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Rear Wheel Not Spinning at All!

Old 08-06-19, 08:50 AM
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Avalle14
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Rear Wheel Not Spinning at All!

So I just bought this used bike. It was a 2015 Wethepeople curse and i got it for 70. I took it home rode it a little and the back wheel stopped working and ive no clue why. It just tightened up all of the sudden and the rear wheel does not spin.

I think i see the problem as theres space between the driver abd the hub. Il post a pic if i can. Apparently Ive been googling and maybe the locknut is loose? Or something to do with a lock nut. Any help would be very much appreciated as I just got it and already gotta fix it.

Also forgot to metion that it makes a terrible noise when I try and force the wheel to spin!

I really wish I could post pics but the sites not letting me telling me I need 10 posts.
Please help me
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Old 08-06-19, 09:01 AM
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Since the problem is likely with the rear hub it's brand/model might help us help you. Third party photo hosting sites can be linked to by writing out the "." as "dot".

Sounds like a bearing issue. Someone needs to removal the rear wheel (and confirm that the obvious stuff like tire rub on brake or frame wasn't the problem) and begin the process of taking the hub apart. Andy
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Old 08-06-19, 09:19 AM
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Had an interesting similar problem with the neighbor's bike recently. It was 4 or 5 broken spokes, all near the hub. It was amazing the wheel didn't collapse.
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Old 08-06-19, 10:11 AM
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Old 08-06-19, 10:37 AM
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Not familiar with those hubs, but you don't have a lock nut on those ends. That would allow the nuts to tighten into the bearings.
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Old 08-06-19, 01:05 PM
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I think I see the space that the OP refers too. First pic, between the integrated sprocket/hub, and the hub body itself. The axle seems to have unscrewed in that direction. May be knackered. A new Salt wheel is over a hundred bucks, but given this result perhaps a cheaper brand would be more satisfactory (and more reliable!).
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Old 08-06-19, 01:07 PM
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On edit, are both sides of the axle coming out of the wheel? Did the axle break?

OP, if you yank on the axle parts do they come out of the hub?
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Old 08-06-19, 02:20 PM
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Is the rear brake dragging? Is the tire rubbing?
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Old 08-06-19, 02:55 PM
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Originally Posted by WizardOfBoz View Post
On edit, are both sides of the axle coming out of the wheel? Did the axle break?

OP, if you yank on the axle parts do they come out of the hub?
Hey this is the op, had to make another account to respond.

No they do not, they are firmly in place, I've tried taking the hub apart but I don't have a flat wrench so I couldnt do so. When I take the driver out it just doesn't sit right in the hub and I don't know why.
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Old 08-06-19, 02:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Delmarva View Post
Is the rear brake dragging? Is the tire rubbing?
I wish that the brake was dragging on it or rubbing but thats not the case at all. Its at the point where I can't pedal forward. The wheel spins with the axle so when I tighten it to the frame it cant spin. It like doesn't spin freely. And im only 15 so buying a whole new wheel will be super hard to do.
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Old 08-06-19, 03:19 PM
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Well, vallea1403, you have some allies here, anyway.

Forgive the questions if they're a little simplistic. I'm trying to be very clear.

So the axle (or axle pieces) is pretty much frozen to hub, with no play? Or is there play (can you wiggle the axle in the hub, or do they behave like one their solidly fastened)?

A question or two. Did the rear wheel slide out pretty easily once you loosened the axle nuts? Or did you have to yank it out? Can you measure a couple of things? First, what is the width of the frame between the dropouts? The dropouts are the metal frame parts with slots that the wheel goes in. Then, if you can, measure the distance on the axle between the points that mate up and bear against the dropouts.

The thing I'm thinking is if the axle is locked up, then either the axle broke and pieces are wedged in there keeping everything frozen, or somehow the driver (that's the part with the chain sprocket, right?) unscrewed a bit and bearings or parts got loose in the hub and locked it up.

Do you have a pair of pliers? Wrap something thick (full grain leather would work but that may be a stretch) around the axle and using pliers try to wiggle the axle. Take care not to hurt the threads on the axle.

I'm hoping that this is an axle or some bearing cones - cheaper than a wheel, anyway. Good luck, let us know how you're doing.
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Old 08-06-19, 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by WizardOfBoz View Post
Well, vallea1403, you have some allies here, anyway.

Forgive the questions if they're a little simplistic. I'm trying to be very clear.

So the axle (or axle pieces) is pretty much frozen to hub, with no play? Or is there play (can you wiggle the axle in the hub, or do they behave like one their solidly fastened)?

A question or two. Did the rear wheel slide out pretty easily once you loosened the axle nuts? Or did you have to yank it out? Can you measure a couple of things? First, what is the width of the frame between the dropouts? The dropouts are the metal frame parts with slots that the wheel goes in. Then, if you can, measure the distance on the axle between the points that mate up and bear against the dropouts.

The thing I'm thinking is if the axle is locked up, then either the axle broke and pieces are wedged in there keeping everything frozen, or somehow the driver (that's the part with the chain sprocket, right?) unscrewed a bit and bearings or parts got loose in the hub and locked it up.

Do you have a pair of pliers? Wrap something thick (full grain leather would work but that may be a stretch) around the axle and using pliers try to wiggle the axle. Take care not to hurt the threads on the axle.

I'm hoping that this is an axle or some bearing cones - cheaper than a wheel, anyway. Good luck, let us know how you're doing.
The axles are basically frozen with no play like at all and no wiggle.

The wheel did slid out easily out of the dropout like it normally would and I didnt need to yank or do anything.

Im going to try and measure what you told me to but Im pretty sure Im measuring the wrong thing so forgive me if i did. The width of the dropouts is about 2 inches? just about. The lenght of the axles are about 1 and a half inches on both sides. I don't have any leather but I used a towel and made sure not to mess up the threads but there wasnt any wiggle or movement from the treads.

You're a godsend for helping me man and sorry if I didn't answer something right just ask me and il be sure to clarify!
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Old 08-06-19, 07:44 PM
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Ok, here's where the hive mind needs to work. What I'm seeing is the drive cog part (the "driver" is what I think you called it - that works fine) is pulled away from the hub. On the NDS (non-drive side) it seems to me that the axle is pulled out a bit, too. If so, the hub is wider than normal, and so this would indicate that the axle was stretched (e.g. broken) or that the nuts on the end of the axles had gotten loose and had unscrewed to some extent. So I was hoping to hear that you had to pull the wheel out a bit. Tell us, if you put the wheel back into the frame do you have to stretch the dropouts apart to get the axle in the slots?

The two measurements I was interested in are illustrated in a good article here that has pictures of the frame and hub width I'm after. It's by the late Sheldon Brown, a very smart bicycle ultraenthusiast and mechanic, who wrote pages and pages of understandable stuff about bikes. Anyway the pics show what I was after. I suspect that your frame width is 110mm (4 1/3 inches), and this should match your wheels hub. Measuring the hub width accurately, without the calipers shown, is a bit tough. But if the axle slides into the frame and is an exact fit without having to stretch the frame, then the frame measurement equals the hub measurement.

So, if your frame is 110mm, and your hub is 127mm or you have to stretch the frame apart to get the hub in, then I'm excited and my broken axle theory gains credibility. Or if hub your slides easily into and out of the frame but the frame is bigger than 110. That might indicate your axle broke and the frame got stretched out. again supporting the broken axle theory. If so, don't worry: you have a frame made of high quality steel, and steel frames are more easily bent back into shape that any other material.

If the frame measures 110mm, and your hub slides in exactly (so its 110mm too), then we need another theory. Either folks here can come up with ideas, or the local bike shop maybe?

Regarding me being a godsend, well, we haven't fixed anything yet! I figure that's what we're all here for. There's a lot of people who will try to help you. We may run out of ideas remotely. Do you have a bike shop anywhere near you?
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Old 08-06-19, 08:39 PM
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This is a BMX single speed hub.
https://www.modernbike.com/product-2...RoCXSoQAvD_BwE

My guess is the carrier backed out and the pawls are jammed.
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Old 08-06-19, 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by WizardOfBoz View Post
Ok, here's where the hive mind needs to work. What I'm seeing is the drive cog part (the "driver" is what I think you called it - that works fine) is pulled away from the hub. On the NDS (non-drive side) it seems to me that the axle is pulled out a bit, too. If so, the hub is wider than normal, and so this would indicate that the axle was stretched (e.g. broken) or that the nuts on the end of the axles had gotten loose and had unscrewed to some extent. So I was hoping to hear that you had to pull the wheel out a bit. Tell us, if you put the wheel back into the frame do you have to stretch the dropouts apart to get the axle in the slots?

The two measurements I was interested in are illustrated in a good article that has pictures of the frame and hub width I'm after. It's by the late Sheldon Brown, a very smart bicycle ultraenthusiast and mechanic, who wrote pages and pages of understandable stuff about bikes. Anyway the pics show what I was after. I suspect that your frame width is 110mm (4 1/3 inches), and this should match your wheels hub. Measuring the hub width accurately, without the calipers shown, is a bit tough. But if the axle slides into the frame and is an exact fit without having to stretch the frame, then the frame measurement equals the hub measurement.

So, if your frame is 110mm, and your hub is 127mm or you have to stretch the frame apart to get the hub in, then I'm excited and my broken axle theory gains credibility. Or if hub your slides easily into and out of the frame but the frame is bigger than 110. That might indicate your axle broke and the frame got stretched out. again supporting the broken axle theory. If so, don't worry: you have a frame made of high quality steel, and steel frames are more easily bent back into shape that any other material.

If the frame measures 110mm, and your hub slides in exactly (so its 110mm too), then we need another theory. Either folks here can come up with ideas, or the local bike shop maybe?

Regarding me being a godsend, well, we haven't fixed anything yet! I figure that's what we're all here for. There's a lot of people who will try to help you. We may run out of ideas remotely. Do you have a bike shop anywhere near you?
When I take the wheel out it comes out eassally and when I put it back in, I don't have to stretch the dropouts so sadly I think the theory may not work. There is a local bike shop but theres no bmx shops near here, you think a regular bike shop can also fix something like this? Id imagine so. And If so you think It would cost a lot of money?? More money than just buying a new wheel? Either way sucks! Just got this thing and already gotta fix it mind you I have no money
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Old 08-06-19, 09:08 PM
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Looked a little for videos, this one will at least show you how that comes apart. You may be able to find something better if you search a bit
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Old 08-07-19, 08:23 AM
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vallea1403, here's where you're going to have to make some decisions. You can watch the video that curbtender posted, and follow it to get the driver off your wheel. But you'll need an appropriate wrench and hex key. If there's anyone you know you can borrow these from, that would be great. If not, you can either buy tools, or go to the bike shop (they may not be an MTB shop, but they'll have the tools. I'm a tool geek, and I tend to buy very good tools that are extremely expensive. That said, you can get tools that will work for cheap at Harbor Freight or the dollar store. They won't be as "nice" or as long-lasting as Snap-On tools, but they'll be a tenth or twentieth the cost. Best, though, if you have a neighbor you could ask.

Curbtender sounds knowledgeable regarding these hubs, and the video shows how they work. If you can get the driver out and inspect the pawls (they are pawls, not "paws" as the guy in the video pronounces the word) and springs, you may be ok just re-installing the things. I don't know if such pawls are available as repair parts - anyone? If they're not online you might try emailing wethepeople bikes to see if they have any.

On the other hand, if the innards of the hub are mangled and the places you stick the springs and pawls are broken, I'm afraid you'll need a new (or used, check ebay) hub, or you could replace the wheel. Replacing a hub is a considerable skill set (you have to remove the spokes, reinstall them making sure to properly lace them together, and then tighten the spokes to get a sufficiently taut set of spokes, and a wheel that runs true. Do you have the patience for this? Also, these hubs seem darned expensive. So it may be cheaper to buy a new or used wheel. Ebay and the web will clue you in on what is available.
Last alternative: find a cheap bmx bike on Craig's list and swap the wheel out. Then sell the bmx frame.
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Old 08-07-19, 09:43 AM
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Originally Posted by WizardOfBoz View Post
vallea1403, here's where you're going to have to make some decisions. You can watch the video that curbtender posted, and follow it to get the driver off your wheel. But you'll need an appropriate wrench and hex key. If there's anyone you know you can borrow these from, that would be great. If not, you can either buy tools, or go to the bike shop (they may not be an MTB shop, but they'll have the tools. I'm a tool geek, and I tend to buy very good tools that are extremely expensive. That said, you can get tools that will work for cheap at Harbor Freight or the dollar store. They won't be as "nice" or as long-lasting as Snap-On tools, but they'll be a tenth or twentieth the cost. Best, though, if you have a neighbor you could ask.

Curbtender sounds knowledgeable regarding these hubs, and the video shows how they work. If you can get the driver out and inspect the pawls (they are pawls, not "paws" as the guy in the video pronounces the word) and springs, you may be ok just re-installing the things. I don't know if such pawls are available as repair parts - anyone? If they're not online you might try emailing wethepeople bikes to see if they have any.

On the other hand, if the innards of the hub are mangled and the places you stick the springs and pawls are broken, I'm afraid you'll need a new (or used, check ebay) hub, or you could replace the wheel. Replacing a hub is a considerable skill set (you have to remove the spokes, reinstall them making sure to properly lace them together, and then tighten the spokes to get a sufficiently taut set of spokes, and a wheel that runs true. Do you have the patience for this? Also, these hubs seem darned expensive. So it may be cheaper to buy a new or used wheel. Ebay and the web will clue you in on what is available.
Last alternative: find a cheap bmx bike on Craig's list and swap the wheel out. Then sell the bmx frame.
I'm actually fortunate enough to have almost every tool I need as my grandpa built a shed and had tons of tools and thats why tools arent the biggest issue. As for the driver, well I took it off yesterday as I actually do have experiance with hubs but the last time I tried it I just broke the thing, but I do know how to take it apart. When I took the driver out the pawls seemed fine? I'm trying to take the hub apart and maybe just re lube it and clean it and maybe that will fix it. Its a used bike so I have no clue when It was last greased up. I will say when I took the driver out everything seemed real gunky and dirty. I'm going to try and take the whole axle out today as I saw videos that had similar hubs and they just banged the axle out with a hammer. Hopefully itl just come out!
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Old 08-07-19, 10:25 AM
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This is good news - having tools is great. You got the driver off. Is the axle still stuck in there?

"Gunky and dirty" is going to apply to most bicycle innerds. You can use a strong detergent (Simple Green) and water, or mineral spirits to clean the gunk out. Use gloves. If you use water and soap, dry scrupulously and any steel parts should get a light coat of oil right away.

I'm still wondering why this locked up. If the axle and bearings can be removed and you get everything cleaned up, it may clear. It may be a simple grease and replace. If so, it probably was a loose locknut that allowed the driver to spin out. Make sure you adjust the thing and tighten locknuts sufficiently.

A note about "banging the axle out with a hammer". Remember, you've got threads on the axle and banging on it with a hammer may damage those threads. If you can, put the nut on the end of the axle so that the axle is almost all the way into the nut. Then put a piece of wood (an old 2x4 or something) on the nut and whack away. But be advised that you should be whacking the thing away from bearings. That is, if you whack on the axle and the axle transmits that force to the bearing cone or race, through the balls, and into the cup, you can dent (it's called "brinnelling") the bearings.

So.... make sure you're whacking the the right direction. And easy does it to start. My two cents, anyway.

Good luck! It sounds like you're learning stuff. And, presuming that you can fix this with a cleaning and repacking and cup/cone adjustment you'll feel pretty cool riding on this bike.

Last edited by WizardOfBoz; 08-07-19 at 12:13 PM.
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Old 08-07-19, 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by WizardOfBoz View Post
This is good news - having tools is great. You got the driver off. Is the axle still stuck in there?

"Gunky and dirty" is going to apply to most bicycle innerds. You can use a strong detergent (Simple Green) and water, or mineral spirits to clean the gunk out. Use gloves. If you use water and soap, dry scrupulously and any steel parts should get a light coat of oil right away.

I'm still wondering why this locked up. If the axle and bearings can be removed and you get everything cleaned up, it may clear. It may be a simple grease and replace. If so, it probably was a loose locknut that allowed the driver to spin out. Make sure you adjust the thing and tighten locknuts sufficiently.

A note about "banging the axle out with a hammer". Remember, you've got threads on the axle and banging on it with a hammer may damage those threads. If you can, put the nut on the end of the axle so that the axle is almost all the way into the nut. Then put a piece of wood (an old 2x4 or something) on the nut and whack away. But be advised that you should be whacking the thing away from bearings. That is, if you whack on the axle and the axle transmits that force to the bearing cone or race, through the balls, and into the cup, you can dent (it's called "brinnelling") the bearings.

So.... make sure you're whacking the the right direction. And easy does it to start. My two cents, anyway.

Good luck! It sounds like you're learning stuff. And, presuming that you can fix this with a cleaning and repacking and cup/cone adjustment you'll feel pretty cool riding on this bike.
Alright welp, now I can't take the axle out.. The hammer didn't do anything, so I thought I needed to take the screw off. I went to homedepot to see if I could find a flat wrench to fit, I found the right size but its huge, its 24mm wrench. I really don't know how to take the axle out? the little nut is think and my wrenches don't grab onto it. Im going to try and give some local bike repair shops a call to see if they repair bmx.
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Old 08-07-19, 04:11 PM
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Sometimes you can put a larger nut like that in your vise, if the vise lips are not too worn and are sharp and square.
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Old 08-07-19, 05:03 PM
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Originally Posted by WizardOfBoz View Post
Sometimes you can put a larger nut like that in your vise, if the vise lips are not too worn and are sharp and square.
I uploaded some more pics, its super annoying! Any ideas on how to get it off??
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