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Anti-squeak chain wax additive badly needed.

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Anti-squeak chain wax additive badly needed.

Old 07-11-20, 12:30 AM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by WizardOfBoz View Post
So, an idea. Has anyone ever used a vacuum oven for waxing chains?
I like it. You could use a simpler arrangement of a vacuum sealer with the hot “wet” chain in the bag, or maybe rigging a brake bleeder to a more solid lid and gasket on the crock pot. But what does this do to the solvent ingredients in the lube? Maybe leave those out
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Old 07-11-20, 12:50 AM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by Siu Blue Wind View Post
In al fairness, I did not see where he was asked to "butt out of the thread". Although he did reply with crudeness and name calling. That goes against the forum guidelines, hence, me asking him to leave the thread.
Post #8

How about you do what you do, and we'll continue to do what we do. If you don't use wax on your chain, I'm afraid you've stumbled into the wrong thread. Try a different one.
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Old 07-11-20, 05:29 AM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by Darth Lefty View Post
I like it. You could use a simpler arrangement of a vacuum sealer with the hot “wet” chain in the bag, or maybe rigging a brake bleeder to a more solid lid and gasket on the crock pot. But what does this do to the solvent ingredients in the lube? Maybe leave those out
This is interesting. I have also thought about such an apparatus. A way to get wax all the way into the rollers. I have a universal brake bleeder tool laying around, but come to think of it- it might not be very feasible because to get a good vacuum seal (at least with brake fluid) you would have to pull up some of the (hot) liquid wax into the pump itself which would solidify as it cooled, thus wrecking the internals of the brake bleeder pump I think. It might be worth fooling around with it anyway to see if the air could be purged from a collapsible silicon high heat zip-lock kitchen bag with a universal nozzle attached. I think the aquarium type pump on an inexpensive food sealer with silicon bags might work better. Somebody, maybe Silca or Molten Speed Wax are you listening?
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Old 07-11-20, 06:03 AM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by masi61 View Post
This is interesting. I have also thought about such an apparatus. A way to get wax all the way into the rollers. I have a universal brake bleeder tool laying around, but come to think of it- it might not be very feasible because to get a good vacuum seal (at least with brake fluid) you would have to pull up some of the (hot) liquid wax into the pump itself which would solidify as it cooled, thus wrecking the internals of the brake bleeder pump I think. It might be worth fooling around with it anyway to see if the air could be purged from a collapsible silicon high heat zip-lock kitchen bag with a universal nozzle attached. I think the aquarium type pump on an inexpensive food sealer with silicon bags might work better. Somebody, maybe Silca or Molten Speed Wax are you listening?
"This is interesting. I have also thought about such an apparatus. A way to get wax all the way into the rollers."

What make you believe a simple dip doesnt achieve that to begin with?

Imo you issues are compounded by several factors. - A lube that is too brittle and flakes off, low affinity to metal leading to more flaking and too low viscosity, not allowing flaked or scraped off wax to replaced (it doesnt move around like Oil and grease does).
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Old 07-11-20, 06:40 AM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by wgscott View Post
Well, that settles that.

Put another way.. an acquaintance tells me the 'waxers' just usually have no life.
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Old 07-11-20, 06:59 AM
  #56  
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I believe that I've posted this before. If you're that serious about waxing, a specific wax blend might improve the results. One of the issues may be unreasonable expectations for wax life. With the liquid wax lube that I use, I'd rather be conservative and relube after 3 rides or 150 miles. Since it only takes a couple of minutes and requires no chain removal. Heavy weight gear lube improves lubricity, whether in hot wax or a liquid wax.

https://blendedwaxes.com/product/paraffin-wax/
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Old 07-11-20, 08:55 AM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by Siu Blue Wind View Post

I invite you to be on our moderation team.
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Old 07-11-20, 08:58 AM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by Siu Blue Wind View Post
I

I'd love to have you on board with the moderation team, though. We need people that can moderate the ****fest that happens when things like name calling and rudeness are allowed. I have a feeling that you can contribute a different style of balance.
...no one has ever written that to me. I have a natural balance that is often referenced as "special".
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Old 07-11-20, 09:03 AM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by 3alarmer View Post
...no one has ever written that to me. I have a natural balance that is often referenced as "special".
...just one example:

In the history of this forum, there is no topic that has eaten up more bandwidth than the lubrication and life extension of what is, for many, a disposable bicycle part that can be obtained, (online and in a high quality version,) for 12 bucks. I these threads. They make me feel very, very special.
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Old 07-11-20, 09:06 AM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by Aladin View Post
Put another way.. an acquaintance tells me the 'waxers' just usually have no life.
...it's a discipline. A life devoted to a discipline is not "no life", rather a life of discipline.

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Old 07-11-20, 09:13 AM
  #61  
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You mean.. same as a flock of monks clustered in a monastery.. doing 'all' at all hours.

Bet.. a form of 'waxing'.
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Old 07-11-20, 10:09 AM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by DrIsotope View Post
Discourse ≠ debate. No one asked to have to "defend the honor of chain waxing." The OP asked about additives for hot waxing-- abandoning hot wax for something else entirely isn't really an answer. Very, very few posts in this thread have provided on-topic responses.
New to the internet and opposing ideas in a thread? Come on, your original reply to him was uncalled for. I have always respected your comments and posts, but you were out of line.
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Old 07-11-20, 10:15 AM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by Siu Blue Wind View Post
Only one so far. The person that called someone a name (or two).

I invite you to be on our moderation team.
He was asked to leave the thread BEFORE he called anyone names. BEFORE. Not that I am condoning the calling of names in the later post, but he was asked to leave BEFORE. Please redirect the blame to the person who asked him to leave, after he made a simple alternative suggestion, that while the OP may not have been interested, others may, me for one. I suggested against what he posted, but then he came back and explained the product he used, and I learned something. That is what this forum is about. The product he suggested actually would work well. This is not to say someone cannot wax their chain, or use regular bike chain lube, but it is an alternative.

Just like the fact that I do not at the moment wax my chains, but I read these threads to learn, because maybe one day I will want to do so.
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Old 07-11-20, 10:21 AM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by phughes View Post
As a longtime motorcyclist with cans of that stuff in my garage, I would not, and do not use it on my bicycles. It works great on a motorcycle where the chain is being driven at high speed, and gets hotter, but on a bike, no. What it is great at on the bicycle, is drying to a nice sticky substance that allows dirt to be trapped on the chain. It is annoying to clean off. Use a bicycle lube, or plain oil if you want an oil based chain lube. For waxing, you may need to use some sort of oil based additive to your wax.
I gotta admit, I'm becoming disillusioned with my use of my last can of Motul motorcycle chain lube on my bicycles. It's great when first put on and for several rides after that, but it becomes sandpaper after some time. It does keep rims clean, though.

Edit to add: There I go replying to the middle of a thread again before seeing that the course has changed. I gotta quit using this broken compass.

Last edited by FiftySix; 07-11-20 at 10:34 AM.
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Old 07-11-20, 11:06 AM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by Aladin View Post
You mean.. same as a flock of monks clustered in a monastery.. doing 'all' at all hours.

Bet.. a form of 'waxing'.

...monks are prohibited from flocking.
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Old 07-11-20, 11:29 AM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by 3alarmer View Post
I've always wondered what TimH looked like.
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Old 07-11-20, 11:38 AM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by DrIsotope View Post
Very, very few posts in this thread have provided on-topic responses.
Well, that brings up a point. When you wrap your handlebars, make sure that EVERY turn is tight. Don't allow any turns where no turns of the tape are not taut against the bar. I think that this definitive word should obviate the need for futher, less informed posts on my subject.
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Old 07-11-20, 11:41 AM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by 3alarmer View Post
...it's a discipline. A life devoted to a discipline is not "no life", rather a life of discipline.
Not every discipline is productive, IMHO.

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Old 07-11-20, 11:45 AM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by reburns View Post
I decided to try this lube last year on our tandem and really liked the smooth feel of the drivetrain during at least the first few miles after application. It’s very clean and it claims to be moisture resistant. I decided this would be my new go to lube, switching from Prolink which I’ve used for many years. Then we went on a multi-day tour where we experienced a couple of rain showers. The drivetrain remained silent and felt good, so I didn’t re-lube or inspect the chain until we returned home. When I went to re-lube, I realized that the chain had some surface rust stains. I decided to measure and realized that I was already at 0.5% stretch with just 1400 miles on the chain. (Other than the 300-400 mile tour, I had been re-lubing with Chainsaver every 100-200 miles) With Prolink my tandem chains go 3500 miles before getting to that point. Now I’m back to Prolink as my chain lube, but wondering if Chainsaver as the lube with then a wipe down of Prolink or Boeshield for corrosion resistance might give me the best of both worlds: super smooth running without the risk of rust or premature wear? I suppose that all wax based lubes are only appropriate for reliably dry conditions.
I don't know - there are a lot of variables and they interact. I've got about 1500 miles on my chain and it's shifting pretty well still, Will have to measure it.

I don't think that waxes are only for dry conditions, though, Wax and oil are both hydrophilic. It's possible that the lubricant does emulsify with road salt, detergent from washing the bike, etc. Would probably be easier to remove oil that way than wax.

I'm gonna measure my chain now.
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Old 07-11-20, 12:07 PM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by WizardOfBoz View Post
Not every discipline is productive, IMHO.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NWsgBqNuVEk
...I guess if you can get it to the point where you can't feel anything down there, it's easier to be a monk.
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Old 07-11-20, 12:14 PM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by 3alarmer View Post
...I guess if you can get it to the point where you can't feel anything down there, it's easier to be a monk.
You'd also save a lot of time and money looking for that "perfect" saddle.
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Old 07-15-20, 02:25 PM
  #72  
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Here is the wax brick as it looks after drying in a silicon bread mold:



It is darker on the bottom side which is facing up. I’m not sure if some of the dark material is comprised of dirt or if the dark color is just the PTFE and Molybdenum additive in the Molten Speed Wax. I use the rectangular scraper to scrape off a layer or 2 of the darkest wax into the trash thing that I saw some metallic sediment in there.
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