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Hub bearing adjustment w/o lock washer

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Hub bearing adjustment w/o lock washer

Old 05-06-20, 03:20 PM
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LeicaLad 
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Hub bearing adjustment w/o lock washer

C&V background. Most hub axles I know are keyed and have ways to lock the adjustment in place.

This is a FH-1055. The axle is not keyed. One side only has what I expect: a pair of nuts, the inner using a cone wrench. The other side has only the lock nut.

I am confused. The adjustment will simply back off and soon you have a loose rear wheel. What keeps the cone setting on this side in place? I have this hub in a wheel set, and it is behaving just like that.

As I like this hub, I pulled the example from my hub supply. They are exactly the same. So, what am I missing here, please?

Thank you.

What I expect to see on the other side, too.

No flat for cone wrench, nor separate threaded nut.
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Old 05-06-20, 03:51 PM
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That is the same freehub body as the one on a DX-650 and MT-62. I just swapped a freehub body a few weeks ago.

Just loosen the NDS and pull the axle out the DS and you see the flats on the cone to loosen the DS; which you really don't have to do because you adjust it from the NDS.

John.
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Old 05-06-20, 04:10 PM
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I'm still confused. I had adjusted the wheel, but the DS nut simply backed off. Suddenly the back wheel is practically flopping.

Now, if I simply tighten it by hand I can bind the bearings by turning too tight. Again, with my fingers.

So, are you saying I need to pull the axle out completely, cranked the DS against the external nut really tight, and then re-install and adjust from the NDS?

?? Not exactly intuitive in a hub design, but I still may be missing something.



I loosen and tighten with my fingers. Too tight and the bearings bind.
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1963 Hetchins Mountain King (the gravel grinder)
1971 Gitane Tour de France (The War Horse) (1 owner)
* 1971 Gitane Super Corsa (The Garage Queen) (crashed out)
1971 Gitane Super Corsa #2 (sweet replacement frame)
1980 Ritchey Touring (The Grail Bike)
1984 Tom Ritchey Team Competition (NOS show bike)
(replacing the stolen 1981 Tom Ritchey Everest custom)
1985 ALAN Record (Glued & Screwed. A gift.)

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Old 05-06-20, 05:03 PM
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Since you loosened the DS, you can loosen the NDS, "if you can", and pull the axle out to service the hub. Keep in mind the ball bearings will fall, stay on the cup race, or hide in the hub. After the service, tighten the DS side first with the correct amount of axle to fit into the dropouts, I think it is around 5.5mm. Make all bearing adjustments from the NDS.

However, you can also remove the locknut from the DS and then back out (unscrew) the DS cone by hand and pull the axle the other way if the NDS won't budge. I've had to do this on occasion. Then put the NDS locknuit in a vise and break it apart there. Be aware that you will drop ball bearings when you pull the axle. You will still re-assemble by setting the DS cone and locknut on the axle and making all bearing adjustments from the NDS.

I can't speak of newer Shimano freehubs, but I have found that pretty typical of older ones.

I can post a picture if that helps.

John

Last edited by 70sSanO; 05-06-20 at 05:07 PM.
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Old 05-06-20, 07:37 PM
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Thank you. Please bear with me here. So, the DS cone needs to be rock solid locked in place. Perhaps even Loctite induced solid. THEN reinsert axle, paying attention to bearings and grease conditions (I'll probably clean and repack), and THEN do final adjustments from the NDS side. The loose cone on the DS is because that side isn't torqued on tight. Yes?

Thanks for the patience. I just don't remember having to do it this way, although most of my hubs are freewheel not freehub.

Again. My thanks.
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1963 Hetchins Mountain King (the gravel grinder)
1971 Gitane Tour de France (The War Horse) (1 owner)
* 1971 Gitane Super Corsa (The Garage Queen) (crashed out)
1971 Gitane Super Corsa #2 (sweet replacement frame)
1980 Ritchey Touring (The Grail Bike)
1984 Tom Ritchey Team Competition (NOS show bike)
(replacing the stolen 1981 Tom Ritchey Everest custom)
1985 ALAN Record (Glued & Screwed. A gift.)

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Old 05-06-20, 08:17 PM
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No problem. Yes you will tighten the DS cone against the DS locknut with the washer in between so that the DS assembly does not move. You would want to get the same amount of threads going into each dropout and at least make sure that the thread do not sit beyond the dropout which I'm sure you are familiar with.

Then it is pretty much like any other cup/cone hub... clean, grease cup, set in bearings (both sides), insert axle from DS, screw on NDS cone, spacer and locknut. Then you just make your adjustments from the NDS. I like to set mine with that little knuckle movement. Hold the NDS cone in place and tighten the NDS locknut. Set in frame and check for any play and go ride.

John
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Old 05-06-20, 08:17 PM
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Cassette hubs are a pain to adjust with the drive side cone buried in the freehub. The last time I overhauled a hub I got the drive side locked up tight, then got the non-drive cone set too tight. Then I put it in the frame with the QR semi-tight and backed off the non-drive cone, making the adjustment more secure.
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Old 05-06-20, 08:58 PM
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If this is what I think it is (basically a traditional axle, cones, right side spacers and locknuts) I would bite the bullet, back off the NDS, then slowly back off the NDS cone with the wheel flat, NDS down, Keep the cone forced into hub. When the axle is completely un-threaded, lay the wheel down on a table, now sitting on that cone. Gently pull the axle up and out from the DS. Now tighten the lock nut tight! against the spacers and cone, tighter than you will ever tighten the NDS from now on. Gently replace the axle, wiggle your hand under the wheel and press your thumb against the cone and screw the axle back in, doing nothing fast and being sure to keep the cone pressed n at all times.

When you feel the cones go tight, now just adjust the NDS locknut and cone as always remembering to NOT (ever) go as tight as you just socked down the DS.

Before you start this, think long and hard about how you are going to set the wheel down on the cone, then pick it up again holding the cone in place. Perhaps a block of wood to balance the cone on; big enough that you can reach your hand under it and perhaps stacked 2X4s at the rim to keep it balanced. If you do this careful;ly there is an excellent chance you won't lose bearing, But one jiggle and you better have a ball bearing control floor surface.

What will mess you up is if the bearings have a light grease that will not keep them in the races. Then there is a good (bad?) chance that the DS bearings will fall through to the ND side. (Take a good look before t=you put the axle back in to make sure all the DS bearnis are there. If not, well at least they are caught by the NDS cone.)

I haven't done this in many years. Now a lot of my wheels are similar layout except there is a cartridge instead of cup and cone. I do the same thing to maike the DS tight and NDS the adjustment side but its been a long time since I have had bearing to deal with. (Still have the loose ball hubs but once this is done, 20-30 years later, I don't even have to think about it. Now I just consider axle, DS cones, spacers and nut a unit. Unless I am replacing cones or re-spacing axles, that unit never gets messed with.

Yes, pain in the you-know-what but it's once in a lifetime (of that hub).

Edit: I see I am late to the party. Not the first time.

Ben
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Old 05-07-20, 08:32 AM
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Gentlemen All,

Thank you. It had been so long since I overhauled one of these hubs, I'd forgotten (too many) details.

I'm good now.

Thank you, again, to each of you.

Cheers,
Owen W
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1963 Hetchins Mountain King (the gravel grinder)
1971 Gitane Tour de France (The War Horse) (1 owner)
* 1971 Gitane Super Corsa (The Garage Queen) (crashed out)
1971 Gitane Super Corsa #2 (sweet replacement frame)
1980 Ritchey Touring (The Grail Bike)
1984 Tom Ritchey Team Competition (NOS show bike)
(replacing the stolen 1981 Tom Ritchey Everest custom)
1985 ALAN Record (Glued & Screwed. A gift.)

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Old 05-07-20, 08:42 AM
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When the bearings are properly adjusted and the wheel is off the bike there should be a small amount of play that goes away when the quick release compresses the axle leaving a slight preload.
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