New Wheels
 

Doing a complete rebuild on a 1994 Cannondale H400. I have stripped the bike down completely, the frame and forks are almost immaculate, and I am going to rebuild it from the wheels up. This is a project/learning experience for me. I’m not trying to do anything elaborate.

My question involves replacing the wheelset. The labels are too worn to determine even which brand of rims were originally on the bike but it has 700x35c tires on it. How can I determine the proper wheelset from either the dimensions of the wheel or the tire size? As I’ve been going through the process of selecting components, this is the one thing that has continued to baffle me.

Vintage Cannondale Website
 

I’m familiar with the Vintage Cannondale site, even ordered some small parts for the project there, but unless I’m missing something I’m not finding any information that really answers my question.

What exactly is the question?

Do you want a period correct wheelset or a wheelset that will work with your frame?

If period correct, then you need to research both what is period correct (a quick bit of research indicates they were Ritchey Vantage Cross Sport rims), and source parts

If just a set that works, measure the OLD (width of the rear hub, will be 130mm or 135mm, and buy a set of wheels with this OLD/for 700c/29er rim brakes.

Another question would be, what is wrong with the current wheels? is the frame is in immaculate condition, this indicates the bike is pretty much unused, and maybe the wheels could just use a bearing service (labels peeling is something that happens with age, not necessarily use).

From what I can gather, the OEM rims were Sun L18. They appear to be single-walled rims with probably an 18mm inner width. Unless you need to be "catalog correct", I would just use rims that are better and more available here in 2019. :thumb:

I am looking for a wheelset that will work with the frame. It does not need to be exactly what was originally on the bike, however I want to stay with the wider tires in that 35 range. It by no means needs to be exact though.

How can I identify whether a wheel is wide enough to accommodate that thicker tire? Am I wrong in thinking I would need a different wheel for this bike compared to my road bike which is running 700cx25 assuming that the rear hub is 135mm for both?

ThermionicScott, I believe you just answered my question. Inner diameter of the rim will be the deciding factor in tire width?

Front wheels are relatively generic for that era. 100mm spacing & rim brakes.
The rear requires more attention since they come in different "speeds".

Your bike appears to have a 7 speed cassette. 7 speed Free Hubs are shorter than >7 speed hubs.
You MIGHT have an 8 speed hub with a 4.5mm (3/16") spacer installed before the cassette to take up the extra room. You can eyeball this.
drop out spacing is important, but I'll assume it's 135mm (5-5/16"). CHECK to make sure. It might be 130mm.

IF the bike is 135mm AND you are changing shifters, now would be a good time to go to 8 or 9 speed.
You need a new R shifter. IF going to 9 speed, also a new chain.

You are spot on about the 7 speed cassette, which is one factor in replacing the wheelset. My LBS confirmed the 135mm. We had a similar discussion about the expanded options a more modern wheelset allows for.

If you're changing out the hub for a more modern wider one, you can keep the 7-speed setup, with the use of a 4.5mm spacer for the back of the cassette, any good LBS should stock these

If looking to go with a more classic look, H+Son TB-14s are nice.

=8-)

IF this includes going up in speeds, don't even mess around with 8 speed.
9 speed shifters, cassette & chain are only slightly more $ than 8.
You DO need a new 9 speed chain. (8 speed should be good with your 7 speed chain, but new cassette should have a new chain if worn to any degree)
The good part-
Check the available cog count options for 9 speed vs 8. There's a far wider selection that might fit your specific needs much better in 9 speed than those available in 8.
It won't cost 2X the $ from 8 vs 9.

You SHOULDN'T need a new crank/FDER.