Thomas15

I don't disagree with you and would go further and say that in many cases we can perform a fix on on just about anything without special tools just regular mechanics tools. Keyword "most". But you are correct as a general statement. And may I say that you are awesome because you can fix bicycles.


But that is not what the OP was asking. Here is a quote from the OP: " I'm not looking for an introductory toolset or things to keep in case of emergency, I'm looking for a full scale list of recommended assets to keep in my personal shop."


Just a quick scan of the responses to this thread would perhaps give the impression that some responders really didn't read the OP?


Food for thought. Where I live there is not a single bike shop that sells parts. Yes there is a retailer and they do repairs but if I want to buy parts I have to travel out of county and 40 miles or so. I work full time, arriving at my workplace at 06:30 leaving at 17:00 So getting to a bike shop is a hassle. Leaving my bike at a bike shop is a hassle. Paying for repairs that I can do by myself is a hassle and I prefer to be self sufficient. I rather work on my bikes than pay someone else to do it. I really don't think I'm in the minority here.


I purchased a 5" bench vice for my son at a flee market for $10. The one on my bench is a 4" that was my grandfathers and it was old when I was young 55 years ago. When I was a kid I laced up my own wheels using the brake pad as a guide to truing the wheels. It worked for me as a kid and it will work for me today but having a truing stand to true my wheels theses days is so nice!!!! Not mandatory but nice!!!


I purchased off Amazon a Derailleur hanger alignment tool for about $55 It is robust and very close to the blue one. In my charge I have 9 bikes every one of them had at least a slight alignment issue. Again not mandatory but the OP wasn't asking for the bare minimum.


Some people like to collect tools. Some people like to stock up on parts. Some people get enjoyment in having a nice well organized and well stocked place to work on their stuff. Can't speak for the OP but for me personally I've always been a DIYer and have a crap ton of quality tools and a few roll outs. Some of my tools I bought when I was a teenager, some were my Dad's and some were my GranDad's. There were many years when my kids were little when I couldn't afford to buy tools or even pay someone to fix my car. But now my kids are grown and me and the little lady have a little in the wallet and so I personally enjoy buying good quality tools even if I cannot see an immediate use for it.


But it is technically correct to say that some tools being mentioned by me and others are not mandatory.

WizardOfBoz

Some general guidelines from my experience. A stand, absolutely. There is a pretty big difference between a real shop stand (with the plate steel base for ballast) and a portable stand But even an inexpensive travel stand is better that trying to do stuff without a stand. In a pinch you can use a simple steel bar stand (a piece of bar stock that is bent into a U shape wide enough to fit around your down tube, then bent to cradle your BB, then splayed out to give stability). The bar stand gets the rear wheel off the floor and lets you cycle through your gears and such. Get something as rigid as you can afford.

Others have mentioned having enough space, and good lighting. A workbench with a vice is nice if you need to do old-school stuff like removing freewheels. But a sturdy workbench, with drawers if possible. Lighting should illuminate the bike stand area and the bench. If you want to do wheelbuilding, a bench that can hold a truing stand without wobbling is nice. Space is expensive, but if you want a hassle-free work environment, its necessary.

This brings up a point. Using hand tools as an example, there's a tradeoff. There's a difference between trying to do stuff with one multitool, and a set of separate wrenches, etc. The trade off is space and cost (mutitool) vs work efficiency (dedicated purpose tools). For tools you use frequently its often best to pay more and get dedicated purpose tools. Maybe an exception is a three-way hex driver like the Park tool. That three-way thing may be almost as easy to use (except for grabbing it in the wrong orientation and having the wrong size hex - every time!*). But generally, its much easier to have a dedicated tool (like each wrench in a set of box/open end combination wrenches rather than an adjustable).

As far as what to get, I'd almost say start with what you have now, and buy tools as you need them. Or get a tool set and be prepared for common tasks. I like Park Tools and you could get one of their sets (an AK-4 is about $350). Beware some of the cheapie tools sets, as they come with more "combination tools" e.g. a tool with folding hex drivers all in the same handle, vs a set of hex drivers each with dedicated handles.

As I said, I like Park tools ok, but I grew up in a machine shop and so for some things (combination wrenchs) I buy older vintage American tools. Just my personal pretentiousness.

The same goes for everything. If you can dedicate a space for your "personal shop" you don't have to put away all of the tools/bikes/parts every time you stop work. If your workbench is "bikes only" you don't have to worry about moving blades from your woodworking table saw around to do bike work. It may not be feasible, but a dedicated space and workbench is really nice if you use the shop frequently. If infrequently, this is overkill. Set up your stand in your garage after moving the car out, lay your tools on a card table, and go to it.

Last, it's really convenient to have a pegboard or other setup where the tools can be hung, visible to you. Even better: outlines of the tools drawn on the pegboard. You can reach for the right tool without fussing around in a drawer, and you can tell in a glance if a tool is missing.

So
1) Good stand
2) Adequate space (Dedicated if possible)
3) Adquate lighting for entire workspace
4) Bench, ideally with drawers and a pegboard back to hold tools
5) Tools, dedicated purpose for frequently used tools

If I ever move from this house, I'd sure like to have a three-car garage, with one bay dedicated to bike stuff. That would be really cool.

zacster

I bought the derailleur alignment tool when I got frustrated with my noise in the rear, and it hit the spokes on the largest cog. I used it that once, got everything in perfect alignment and my bike has been dead quiet ever since (well almost, see below). I tried to use it on another bike but found the thread was different enough that I didn't want to force it. I used it on one other bike that didn't really need alignment, and then just last week again on my main ride, where it was still in alignment from the first time a few years ago. The noise that I had was actually cassette spacers in the wrong place after I removed and cleaned it.

So, why do I say all that? You just don't need that tool for personal use except for that one time. If you think you need it let a shop do it. The cassette tool OTOH you will use often enough that you probably want the one that fits your bike. Luckily they are mostly only in 2 flavors, Campy and Shimano. I have both because I have bikes with both. The Campy one serves as the crank tool too, except that Ultra Torque is totally different than the crank it was used for. I have the Campy bearing puller that I doubt will ever get used again. Oh, a chain whip if you have the cassette tool is essential. Yes, you can wrap an old chain around your hand and do it that way, I did it for years, but the tool costs under $10. You don't need the Park one. A tube of grease is needed but I bought a tube of Phil grease in 1980 and I'm still using it! Cup and cone bearings use more of that than anything else, but who still has cup and cone bearings? Only on vintage, which I did just last week. I have enough to last another 20 years it looks at the rate I use it, or more like 40 as I'm winding down here at 65 years old and won't use much. I have cone wrenches from that same period, headset tool, old hook style bottom bracket tool, pin spanner. I bought all that when I took a bike mechanics course. A lot of it is still barely used.

And unless you work on vintage bikes, and I have a few, you don't need much more than allen wrenches. Threadless headsets? Allen wrenches. Derailleurs and shifters? Allen wrenches. Pedals? Allen wrenches. Seatpost and rails? Allen wrenches. All the bolt ons? Allen wrenches. Crank extractors? Allen wrenches, at least on some. You get the picture.

Edit: Add on a chain tool for when you need to swap chains, but use quick links when you do, and a spoke wrench for an occasional true up if you know how to do it. Neither are expensive.

squirtdad

as to OP comments not about kits etc a) OP has not really provided enough information as to what is intended to provide an such a detail list. as an example: working on new and carbon bikes torque wrench is a must.......old vintage steel less so

IMHO a good kit of tools is a great way to start for a new person beginner and then build from there as needed

and a good stand is essential

of course if money is no object a mere $8k or so will get you everything https://www.parktool.com/product/mas...ry=Tool%20Kits

blacknbluebikes 

lots of things are a given, like metric allen wrenches / hex keys, good lubricant, typical stuff.
Here's what I use *a lot* that is specific to bikes and only bikes:
- portable stand from feedback sports
- small torque wrench with hex key sockets, 2-14nM (such as BBB btl-73)
- chain cleaning rig (such as Park CM 5.2)
Lots of folks will say "you don't have to have this or that..." and I don't have a lot of exotica. But these are things that I do use a lot, over and over.
Chain whip? Bearing Puller/press? Spoke wrenches? Like, almost never.

Iride01 

Not quite everything. I don't think it includes a work stand! But I guess you might have covered that with the

himespau 

A really nice dremel works a lot better for me than a cable cutter when it comes to housing (but I still use the cable cutter for the cables).

fishboat

Perhaps I'm old-school and favor an empirical, pragmatic approach.. If you're working on lots of, or at least some, bikes now then you should have a fair idea of the basic tools needed. As you wrench deeper into bikes you'll need some specialized tools..research them and pick them up as required. You'll gain a better understanding of what's needed and why.

If you're not continually working on a number of bikes..then I'd get started. Metric allen wrenches, cone wrenches, pedal tool, chain tool, spoke wrench, and some grease can take you a long way.

Of course if you're taking a survey of what tools people have, or think is required, that's different.

cpach

I'm going to assume that you're talking about a pro or semi-pro quality setup, and not about a budget one.

If you're spending money, spend on a very good stand. If you don't need portability, a shop stand is worth it. Park stands with metal plates are pretty good. If you REALLY want to get the good stuff, upgrade the clamp with an EVT: https://www.efficientvelo.com/tools/...m-repair-clamp they are a joy to use. If you do need the stand to fold to save space or to move, I like the Feedback Elite stands.

Get a good work bench with a mounted vise. If you don't want to build your own, I got https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 for my personal shop and it's nicer than I expected.

Get a good tool cabinet, and think through your storage system for spare parts.

Also note that a fair quantity of bike maintenance is washing bikes and parts. If possible, it's great to have an outdoor space (and preferably a stand) that you can use to hose down and wash entire bikes, and a sink you can wash parts in.

I'm an actual pro mechanic and have developed some pretty specific tool preferences so I prefer to pick and choose individual tools, but Park tools are generally acceptable at the minimum, and if you want to make shopping easy and save a little money on a pro quality set, https://www.parktool.com/product/mas...ry=Tool%20Kits will cover nearly any possible eventuality, though I could probably put together something cheaper hand picking tools (generally buying non-bike branded general tools is cheaper and often better). Really though shipping is fast these days, so unless you need to turn around things in a couple days it's usually more sensible to get the most basic and commonly used tools and buy more as they are needed.

fietsbob

I help out @ the LBS when needed (i'm Old worked in them in the 80s in the City..)


so they let me use some shop tools other than what I've bought over the past decades..

billnuke1 

Andrew R Stewart 

I haven't read beyond this post, in this thread, so please excuse me if I repeat what's been said since.

This and Mad Honk's advice is at the foundation of what a professional shop starts with. The understanding of the responsibilities and social obligations we live by in a society like our current one. So many good meaning people forget that the chance of a loss of income or personal injury goes beyond the person you are dealing with. It's not always the customer who crashes on your repair job that will sue. Their family or the secondary injured party can too.

"But this will never happen because I am really careful and won't do the bad work that harms someone..." Sure and if you believe this I have a piece of water front property to sell you, it's a deal.

Good people with the best of intentions make mistakes (after 47 years in the LBS I know this so well). People with the best dreams and goals make mistakes while seeking those goals. People make mistakes, bottom line.

Then there's the question of what liability insurance is for. If you believe it is to shelter your assets then you don't get it. It's to make good to those who were hurt. BIG DIFFERENCE.

Of course when the OP decides to take the ethical high road they will find out that most all insurance companies want the business to be legally registered, established with any government rules (like sales tax collection and if a friend helps out they are an employee and also in the line of liability too). Why is this? Because they feel (have experienced before) that a person who slips by the various regs and requirements might also skimp on the easy stuff like building a front wheel with proper spoke tension. Or reusing a brake cable that is already damaged. Andy

veganbikes

My thoughts are this, buy really high quality tools especially in those that you will use often. Hex Wrenches, Screwdrivers (JIS please it is what Shimano uses and works better on Phillips head screws anyway), Torque wrench...are all important candidates for high quality. Life is too short of cheap shoddy tools you have to replace.

Park Tool and Pedro's make decent tools that are good enough for most home mechanics but for some stuff upgrading to Wera, PB Swiss, Snap-On, Abbey Bike Tools...might be the ticket if you value a quality tool and plan on using it more often.

I personally don't recommend buying pre-packaged sets with multiple different tools in it. Buy slowly and get quality stuff and get what is most practical for you and your usage.

branko_76 

Don't forget the "crank remover"......

aggiegrads

I posted this a while back in another tool thread. One thing that the OP hasn’t really given much information on is their budget. How many tools needed depends on the variety of bikes that need service, and the depth of service needed. I could probably run a small shop with the tools in my collection. I maintain all of my family’s bikes (more than ten), neighbor’s bikes, and I refurbish kid’s bikes for a local non-profit.

I would not underestimate the need for shop supplies. You need to invest in rags, lubes, grease, tubes, cables, housing, ferrules, tips, bolts, and a collection of small parts that will prevent you from running to the shop every time that you need a brake pad, grip, or tire.

The arrow ( → ) In the list below is my opinion of increasing quality. It also generally denotes increasing price. The list is somewhat USA centric on the lower end, as I don’t have a ton of experience with XLC, Cyclus, etc. The list is intended to be a resource for buying tools one-at-a-time and making decisions on cost vs quality across the spectrum. Whether fixing bikes is intended to be an enjoyable hobby or a source of income, having good tools will make the work more enjoyable and more efficient. While I agree that you can make do without a work stand, bench vise, truing stand, third hand, bearing press, and other various tools, having these greatly increases efficiency and decreases frustration.

Hex keys:
Pedro’s → Park → Bondhus → Wera, PB Swiss, Wiha, Beta

Cable Cutters:
Pedro’s → Park → Knipex, Felco

Tire Irons:
Park → My own hands → Pedro’s → Schwalbe

General Bike Specific tools:
Birzman, Ice toolz → Feedback → Pedro’s → Park → Hozan, Var → EVT, Abbey

Ratchets, Wrenches, Sockets: Too many to list, but in general:
China → Taiwan → USA, Germany

Pliers:
Harbor Freight, Walmart → Crescent, Irwin, Channel Lock → Klein → Knipex

WizardOfBoz

I see that folks are getting specific here, so let me put in a plug for the Wizard's favorite fine adjustment tool. (Seriously, this model Garland hammer in a moderate size, Garland 31002 or 31003 is a really good non-marring rawihide-faced tool. )

shelbyfv

As others have mentioned, this is a really strange thread. Sort of like someone who can't drive asking what's the "best" car to buy. I wonder if OP might be setting this shop up as a gift to someone? That would be cool!

zacster

Between this thread and the guy that bought a carbon frame to build up himself when he barely knows what a wheel is, I feel like we've hit ultimate boredom from staying at home. Neither of them seem to know which end of a hammer to use.

mrrabbit 

First tool for any bike shop work area...

...bench vise.

Lost count of how many times I've said that to countless people....

=8-)

Pop N Wood

How can you possibly live without spoke wrenches?

blacknbluebikes 

square wheels, well dished.

zacster

Funny, but I used mine today on a bike that belongs to my daughter's friend. She was trying to get the rear brakes to work better, and between suicide levers, flexy levers, flexy calipers, bad pads and steel rims they were almost useless. I put newer pads on, and then tightened the cable, but when I did that it rubbed. I then trued the wheels so they wouldn't rub and now the brakes work better. She can at least press the brake hard without bottoming out.

branko_76 

I assumed the OP is wanting to work on his own bikes.

jacksbike

You are not kidding. I have quite a few tools in my workshop that I only use once or twice a year. But if I need them, I really need them !

Mad Honk 

branko,
Even more reason to have some kind of insurance (smiles!). I was helping out tonight with a friend on a Holley four barrel that had 15 years of old gas varnished up in it. Gm 454 with HEI ignition and I told the story we got at GM tech school about not pulling the plug wires off the spark plugs because it would weld your zipper to the fender. It left a lasting impression on all mechanics who passed through the school. Same kinda stuff applies to bike mechanics. Smiles, MH