Problem Tightening Rear Hub
 

Not without better description, maybe with photos and/or terms we understand. Initially I wondered about the cones/lock nuts not properly counter tightened to trap the bearing adjustment. But I really can't say from the first attempt to translate what was posted. Andy

I was unable to post an image because I don't have enough post. I can see the racer bearing poking out. I'm sure what you said about the cone/lock nut not properly tightened is what my problem is. When I put the wheel back on the bike I can move it side to side. I think I might have the axle wrong to because I can only see the nut holding it on the brake side. When I try to use the pedals to turn the wheel the chain comes off. If you have more questions I will do what I can to answer. Thank you for reading my post.

Thanks for the link ... I found it earlier and am trying to figure out how to properly tighten the hub.

If it's a new bike, make the dealer fix it.

Brand and model of hub? Hub has a brake? Disk, drum, coaster, roller type? One cog or many? Axle type (solid/nutted or QR/hollow)? Do you have the proper sized cone wrenches? If not do you know the size you need? These are the first I think of. Andy

There is nothing on the hub that indicates the brand or model. The hub has a coaster brake. I'm not sure what a cog is, but it is a single speed bike. Not sure about the axle type either. I tried to find some kind of tech info on the Huffy Nel Lusso, but I was not able to find anything, not even at the Huffy web site. I do have the right size cone wrench.

Most all coaster brakes have the brand/model stamped on the reaction arm. Lacking such suggests a very cheap brand, one that doesn't believe in spreading their name. A cog is a sprocket, could be a single or a gang as in a cassette. Being a coaster brake the axle is most likely a nutted one, or a solid type with no QR hole through it. Andy

Hello? Anyone still out there? I take it the info on the brake was of no help.

I took the back wheel to a local bike shop and had the hub put back on. I asked him what I did wrong, but he would not tell me. He said that is why he was there. I really would like to know what I did wrong. When I tighten it to keep the axle stable the wheel would not turn freely. When I had it loose enough for the wheel to turn the axle would be too loose. I also ended up bending the bearing on the coaster brake side of the wheel. Can anyone tell me what I did wrong? It is a simple mechanism and I should have been able to figure it out.

All single speed hubs today work the same. Adjustments are made with the brake bar and bearing races left intact on the axle, and just like in the picture tutorial from Park tools all just needs to be in the right place during assembly. When that is done correctly, all you need to do, is turn the drive assembly down all the way into the hub, and then turn the axle cones down until they are hand snug. Put the lock nut on and hand turn it down to the cone. Then hold the lock nut in place and turn the cone back out 1/4 turn to lock all of it in place. It isn't rocket science, but your mechanic isn't a teacher. Smiles, MH

Thanks for your input MH ... I appreciate it.:beer:

Check youtube videos...

This video covers the whole process of assembling and adjusting of a typical coaster brake found Stateside:
.

It covers the whole assembly, but importantly it shows the adjustment with the wheel out.

On the other hand, if you ever find yourself in Eastern Europe, this is the go to video:
Complete with chickens ;)

Thanks for the video link ... I already saw that one. My problem was the lock nut ... either I had it too tight where it would not spin or too loose where it would not work properly.

Now you know why it was probably the lowest price bicycle you could find.
Likely there is no name/documentation for generic Chinese hub.

The mechanic probably knows this and is aware what a can of worms it can be. They probably don't want to deal with it and /or you anymore. How much of his time did you occupy for how much $?

You probably inflicted the damage yourself by installing a caged bearing backwards.
One wouldn't even know what size/number of bearings it uses without tearing it apart, whereas in a "documented" hub, that info would be common knowledge or readily available.
The mechanic probably just removed the damage bearing retainer/cage and installed the loose balls. You just use grease to hold them in place.

Nah, no matter how cheap, those hubs are still engineered, but it is indeed easy to make a mistake with them. It is difficult to get a good opinion on them because so many people look down their noses at them.

Generally all the adjustment is on that brake bar - where you turn it clockwise until everything locks up and then reverse it about a 1/4 turn. However, if you have been working at the sprocket end then, depending on the design, you may have released the sprocket bearing cone - which is where things can get difficult as, depending on the design, adjusting the cone can also unwittingly change the brake adjustment.

If your axle has a 7mm square at the sprocket end of the axle then this needs to be held with a spanner while you adjust the sprocket cone. If you have already fiddled around then it is important to back off the brake bar first.

If the wheel is out of the frame you can now adjust the brake, still holding the axle.

If the wheel is in the frame then you can lock up the wheel nut on the sprocket side and then adjust the brake bar.

Not knowing what you have, it is hard to know what went wrong or what the fix was. I just hope that the sprocket bearing was regreased, as I see so many dead coaster brake hubs due to sprocket bearing failure.