked 95 Times in 60 Posts
Originally Posted by Last ride 76 View Post
Don't make the mistake of using toasted sesame oil... the heating causes the oil to gum up and is heck to clean. In fact perilla oil, being a finer sized molecule is much more suitable for racing wheels, reducing bearing friction by .008 percent.
I concur, as long as temps donít drop below 0C
Dr.Lou is offline  
Old 02-10-20, 03:27 PM
  #24  
todds
Newbie
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 4
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
This is an old thread but I believe one place anti-seize really is preferable to grease is freewheel threads. Of course anything is better than nothing, but they get removed so infrequently that anti-seize's long life really helps!

___
/<>/>/>
cambridge, ma
todds is offline  
Old 02-11-20, 03:00 AM
  #25  
bitpuddle
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Brooklyn, NY
Posts: 81

Bikes: Cinelli Nemo Tig / Battaglin Power Plus / Giant TCR SL

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 26 Post(s)
Liked 18 Times in 13 Posts
Bicycles are very low-demand applications for lubricants: low speed and low load. Really any grease is fine. You can use anti seize compounds interchangeably with grease on threads, but the reverse isn’t true. Anti seize compounds aren’t lubricants. Anti seize is a reasonable choice when different metals are being threaded or clamped together and can help prevent weird creaks with titanium components.
bitpuddle is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information -

Copyright © 2021 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.