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Advice on Fuji Absolute Forza, 8 sp

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Advice on Fuji Absolute Forza, 8 sp

Old 07-20-20, 04:30 PM
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dtech
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Advice on Fuji Absolute Forza, 8 sp

I believe the bike maybe 15 yrs old or so, it is aluminum frame, I have ridden it extensively (200 + miles weekly) , replacing rear cassettes multiple times, rear derailluer and the crank bearings and chain rings. Now the 8 speed trigger shifter is giving it up - the spring is weak (I would clean and lube the shifters periodicaly) , the large chain ring also needs replacing, I have the following questions :
- how stressed might the aluminum frame be at the point, I go some 190 lbs.
- can I convert the 8 speed to 10 speed by replacing chain, chain ring, shifter and rear cassette, and would the rear derailluer also need replacing ?
- or should I just keep it a 8 speed.
I do my own work and when needed have replaced the original shimano ultegra components with dura ace

advice/opinions are welcome, I tend to ride my bikes until there isn't much left in them, had a viscount aerospace with the old thin tubes that I rode for many years and miles, but if it's wise not to put $$ into the Fuji and look for a new bike I'm listening.
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Old 07-20-20, 05:25 PM
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Iride01
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- how stressed might the aluminum frame be at the point, I go some 190 lbs.
Probably okay. At 190, I'd think you well within what the mfr designed for. You don't do trick riding or jump cars with it do you?
- can I convert the 8 speed to 10 speed by replacing chain, chain ring, shifter and rear cassette, and would the rear derailluer also need replacing ?
Even if you do have to, DR's aren't that much money.
- or should I just keep it a 8 speed.
2x? Well 2 speeds might add four ratios you don't have now. going to 11 speed might give you more too but of course your components usually go up in price a tad.
I do my own work and when needed have replaced the original shimano ultegra components with dura ace
The other thing to consider is if you just want a new bike. Except for expensive light weight wheels, nothing you change will dramatically lighten it. So though it sounds like you can upgrade it inexpensively........ would you want something that won't give you much more bang than you already have. A lighter bike by 3 or 4 pounds will have you wondering where those hills are that used to give you trouble.
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Old 07-20-20, 06:58 PM
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Appreciate the reply, funny you mention the wheels because the bike came with alex rims - still have the front but the rear wheel would pop spokes from earlier so replaced that with mavic open pro and all good.

I need to research what gottchas there can be in going from an 8 speed to a 10 speed from a fit perspective as I'm likley going to buy the components online and yes at 68 yrs old my legs are showing signs of aging so 10 speeds might alleviate that some.

I remember upgrading my viscount aerospace from a double crank sprocket to a triple to deal with riding mtn passes in CO but it never shifted quite as well - back then the shifters were handle bar mounted.

thanks again for your reply
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Old 07-20-20, 07:30 PM
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I upgraded a 1991 Paramount to 11 speed 105 about four or so years ago. It resulted in a bike that weighed more or less about what it did when new, 22.5 lbs. I didn't go with Ultegra which might have saved me a pound of weight. Nor was I willing to shell out for wheels that might have saved me another pound and a half. I was about to do the same with my 1979 Raleigh Competion G.S. and bought all the components. Just about the time I got the frame stripped and ready for paint, I got to thinking about the weight issue. Frame and fork weighed virtually the same as my Paramount so I knew I wouldn't be getting much back except a really nice looking bike.

So with a birthday coming up and my wife's approval, I went out and got my first new bike in over 41 years. It's five pounds lighter and boy does that make a difference in my climbing times and how much energy I have left for the end of long rides. I'm only 62 and I like to ride at a high intensity. If you are riding at a high intensity, you might find that a lighter bike adds to your enjoyment and makes you want to ride even more. I has for me.

As for how much more 10 speeds will help your aging legs? Not as much as 5 pounds of bike weight will.... IMO. Especially if you are in anything more than flat terrain.
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Old 07-21-20, 09:56 AM
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I've had good luck mixing drivetrain parts with different gear ratios. Derailleur is more a function of gear range than # of speeds. As for front chain rings, I run a 10 speed Campy crank with a 6 speed Shimano freewheel and chain, so I don't understand what difference the number of rear gears has to do with the front chain rings. I would think all you need is the cassette, chain and shifter to get 10 rear gears. New cables all around of course.
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Old 07-21-20, 11:13 AM
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You might also consider going to 9 speed instead.
Research the various cassettes that are available with the tooth counts you can USE.
11T cogs don't do any good if you never use them.
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Old 09-09-20, 02:08 PM
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appreciate all the advice/opinions I decided to go to a 9 speed and replace front chain ring (I think 10 sp version will work, but correct me should I be wrong) rear cassette, chain and shifter. All of these were in need of replacement soon and the shifter was pretty much broke.

The issue I'm facing though is finding replacement parts - they are limited and many are currently out of stock. It is mind boggling how many different parts are used in today's bikes, my chain ring is 130 mm , 5 bolt and 52T , not easy to find this but when I order all of this I'm hoping it all works well together, I can see why many people take their bikes to the shop.
thanks
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Old 09-09-20, 02:34 PM
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9 Speed is safe in that you don't have to worry about any compatibility problems with the RDER.
You can even use a "mountain" type if you want Bigger cogs than the "road" type can handle. More chain wrap a & largest cog capacity.

I'd use your existing RDER. It shouldn't give any problems going from 8 to 9. You can always upgrade later if it doesn't shift "good enough".
Both my 9 speeds have 8 speed RDER's and no problems.

I'm too ignorant on "road stuff" to know if there are any caveats per mounting for a "generic" 50-53T ring. I think "some" models may?
You might provide the model #'s of your crank etc. so someone more knowledgeable would know what worked or didn't.
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