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-   -   Cassette spindle holder for disassembly, 3D model (https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-mechanics/1175684-cassette-spindle-holder-disassembly-3d-model.html)

tomtomtom123 06-14-19 03:31 PM

Cassette spindle holder for disassembly, 3D model
 
1 Attachment(s)
I mix cogs from different Shimano cassettes, so I drill out the rivets to get the cogs loose. I use 3D printed spindle holders to keep the cogs together. I attach here a 3D model in STL format if anyone wants to use it. The model is 31mm high, which is long enough for 9 cogs and 8 spacers of a 10 speed cassette, including the 1st cog with built in spacer. If you need different heights, simply scale the Z-axis after you reorient the model in your printer software.

I don't remember where I got the original STP file so long ago, sorry, so I can't give the credit to the original creator, but I modified the file for printer tolerance, and rounded edges.

If you need something to keep the cogs from falling out of the spline, you could probably modify it with an upper and lower twisty caps.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...67931037d1.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...9ef7cc7446.jpg

ChinookTx 06-14-19 04:55 PM

Good job! I was actually doing one too today. I'm trying to make it so it "clips in" on the freehub where the lockring would go, allowing you to slide out the rings without losing their alignement. Then, to reinstall, clip it again, slide the rings out and you're done.

CyclingFool95 06-14-19 05:54 PM

Cool

HillRider 06-14-19 06:28 PM


Originally Posted by ChinookTx (Post 20979281)
I'm trying to make it so it "clips in" on the freehub where the lockring would go, allowing you to slide out the rings without losing their alignement. Then, to reinstall, clip it again, slide the rings out and you're done.

Campy packages their cassettes on a holder of this type that can be used as a guide to slide the whole stack onto their freehub body.

Bill Kapaun 06-14-19 06:43 PM

Won't a junk free hub body work?

ChinookTx 06-14-19 07:08 PM

Not to transfer a cassette from one wheel to another for example. The cassette can only slide in from one end of the FH body, and if you put one FH body against another, the grooves will be mirrored and won't match.

Bill Kapaun 06-14-19 07:21 PM


Originally Posted by ChinookTx (Post 20979458)
Not to transfer a cassette from one wheel to another for example. The cassette can only slide in from one end of the FH body, and if you put one FH body against another, the grooves will be mirrored and won't match.

Cut/grind off the flange.

ChinookTx 06-14-19 07:24 PM

Or 3d print one to start with...

Bill Kapaun 06-14-19 09:23 PM


Originally Posted by ChinookTx (Post 20979493)
Or 3d print one to start with...

And that costs how much compared to just sticking them on the FH one at a time?
It seems more like a solution looking for a problem.

ChinookTx 06-15-19 04:39 AM

11 cents in plastic. You got me, I'm broke now.

AnkleWork 06-15-19 08:55 AM

Consider total procurement cost in time/effort/money (zero salvage value) versus return-on-investment of a few seconds. Money can be made again; time not so much.

_ForceD_ 06-15-19 09:00 AM


Originally Posted by ChinookTx (Post 20979458)
Not to transfer a cassette from one wheel to another for example. The cassette can only slide in from one end of the FH body, and if you put one FH body against another, the grooves will be mirrored and won't match.

So you don't re-introduce/re-use the rivets? It's a nice project, but wouldn't you be accomplishing the same thing if you re-assemble the cassett by putting the cogs and spacers together using the rivets? (I have one old Shimano cassette that is held together with a threaded screw/nut.)

I've considered reconstructing cassettes for reuse. But I have an abundance of the higher and lower cogs that are usable, while the same two or three middle cogs are the ones worn out. So I still have to go through the ordering process. I just question whether purchasing three cogs, disassembling/reassembling outweighs just buying a whole new cassette.

Dan

tomtomtom123 06-16-19 01:16 PM

The drilled out rivets on mine get stuck in the holes and is a pain to get in and out all 3 one at a time. 3D printed spline tolerance can be controlled by scaling the model in the software, so if it's -0.2mm tolerance, it's very easy to slide in and out. Just send it to the printer, and it spits one out in 20 minutes. I think it was 7 or 10 grams of plastic, 1kg costs $20-30, so the 3D print costs 15-20 cents, and then a few extra cents for electricity.

Mixing 10 speed Shimano cassette cogs:
cs-4600 (24T) cog shift badly with hg500 (21T) cog.
HG500 11-32 (14T and 16T) and 11-34 (15T) shift badly when all 3 are put together
cs-4600 (15T) shifts with a 1-3 revolution delay with (16T) 11-32 HG500

Sadly, the only way to get a 24T 10 speed Shimano is to take a cs-4600 12-30 or HG500 11-42.

If you want to start with a 12T as first cog, you need either HG500 12-28 or 11-25, or cs-4600 12-30 or 12-28, which have grooves to take a lock nut, and must be used together with the 13T second cog with built in spacer that comes with either of those sets. The 13T that comes with the HG500 and 11-34 does not work with the 12T with grooves. The lock nut for 12T is also larger than a lock nut for 11T. The 12T from HG500 11-32 does not have grooves to take a lock nut. The 12T first cog can also later become second cog and you can put a normal 11T on top of it if you switch the 12T locknut to a 11T locknut.

If you want to start with 12T as first cog and don't want to buy a complete cassette, you can order the 12, 13, 14 cogs and 12T locknut individually for around $5 each from shops that sell replacement parts. Look at the exploded diagram PDFs for part numbers.
cs4600 exploded pdf
hg500 exploded pdf

Mixing of larger cogs, (26T jump to 32T) (28T jump to 34T) in HG500, and 24T from CS-4600 jump to 28T from HG500, seem to shift fine without problems.

HG500 seems to have more ramps than cs-4600, might shift faster by half a revolution.



Here are my mixes. Last 2 cogs always have big jumps for increased climbing range.
11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 17, 19, 21, 24, 30
12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 18, 20, 22, 25, 30
12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 18, 20, 23, 26, 32
12, 13, 14, 15, 17, 19, 21, 24, 28, 34


Front double:
I successfully shift a double 24-44T TA chainrings, and 24-46T spacycles chainrings. Needs a chain catcher, like from SRAM. The chain will drop once per hour without a chain catcher.

TA middle chainrings are 4mm thick, while Spacycles middle are 4.5mm thick. There is a certain spacing the double rings' gap from surface to surface need to be set apart, you can adjust the spacing with 0.1mm thick 10x16mm DIN 988 shims.

When spaced well, the 20T jump with TA chainrings can run up to 7th gear on the inner ring. I did not try 22T jump with TA. 20 and 22T jump with the thicker Spacycles chainrings can run up to 7th gear on the inner chainring. From 9th gear the chain will rub on the outer ring.

The greater thickness of the spacycles rings might help with upshifting by reducing the side to side gap and forcing the chain to engage the hooks. Spacycles also has more pickup hooks. I spaced the spacycles 7.8mm center-center, while I spaced the TA to 7.6mm, just enough for 7th gear to clear on inner ring. Any farther and chain will not upshift because the gap becomes too big for it to catch on the hooks (for large jumps). I haven't used the TA on the road yet, only on the workstand, but I expect spacycles to shift more easily.

Sadly, Spacycles international shipping is extremely expensive for small items.



Chain capacity:
Shimano RD-4700 derailleur has a listed chain capacity of 41T, but I successfully bumped it up to 43T with the small small combo dragging the chain, but I suspect it might possibly go up to 44T if you are careful about chain length.

ChinookTx 06-16-19 02:47 PM

Very interesting, thanks for sharing.

shelbyfv 06-16-19 03:53 PM

I confess to not knowing there was anyone who still did "custom" in this age of 10 and 11 speed cassettes.:thumb:


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