Campy Record 10 Speed Shifter rebuild problems
 

I got a pair of these for a great price, and now I know why... When I move the right paddle as gently as possible it clicks off 2-3 shifts instead of just one. I've rebuilt the shifter probably almost a dozen times now trying different things. Greasing everything, greasing nothing...

I replaced the G-springs but I think I installed them backwards the first time and maybe bent them?

The weird thing is that the shifters are in really good shape with little apparent wear. The metal part with the notches/splines that control the shifting (red arrow in picture) doesn't appear worn at all. The original grease had turned to a sticky paste, which I thought was the problem. But cleaning everything and re-lubing didn't do any good. Has anyone had this issue and solved it? Did I get a junk shifter? I'm really close to turning these into brake levers... .

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...231a159008.jpg

Maybe the video below could help? I just ordered a pair of Chorus 10sp levers that were "for parts or repair," super cheap, so I plan on trying to rebuild them. Let me know if you ever figure out your issue.

Thanks. I watched a different official Campy video that also included the re-assembly. I think it was pretty clear but I might try a couple different videos to see if I was missing something.

A couple of things come to mind:

• If the G-spring carrier is cracked you can see this type of behavior
• If you tighten the coil spring too much it will exhibit this behavior. You only need to tension the spring enough to have tension on it, no more.

I'd guess the spring is too tight.

But it would be obvious if the G-spring carrier is cracked, right?

The coil spring only goes on one way, no? I followed the Campy video, spring shown at 4:44

Usually you can see the crack, sometimes you need to flex the carrier a little to see if a crack opens. Usually they are obvious

Noticed how they wound up the coil spring with the spring coiling bushing before putting on the retention cover? More than once I've seen someone wind up the spring too much, usually because they missed the first spot the flats will drop in. I've done it too. It only takes about a 1/4 turn, just enough to put some tension on the coil spring.

The Ergopower rebuild instructions are attached.

Thanks for the info and the document. Not trying to change the subject, but is the procedure more or less the same for an 8 speed (pointy hood) Ergopower?

Yes. although
1. The rear lever screw has left hand thread.
2. They don't have a clock spring.
3. Right G-spring carriers were discontinued. I never tried cutting the clock spring post off a newer one to see if it fit.

Thanks for the info. Got the "for parts or repair" 10 speed in the mail today, and I'm starting with them before I move onto the 8 speed (which are currently functioning pretty well).

I took the right hand 10sp apart, and it was absolutely drenched in grease and lube (looks like someone thought dousing it might bring it back to life), so I cleaned everything thoroughly. Then I watched the Camapagnolo re-assembly video, and the only part they grease are the two G springs. Should I assume that everyone puts at least a little grease on the other parts, just to be on the safe side? Or are the G springs really the only parts intended to be lubricated?

I have overhauled about 20 right-hand levers. Not much point in overhauling the left levers, as you shift at least 10x as much on the right as the left, and the left levers never seem to need attention unless crashed.

As far as lube: any part of the shifter internals that are moving/rotating (such as the central shaft) and the G-springs should be lubed with grease. A light coating will do. I use standard marine-grease - not that the brand of grease matters.

Make sure that the G-spring carrier is not cracked: the #1 cause of your symptoms. Next is worn-out springs. Third place is flattened G-springs, where the springs have been compressed or flattened by some process that I cannot explain. Perhaps they were installed backwards or crushed somehow. Finally, the spiral return spring might be tightened too much - it only takes 180 degrees of extra tension on the spring to cause this.

I have never seen the indexing ratchet ring worn out. Even on right levers that have been overhauled 4+ times. They are made of very hard steel.

Thanks everyone for the help. With your advice I was able to get the shifter functioning perfectly! I was winding the coil spring too much. The official Campagnolo rebuild video is actually wrong. I followed it exactly at least a dozen times before finally figuring out how to get the spring tensioned correctly. Now the lever shifts just like the one I bought new that has never been serviced.

The Ergopower stars must have been aligned yesterday, because I got my spare parts in the mail and completed the rebuild of a pair of Chorus 10sp that I picked up cheap. Only needed the return spring for the front paddle, and new G-springs, but I also swapped out the intact metal spring carrier for a plastic one while I was in there. It was a little tricky dealing with the rear springs during reassembly, but ultimately went together well.

I had "practiced" last week on a functional 8sp Mirage right shifter that I got on a used bike, and the 8sp was super easy to work with. After cleaning it out and re-lubing, it feels really smooth with no cable attached (smoother than the Chorus 10sp), but I'll reserve final judgement until both have some cable tension on them.

I've only ever used the 10-speed Veloce and Record Campy shifters. And then, only used them to shift a Shimano 8-speed drivetrain(!) I would not call the Record smooth, but it will bang off a shift quicker and cleaner than anything else. The thumb buttons in particular are relatively high effort. It doesn't surprise me that people that do very long rides with these (1200k Paris-Breast-Paris for example) find it impossible to shift at the end because their fingers physically cannot do it anymore.

I may never do a ride that long. But if I do, I won't have to worry about that because I've "upgraded" to downtube shifters these days. Once I sell my cyclocross racing bike I won't have a brifter left in the fleet.

Smooth as in smooth yet decisive and with some feel, not just low effort and completely muted. In my limited experience the absolute smoothest and best feeling shifting I've felt is the 8-speed Chorus Synchro downtube I have on one of my bikes. It's truly lovely. I also really like the feel of some PowerShift 10sp Veloce levers I have on another bike. That thumb shifter is light and easy compared to the Ultrashift lever, and I think it's an acceptable trade-off for the lack of multiple shifts (and you can bang out rapid succession shifts very quickly anyway).