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Freewheel

Old 07-02-19, 09:17 AM
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windershins
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Freewheel

I have a vintage Nishiki Olympic 10sp. My problem is the freewheel gears have pedal of slop in it, before I take it apart is there an acceptable point of slop? It seems to just slam into gear when I press on the pedal?

Last edited by windershins; 07-02-19 at 09:52 AM.
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Old 07-02-19, 09:37 AM
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fietsbob
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just buy a new 5 speed freewheel and new chain , don't obsess over it ..
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Old 07-02-19, 10:14 AM
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Dude. Just buy a new bike.

From all your threads about this bike it sounds like literally every single component of the bike is in need of some kind of repair.

The bike simple isn't worth as much as it would require you to dump into it to fix it properly. A brand new nice bike really isn't all that expensive compared to the total cost of repairs on your current one.
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Old 07-02-19, 01:45 PM
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I think everything is fine with that bike. I think the op isn‘t used to vintage bikes.

- it has cottered crank. Nothing wrong with that. On the contrary. If it gets loose due to improper installation, reinstall correctly with a new cotter pin and off you go. Riding a loose square taper crank destroys the whole crank.

- It doesn‘t have disk brakes. No problem either. Learn to squeeze those levers hard with multiple fingers and you‘ll stop in time.

- Guess it‘s a 5 speed freewheel. The difference between gears can be 3 or 4 teeth. Guess that‘s meant with slop/slamming. Just get used to it. Or use a half step chainring setup and learn the double shift patterns. And don‘t shift under load.
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Old 07-02-19, 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Kovkov View Post
I think everything is fine with that bike. I think the op isn‘t used to vintage bikes.

- it has cottered crank. Nothing wrong with that. On the contrary. If it gets loose due to improper installation, reinstall correctly with a new cotter pin and off you go. Riding a loose square taper crank destroys the whole crank.

- It doesn‘t have disk brakes. No problem either. Learn to squeeze those levers hard with multiple fingers and you‘ll stop in time.

- Guess it‘s a 5 speed freewheel. The difference between gears can be 3 or 4 teeth. Guess that‘s meant with slop/slamming. Just get used to it. Or use a half step chainring setup and learn the double shift patterns. And don‘t shift under load.
+1... This is an old bike, and it brings a certain joy to clean up an old bike and have it feel the way it felt back when it was new(ish). Fully modernizing an old bike brings a different kind of joy, but you need more tinkering under your belt before you can tackle that, or every step will be a step backward before you slowly advance. I would focus on research and cleaning/restoring this bike to a reasonable level of function, then find the next thing you’re curious about.
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Old 07-03-19, 11:08 PM
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Rear axle loose bearing? Wheel out of true. Frame broke (That one would would be easier to see) Rose Petal or pedals? Sorry to be a ___. Rear tire,, installed wrong? Ride around the blocks a few times, Bikes are very simple. If you mean the crank arms wobble when spinning them by hand? Usually Bottom Bracket trouble. There are loose bearings and caged bearing,, inside the BB Shell. In the 1990's The Cartridge Bottom Bracket Spindle came along. It comes in a box, by spindle width, etc. That spins on to the BB Shell threads, Sorry I can't understand your question, try a local co-op. PS Check to see that both brakes are centered,, ie not dragging.
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Old 07-04-19, 12:49 AM
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Originally Posted by windershins View Post
I have a vintage Nishiki Olympic 10sp. My problem is the freewheel gears have pedal of slop in it, before I take it apart is there an acceptable point of slop? It seems to just slam into gear when I press on the pedal?
...you won't get much in the way of a genuinely helpful response here without a better idea of and description of your perceived problem. I honestly can't figure out what it is you think is wrong, and I see that you've gotten some other borderline negative responses.

Many freewheels are "sloppy" in that they appear to wobble as they go around. They're still perfectly fine to use, because they lock up under forward pressure on the pawls and simply rotate with the wheel. The actual bearing assembly does not need to be especially accurate.
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Old 07-04-19, 06:34 AM
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You need to read the works of Sheldon Brown. 90% of what I have fixed I learned off that website. Simply hands on, a little tinkering and following standard repair and diagnostic procedures
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/
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