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Chainring replacement

Old 06-22-20, 02:55 PM
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Mmassey338
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Chainring replacement

Normally I would have my LBS do something like this, but Iím out of town in the middle of nowhere, so there is no LBS.

I had a 46/36 front and replaced the 36 with a 34, indexed the rings as before, and reinstalled. Now itís not quite making the shift to the big ring. Do I just need to adjust the front derailleur or did I do something wrong.

Thanks for your help.
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Old 06-22-20, 04:31 PM
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Camilo
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Originally Posted by Mmassey338 View Post
Normally I would have my LBS do something like this, but I’m out of town in the middle of nowhere, so there is no LBS.

I had a 46/36 front and replaced the 36 with a 34, indexed the rings as before, and reinstalled. Now it’s not quite making the shift to the big ring. Do I just need to adjust the front derailleur or did I do something wrong.

Thanks for your help.
Yea, the front derailleur is likely the culprit. The FD should just be a tiny bit (1-2mm?) clear of the big ring. If you're not familiar with installing and adjusting FDs, I recommend finding an online instruction (the manufacture or a generic one like at the Park Tool website). Unhook the cable, loosen the derailleur clamp and follow each step from beginning to end, not omitting anything. It will get you through, height, alignment, cable tension, indexing, etc.

I believe you'll have a well functioning FD in less than 30 minutes, probably 15. But if you aren't experienced, it's really best to start at step one and not skip anything. It's really pretty simple, but there is an order to the process that makes it much simpler to be successful and much easier to figure out where you went wrong if it doesn't work perfectly.
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Old 06-22-20, 04:32 PM
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Steelman54 
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Just did the same thing on my bike, I had a 36 - 48, and went to a 34 - 48, so therefore a new inner ring. My set up is a 10 speed and I found I had to tweak both the front and rear derailleurs. The screw on the front to adjust swing stop point and the cable tension needed a twist or 2 for the rear. Did not seem like this should have been needed, but it was, these 10 and 11 speed setups need to be adjusted spot on to work right. Not hard, but thats the way it is. Of course, it is possible my set up with the 36 - 48 wasn't spot on, but if so, I never noticed.

I'd run thru the front derailler adjustment procedure, will probably fix it.
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Old 06-23-20, 12:15 AM
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tomtomtom123
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Also check for teeth offset difference between the old and new chainrings, which may create different distances between the center of the teeth of the outer and inner rings. If the gap is larger than before then it may be difficult to shift. Depending on which side of the bolt flange the outer chainring is on, you may be able to shim it closer. Standard gap is between 7.5 to 8.0mm.
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Old 06-23-20, 09:31 AM
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Mmassey338
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Thank you all. It just took a slight adjustment to high limit.
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