Replacing the Front Axle
 

I am replacing the front axle on my Monterey trike because the threads on the original axle are stripped.

The cups use ten bearings [5/32”?], so I’ll replace them. The replacement axle is the same size diameter [3/8”] and same thread [26 TPI] but about 1.5” longer [7” vs. 5.5”]. I believe I ordered the wrong axle, so I’ll check my LBS for a shorter one.

I’ve never replaced an axle, but watched videos on the Internet. I think the required tools are:

1) cone wrench [13 mm for cones]

2) open end wrenches [15 mm for wheel to fork fastener and 17 mm for lock nuts]

3) grease.

I removed the tire and damaged axle. What I have left to do:

1) Pack cups with grease.

2) Evenly space ten bearings on each side.

3) Secure the cups with cones.

4) Clean up excess grease.

5) Tighten lock nuts against cones.

6) Secure wheel to fork with fasteners.

‘Am I missing any steps? Or any helpful tips…

Thanks,

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...5baf9152ad.jpg

cup in hub
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...060a47ca7e.jpg

wheel on bike
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...7cf1803109.jpg

damaged axle and longer replacement


Patrick

None of the information you provided makes any sense.

16mm is uncommon for front wheel cones.

No such thing as inner and outer locknnuts. You just have locknuts. They usually take a 17mm.

Post a photo bro.

I would suggest that you not mix old and new bearing balls, just replace them all, they are not costly.

the cones usually have flats for use with a cone wrench (usually 15mm, IME) to immobilize the cone as you tighten down the lock nut (usually a 17mm), In my experience, the cone tends to back out slightly as you tighten the cone and the lock nut against each other (which might be just the way I do it), so I tend to over tighten the cone slightly, to the point that the rotation feels a little rough. Then, when I tighten down the lock nut, and the cone backs out slightly, I usually hit the sweet spot. Might take a couple of goes before I get it just right

I'm assuming that this is a non-QR wheel, and that OP is distinguishing axle lock nuts (the "inner locknuts") from the actual wheel nuts (by this logic, the "outer lock nuts")

Edited post for clarity, accuracy and uploaded images.

The cone was actually 15mm. I discovered cones on the back are common 15mm, and front 13mm. The replacement axle I ordered is probably for the back, so I'll search for a front axle.

I found a reference for wheel to fork nuts: fasteners. Sorry about the inner/outer labels. Guess it is fasteners, lock nuts and cones. I'm learning...

Yes, non-QR and confused actual wheel nuts as additional lock nuts.

Sounds like a good start.

The extra length won’t matter as long as you don’t care about an extra ~3/4” of axle sticking out above and beyond you old axle width. You probably mistakenly ordered a rear axle but the bike doesn’t care if you don’t

Unless the extra length leads to a clearance problem somewhere, this is just a cosmetic issue.

A hacksaw will take care of the extra length once installed.

I've found the 3/8" axles are always filled with 10 ball bearings, but that leaves very little space to allow th bb's to move around. Sheldon Brown's rule for loose bb's is to fit them in until you can fit no more, then remove one.This will generally result in 9 bb's for the front axle. Read Sheldon Brown's page;
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/cone-adjustment.html
and
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/hubs.html
and
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/bearings.html

I can't find the statement regarding removing one ball; here is a discussion on bike forums.....
https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-m...each-side.html