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What Crank Removal Tool Do I Need?

Old 10-11-19, 02:17 PM
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UKFan4Sure 
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What Crank Removal Tool Do I Need?

SOLVED! SO READ ONLY AS INFO. THANKS!!

I have a vintage 1986 Schwinn with Stronglite cranks. I need to remove the bottom bracket, and therefore the cranks to repack the bearings. They are extremely dry.

I have a standard tool I've used on Shimano square taper before, but it doesn't seem to fit this one. Can anyone tell me what tools I need to purchase?

Thanks to all in advance!




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Last edited by UKFan4Sure; 10-12-19 at 09:29 AM.
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Old 10-11-19, 02:21 PM
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When you say it doesn't fit, I'm assuming you mean the larger internal thread pattern on the crank itself is different from your 'standard' tool and not the threads on the square tapered shaft?
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Old 10-11-19, 02:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Bigbus View Post
When you say it doesn't fit, I'm assuming you mean the larger internal thread pattern on the crank itself is different from your 'standard' tool and not the threads on the square tapered shaft?
Yeah, the internal threads on the crank. Either that, or the Shimano tool is slightly larger and won't fit in the hole. There was a nut on the square taper shaft; each end. There is no bolt like on Shimano. External BB shaft threads vs internal....
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Old 10-11-19, 05:26 PM
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TA and Stronglight have slightly different-sized threads from the standard and each other so you need a specific tool for each.
Stein Tools make one: https://www.steintool.com/portfolio-...nk-extractors/ Their products are top-notch.
You could also drive them off with a pair of Jacobs chuck wedges, #3 size IIRC: http://www.jacobschuck.com/accessories/wedge-set
Edit: Here's a TA/Stronglight combo tool: https://www.ebay.com/itm/2in1-Strong...-/222325878325 I doubt that the quality is up to the Stein tools but may be good enough.

Last edited by dsbrantjr; 10-11-19 at 05:34 PM.
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Old 10-11-19, 05:51 PM
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Originally Posted by dsbrantjr View Post
TA and Stronglight have slightly different-sized threads from the standard and each other so you need a specific tool for each.
Stein Tools make one: https://www.steintool.com/portfolio-...nk-extractors/ Their products are top-notch.
You could also drive them off with a pair of Jacobs chuck wedges, #3 size IIRC: http://www.jacobschuck.com/accessories/wedge-set
Edit: Here's a TA/Stronglight combo tool: https://www.ebay.com/itm/2in1-Strong...-/222325878325 I doubt that the quality is up to the Stein tools but may be good enough.
Thank you, Sir! You are a blessing!
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Old 10-11-19, 06:02 PM
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IIRC Stronglight moved from their older extractor threads of a 23.35mm diameter to the JIS standard of 22mm diameter in 1982 (or that's what my Sutherlands just confirmed). TA use to be 23mm in diameter, what they use currently I don't know. The logo on the crank arm in the photo sure looks to be the more recent version, suggesting the 22mm threading.

First thing I would do is make sure there's gas in the tank... or in this case the extractor plunger is unthreaded enough to allow the axle's stud to enter the extractor as the extractor is threaded into the arm. Next up is to try another extractor. It's quite possible that the arm's threads are not cut well, or that the tap was dull and the threads are not as deeply formed as should be. If this bike were to be brought into the shop I work at and all we had to do was pull the arms (and we had no problems doing so) the cost would be a pretty token amount. Andy
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Old 10-12-19, 12:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Andrew R Stewart View Post
IIRC Stronglight moved from their older extractor threads of a 23.35mm diameter to the JIS standard of 22mm diameter in 1982 (or that's what my Sutherlands just confirmed). TA use to be 23mm in diameter, what they use currently I don't know. The logo on the crank arm in the photo sure looks to be the more recent version, suggesting the 22mm threading.

First thing I would do is make sure there's gas in the tank... or in this case the extractor plunger is unthreaded enough to allow the axle's stud to enter the extractor as the extractor is threaded into the arm. Next up is to try another extractor. It's quite possible that the arm's threads are not cut well, or that the tap was dull and the threads are not as deeply formed as should be. If this bike were to be brought into the shop I work at and all we had to do was pull the arms (and we had no problems doing so) the cost would be a pretty token amount. Andy
Thanks, I'll check that out. You may very well be on to something.
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Old 10-12-19, 05:50 AM
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Originally Posted by dsbrantjr View Post
TA and Stronglight have slightly different-sized threads from the standard and each other so you need a specific tool for each.
The OP's crank is a post-1982 Stronglight and should have standard 22mm extractor thread.

I do note that the spindle is a male-type (nutted) spindle which may work better with a Maxy-type extractor:

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Old 10-12-19, 09:28 AM
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I would like to thank everyone for their input into my problem.

Andrew and John were correct, this is the standard JIS threaded crank.

I tried again with my tool and got the threads to start on both sides. On the non-drive side, the tool ate a bit of the aluminum threads (which worried me horribly), but it did re-thread again after removing it and blowing out the very, very small shavings. Iwas careful to make sure it wasn't cross threaded. I turned the crank when it was seated and there was no wobble in the end of the removal screw shaft. When I did the crank side, it was a little more compliant, with little effort to start and screw on, so I know the tool was the correct one.

Concerning the posting of this thread, the non-drive side was the first side I tried, so when I couldn't easily get it going, I was thinking I had some weird threads or something. I'm no bike mechanic, but have wrenched on plenty of other stuff. I know that headset threads can often be very slightly off from one another, depending on the country of origin. That was what had me worried.

Again, thanks to all!!
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Old 10-12-19, 09:58 AM
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Glad you got it figured out and can get on with business
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