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How much thread is on the inside of a spoke nipple?

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How much thread is on the inside of a spoke nipple?

Old 04-13-20, 09:23 AM
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bikerbobbbb
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How much thread is on the inside of a spoke nipple?

Is it thread from the very bottom to the very top or only has thread on part of the inside, like the bottom, squared off section?
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Old 04-13-20, 09:27 AM
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All nipples look like this? It's the opposite of what I was thinking.
https://www.kstoerz.com/freespoke/te...engagement.php
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Old 04-13-20, 09:52 AM
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I haven't done the work of the guy in your link, but nipples are not all the same. Some nipples run the threads down deeper than others. I find this make little difference in real terms since the spoke should come up to roughly the bottom of the screwdriver slot at the top so it has engaged all the threads at the top and projects past the rim. (A spoke that is shorter acts to stretch the nipple lengthwise with the threads acting like crack starters. Head pops off the nipple and rattles inside the rim while the spoke goes slack.) Edit: but in answer to your question, yes, all nipples use that format, just the actual dimensions may change a little; The top may have a screwdriver slot or a hex head for a wrench. (A trick for starting nipples in deep rims - make a nipple starter. Cut a spoke in half. Thread a nipple on backwards and get it good and tight with a wrench. Bend a handle onto the other end. To start spokes, thread them lightly onto the protruding threads of your "starter". Stick into the rim hole, then screw the spoke down until you can engage it with your spoke wrench. Grab with wrench and back off the starter. I have two starters, one for 2.0 spokes, one for 1.8s.)

Sometimes I have had the spoke threads run out screwing them into long nipples with a lot of thread. If the spoke is close to being tight enough when this happens, I just force the nipple. The steel spoke will have little trouble expanding the bottom of the soft brass nipple a little. Not ideal. More work to true, harder to re-true later, but it will work just fine and go as long as any other wheel.

It's been a while since I have bought spokes with long nipples. I don't know if anyone uses them now.

Ben

Last edited by 79pmooney; 04-13-20 at 10:00 AM.
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Old 04-13-20, 10:19 AM
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Bill Kapaun
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After all this time posting here, one would have thought you'd have bought something to measure with.
56 tpi. Count the turns and do some 5th grade arithmetic.
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Old 04-14-20, 07:46 PM
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My first thought is Bill's reply. A thin wire or paperclip straightened will serve as a depth rod. Andy
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Old 04-16-20, 09:45 AM
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Pulled out some spokes and nipples from my rear wheel builds. DT Swiss brass nipples, 2.0 x 12mm.

They don't have thread on the square hub side. Thread starts on the round, middle part. And on these the thread continues all the way up above the screw driver notch to the end of the nipple head. Potentially I'd think having the spoke go all the way to the end then would be even stronger. I'll stick to going up to the screw driver slot as still being best though.

I wasn't aware of that on the previous wheel builds, and it's good to know for truing. If I'm seeing thread beyond the nipple, there's maybe another 4-5mm of thread unused under the round part.
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Old 04-16-20, 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by bikerbobbbb View Post
..... And on these the thread continues all the way up above the screw driver notch to the end of the nipple head. Potentially I'd think having the spoke go all the way to the end then would be even stronger. I'll stick to going up to the screw driver slot as still being best though.....
Once you start running the spoke into the screw driver slot, it quits becoming a screw driver slot.
Once you reach the slot, you have enough nipple strength to stretch the spoke to oblivion. You don't need what additional "strength" that would be afforded by threads that are cut by a slot.
On double wall rims, I round up my spoke length because I can run a little long. You just don't want to run so long that you run out of adjustment.
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