Creaky BB
 

been chasing an intermittent creak. I replaced the pedals last year and that wasn't it.
Checked seat, handlebars etc. Quite sure it's the BB.
Not so much a creak, more a rubbing on the downstroke of the left pedal. It had been intermittent, now it seems more regular.

Cannondale 2008 CAAD9, 2008 I think. It's all OEM except the changed pedals. So it wouldn't surprise me that the BB needs help.
I bought it 2nd hand and have prolly put 1000 miles on it since I bought it a decade ago.
I'm reasonably comfortable mechanically, setting the chain, crank etc., right and have made them quieter than the tune up my LBS gave it.
Is the BB better to be done by a shop, owing to tools and experience or not a big deal?

Do you know what bottom bracket standard it has? IE: BSA (standard 68mm) or BB30? If its definitely a 2008 it has a BSA. Each would require some tools but the BSA would be mechanically easier to replace. A bottom bracket cup tool and torque wrench to remove and install the bottom bracket. When I replaced my first BB (BSA) it was a little unnerving but its a straightforward job.

hmmm, dunno for sure that it is a 2008, but it is definitely no later. Is there a way to easily check? BB tool seems a low investment and I have access to a torque.
Do I need to replace or lube?

Most LIKELY its a BSA BB, could you post a pic? The BB cup tool is a small investment but you MAY also need a tool to remove the crank. Again if you can post a pic that would help.
I would replace it.

I'll post a little later when I go for a spin. Thanks

At least at bike shops near me, labor to install a new BB is on the order of the price of the BB tool. And you have a good expectation that it'll be fixed right if the shop does it.

I will investigate the LBS as well. But the last LBS did a crap job on a tune up.
They just don't seem to care unless you're dropping 5G on a new sota graphene frame with unobtainium wheels.

Looks like a shimano outboard BB. https://www.bikeradar.com/reviews/bi...-caad9-review/

Caad9 frames I believe came in both BB30 and threaded bottom bracket versions if I recall correctly. Were you going to post of picture of your crank/bottom bracket?

BB photo
 

sorry for the giant bandwidth. don't know how to edit here. I thought it'd be more bite size.
Seems like it's $21ish for the whole thing. Doesn't seem worthwhile to lube/refurb, just replace?
Any really wacky $$$ tools needed other than a torque?
And should or could I use something different?

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...59fd07f30f.jpg

That is a standard Hollowtech 2 external bottom bracket. Lots of options for which specific HT2 BB tool you go with - get the Park Tool one, the Pedro’s, the Shimano, the Abbey Tools, the Unior - if it were me, I’d look for one with a 1/2” drive so you can start it using 2 hands with a T-bar, then finish tightening with a torque wrench. You will need the little plastic spine pre-load tool for the non-drive side and a pretty robust (not rounded end) metric Allen socket or L wrench for the opposing Allen cap screws on the non-drive side crank arm.

this ^^^^

should I replace the whole thing?
Or should I just maintain it?
Seems cheap enough to just replace.

"I’d look for one with a 1/2” drive so you can start it using 2 hands with a T-bar,"
"You will need the little plastic spine pre-load tool for the non-drive side and a pretty robust (not rounded end) metric Allen socket or L wrench for the opposing Allen cap screws on the non-drive side crank arm."
Would you please clarify?

The Pre-load bolt is pictured by itself here and should already be in your crank:
https://www.universalcycles.com/shop...&category=1618

You also need a tool to insert it. You can buy it by itself or as part of park’s BB tool:
https://www.universalcycles.com/shop...8&category=215
https://www.universalcycles.com/shop...6&category=215

The BB tool linked above has it’s own “arm”. Here is one that you attach to a t-bar or torque wrench:
https://www.universalcycles.com/shop...8&category=215

I would replace the BB. You would need the same tools to remove it for service anyway, and if a bike shop was even willing to do it, it would be far more expensive than a replacement.

Got it. The pre-load is in place. I took it out once before to look or grease, I forget. But just used a spread needle nose to remove/replace.
The Park Tool looks good, but I'd guess the one that can attach to a Torque is the better idea?

Should I replace with the same HT2 or is there any reason to use a Durace (or other) instead? Both are fairly closely priced.

If I was sticking with Shimano I would probably go Dura-Ace simply because why not. However my HT2 bottom bracket of choice is from Wheels Manufacturing though I would also happily run one from Chris King if I wanted anodized and Kogel if I wanted ceramic. The IRD Scramjet is also intriguing for bikes that might see more crappy weather or contaminants.