Can't get BB off, but its weird :|
09-30-19, 08:34 AM
#1
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Can't get BB off, but its weird :|
Hi there quick question about removing this bottom bracket.
Someone gave me an old super cycle which is in perfect shape except it has a loose cartridge bottom bracket (I have the cranks off and the spindles flop everywhere).
I can't get the cups off and I just wanted to check some stuff before I destroy my tools:
Images
Someone gave me an old super cycle which is in perfect shape except it has a loose cartridge bottom bracket (I have the cranks off and the spindles flop everywhere).
I can't get the cups off and I just wanted to check some stuff before I destroy my tools:
- Everything on the bike is shimano so I assume the non-drive side cup needs to be turned clockwise to loosen it, drive side is counter clockwise.
- I need to use a bottom bracket tool AND a 20spline tool (I have a BBT32) to remove the drive side pictured below
- The splines on my bbt32 don't engage that deep (maybe 1mm). Is that normal?
- The BBT32 kind of pops out when I push really hard but there isn't a good way to force it to stay inside the teeth
- tightening or replacing the cartridge should solve the issue.
Images
09-30-19, 08:41 AM
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Originally Posted by chico1st
Hi there quick question about removing this bottom bracket.
Someone gave me an old super cycle which is in perfect shape except it has a loose cartridge bottom bracket (I have the cranks off and the spindles flop everywhere).
I can't get the cups off and I just wanted to check some stuff before I destroy my tools:
Images
Someone gave me an old super cycle which is in perfect shape except it has a loose cartridge bottom bracket (I have the cranks off and the spindles flop everywhere).
I can't get the cups off and I just wanted to check some stuff before I destroy my tools:
- Everything on the bike is shimano so I assume the non-drive side cup needs to be turned clockwise to loosen it, drive side is counter clockwise.
- I need to use a bottom bracket tool AND a 20spline tool (I have a BBT32) to remove the drive side pictured below
- The splines on my bbt32 don't engage that deep (maybe 1mm). Is that normal?
- The BBT32 kind of pops out when I push really hard but there isn't a good way to force it to stay inside the teeth
- tightening or replacing the cartridge should solve the issue.
Images
Take off the lock ring first.
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_bo-z.html#bottom
09-30-19, 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by chico1st
Hi there quick question about removing this bottom bracket.
Someone gave me an old super cycle which is in perfect shape except it has a loose cartridge bottom bracket (I have the cranks off and the spindles flop everywhere).
I can't get the cups off and I just wanted to check some stuff before I destroy my tools:
Images
Someone gave me an old super cycle which is in perfect shape except it has a loose cartridge bottom bracket (I have the cranks off and the spindles flop everywhere).
I can't get the cups off and I just wanted to check some stuff before I destroy my tools:
- Everything on the bike is shimano so I assume the non-drive side cup needs to be turned clockwise to loosen it, drive side is counter clockwise.
- I need to use a bottom bracket tool AND a 20spline tool (I have a BBT32) to remove the drive side pictured below
- The splines on my bbt32 don't engage that deep (maybe 1mm). Is that normal?
- The BBT32 kind of pops out when I push really hard but there isn't a good way to force it to stay inside the teeth
- tightening or replacing the cartridge should solve the issue.
Images
I have a tool that holds the BB tool in place for removal and installation, but there are hacks that you can use to do it without the tool. We just had a thread on that here recently.
09-30-19, 03:24 PM
#4
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Bikes: Old steel race bikes, old Cannondale race bikes, less old Cannondale race bike, crappy old mtn bike.
FYI: https://www.bikeforums.net/forum-sugg...ad-please.html
09-30-19, 06:03 PM
#5
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Originally Posted by Dan Burkhart
Actually, the loosening direction is opposite to that. It is the drive side that is reverse threaded.
I have a tool that holds the BB tool in place for removal and installation, but there are hacks that you can use to do it without the tool. We just had a thread on that here recently.
I have a tool that holds the BB tool in place for removal and installation, but there are hacks that you can use to do it without the tool. We just had a thread on that here recently.
09-30-19, 08:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Kapaun
Like this-
Thanks for the tip!
09-30-19, 08:57 PM
#8
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Originally Posted by chico1st
Oooo right on. OK that problem is annoying enough that I will wander around looking for some washers before I try this again
Thanks for the tip!
Thanks for the tip!
Take a crank bolt with you when shopping. Sometimes a crank bolt will work, depending on which tool you have & spindle length.
With 2-3 bolts & a "few" 3/8" (or 8mm) washers, you can cover any length spindle. (or 1 really long bolt & a lot of washers.
09-30-19, 08:59 PM
#9
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Originally Posted by Bigbus
That's ingenious Bill. I would have just found a larger hammer...
09-30-19, 09:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Kapaun
Then "Like" it and make me famous.....
09-30-19, 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Bigbus
Are we happy now?
09-30-19, 10:27 PM
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Bill's idea is a great one. The first law of BB removal though, is "Thou shalt maketh sureth that one knoweth the thread direction".
As a bit of practical advice, once you get your tool threaded onto the spindle, you can put the tool flats in a vice and use the frame as a wrench. Often easier.
As a bit of practical advice, once you get your tool threaded onto the spindle, you can put the tool flats in a vice and use the frame as a wrench. Often easier.
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10-01-19, 01:02 AM
#13
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It's pretty normal to have a challenging time keeping the splines engaged on the BB tool. The above suggestion is good, you can also just put a big clamp over it all also.
10-01-19, 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by WizardOfBoz
Bill's idea is a great one. The first law of BB removal though, is "Thou shalt maketh sureth that one knoweth the thread direction".
As a bit of practical advice, once you get your tool threaded onto the spindle, you can put the tool flats in a vice and use the frame as a wrench. Often easier.
As a bit of practical advice, once you get your tool threaded onto the spindle, you can put the tool flats in a vice and use the frame as a wrench. Often easier.
Reminded me of an attempt ~yr 2000 to remove a freewheel from a rear hub in place since ~1974. Used a vice to clamp the FW remover and grabbed the rims and
after carefully checking which direction to turn the wheel proceeded to shear off the prongs on the FW remover and permanently cant the FW body on the threads,
such that the FW would barely turn. Probably turned the wheel the wrong way, or the FW was really stuck. Still have the wheel as a memento.
10-01-19, 10:58 AM
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Golly, sch, nothing like that EVER happened to me...
I mean, I got all my wisdom from seeing OTHER people make mistakes.
_____________________________________
Experience is mistakes repeated many times....
I mean, I got all my wisdom from seeing OTHER people make mistakes.
_____________________________________
Experience is mistakes repeated many times....
10-01-19, 11:01 AM
#16
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Originally Posted by sch
Reminded me of an attempt ~yr 2000 to remove a freewheel from a rear hub in place since ~1974. Used a vice to clamp the FW remover and grabbed the rims and
after carefully checking which direction to turn the wheel proceeded to shear off the prongs on the FW remover and permanently cant the FW body on the threads,
such that the FW would barely turn. Probably turned the wheel the wrong way, or the FW was really stuck. Still have the wheel as a memento.
after carefully checking which direction to turn the wheel proceeded to shear off the prongs on the FW remover and permanently cant the FW body on the threads,
such that the FW would barely turn. Probably turned the wheel the wrong way, or the FW was really stuck. Still have the wheel as a memento.
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10-01-19, 11:18 AM
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Originally Posted by WizardOfBoz
Bill's idea is a great one. The first law of BB removal though, is "Thou shalt maketh sureth that one knoweth the thread direction".
As a bit of practical advice, once you get your tool threaded onto the spindle, you can put the tool flats in a vice and use the frame as a wrench. Often easier.
As a bit of practical advice, once you get your tool threaded onto the spindle, you can put the tool flats in a vice and use the frame as a wrench. Often easier.
10-01-19, 11:43 AM
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Leverage is your friend. A big bar or extender from a spanner or socket drive will help enormously. A bit of penetrating fluid on the joints might be of use also.
10-02-19, 07:57 AM
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Originally Posted by WizardOfBoz
Experience is mistakes repeated many times....
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10-02-19, 08:04 AM
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Originally Posted by HillRider
A variation is: "Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from poor judgement".
10-02-19, 09:02 AM
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Originally Posted by HillRider
A variation is: "Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from poor judgement".
10-02-19, 10:16 AM
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Another wise man once said, "He don't know nothin' cause he never done nothin'."
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10-02-19, 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Dan Burkhart
Actually, the loosening direction is opposite to that. It is the drive side that is reverse threaded.
Back when I still had to think about it, my ”clue” was that with the wheels on the ground, and gravity as your helper, the wrench should point to the rear for loosening pedals, and forward for loosening BBs.
Originally Posted by Dan Burkhart
I have a tool that holds the BB tool in place for removal and installation, but there are hacks that you can use to do it without the tool. We just had a thread on that here recently.
10-02-19, 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by HillRider
A variation is: "Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from poor judgement".
10-02-19, 01:02 PM
#25
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Originally Posted by dabac
.......I’ve looked a bit for a long enough bolt with the right thread, but so far I’ve settled for a big C-clamp.
The more common size is 8x1.25mm.
