sapporoguy

I really wanted to love my pricey new Paul Minimoto brakes. I put them on the front of our 2005 Co-Motion Speedster tandem last fall, hoping for improved braking.
SQUAWK!
I can't get rid of it—a piercing high-db screech that startles passersby. I’ve read all the Minimoto-squeak threads I can find on the forum and tried all tricks. None works.
I emailed Paul 3 times—no response.
Anyone got any solutions?
Ultegra brifters. Velocity Dyad rim. Jagwire cable.
I'd previously had on this bike:
-Shimano V-brakes with a Travel Agent: just OK braking; no squeak.
-Shimano mini-Vs: improved braking somewhat; no squeak.
-Installed Minimotos per instructions. SQUAWK!
What I've tried with the Minimotos:
-Set Salmon Koolstop Thinline pads provided by Paul per instructions on the pad package (flush, given the little wing thing in the back that should give automatic toe-in). SQUAWK!
-Gave them 1mm toe-in (gap in back, using a feeler gauge for accuracy). SQUAWK!
-Gave them 2mm toe-in. SQUAWK!
-Sanded the pads lightly. No squeal for about 10 miles, then back to SQUAWK!
-Installed the black Shimano integrated pads that worked quietly on the Shimano mini-Vs. SQUAWK!
-Installed Shimano cartridge-style unit with salmon Koolstop inserts that don't squeal on my commuter bike. SQUAWK!
-On the above non-standard pads, tried toe-in of 0mm, 1mm, 2mm. SQUAWK, SQUAWK, SQUAWK!
Solution for now:
-Put the Paul-provided Koolstops on the inexpensive Shimano mini-Vs and reinstalled; zero squeal.
-Put the Minimotos in purgatory, in a Ziploc bag on workbench.
Let me know what I'm doing wrong! I really do want to love the Minimotos!

DorkDisk

After cleaning the rim with alcohol, try reverse toe in. As in, the rear hits the rim first

mtreloar

I have the same experience, although I have not tried the many 'solutions' you have. I will try the reverse toe-in suggestion once the snow disappears in the frozen north.

WizardOfBoz

Let's review: two cyclists, same experience. One cyclist has tried just about all solutions including trading out brakes to test the brake pads.

The OP's actions (kudos for your patience, sir!) strongly reflect a bias towards "installation error". That may be possible, but I would start to suspect "design flaw" or "manufacturing defect"?

If you watch the Paul video: https://www.paulcomp.com/shop/compon...akes/minimoto/ it may interesting. First, make sure that you've installed as shown in the pic below and on the video. For example, note that the long part of the brake arm goes to the rear. And make sure that you have the o-ring behind the brake arm. Assuming you've done this.

The video discusses the fact that some bikes (e.g. Vanilla bikes) have what they call a permanent pivot. This is a piece of bar stock that is threaded on the exterior on one end, and on the interior on the other end. The exterior threads into the bike frame and is silver soldered in, apparentlly. The other end has the brake pivot machined in. So with the permanent pivot, you don't use the removeable pivot shown in the pic below. If you had permanent pivots and your bike had threaded pivot receptacles, this would probably be a way to go: you reduce the pivot length (the brake arm pivots closer to the frame, with less pivot lever arm) and the pivot itself is more rigid, being a solid piece of steel. IF the Paul brakes don't work with normal pivot studs, that's a design defect. Also, looking at the brake design, it looks like their design machines a bit too much metal off the arm near the pivot. That's a highly speculative statement on my part, I admit. But squawks are caused by vibration and skinnier parts vibrate more easily that thick parts. Be interesting to compare the metal mass with this brake and another design that is known for not squawking (anyone have a candidate?). If anyone uses these brakes without a permanent pivot and doesn't have squawks, this may be encouraging to the OP.

If you don't have a permanent pivot (and their video states that they're not making any more) then you'd have to make sure that pivot in the pic below has very tight tolerances with the mounting stud, and with the brake arm itself. If the factory drilled out the pivots or the brake arms a bit too much (for example, if the drill on their CNC machine was sharpened a tiny bit off center) or if they turned down the pivot exterior a bit too much, then you have some slack in the mechanical assembly. No amount of shop tricks will fix that problem. It's a manufacturing defect.

I'd write them and ask for a Return Authorization number, telling them you are going to have your credit card charges reversed. This may, uh, motivate them to call you. But be kind. This seems to me to be a small shop. They many not be taking your calls because there's an illness or death in the family.

corwin1968

I also have horrible squealing with a mini-moto on the front of my bike. I did get it to a point where it wouldn't squeal but once I needed to make an adjustment, back to squealing.

Also, the right tension adjuster won't stay tight and the right brake arm beings to lose tension. I've tightened it so tight I was worried I might damage the canti-stud.

If I could replace the brake (the "pivot" won't come off the canti stud), I would have put back on the much superior Shimano Deore V-brake a long time ago.

Luckily, I only bought one Paul brake. I had in mind to buy more of his products because he seems like a good guy and I like what he's doing in the parts world, but after my experience with the moto-lite, I've decided I have no need for any "bling" on my bike.