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Please critique my shopping list

Old 07-30-20, 07:34 PM
  #1  
uoficowboy
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Please critique my shopping list

I'm trying to fix up my bicycle. Drivetrain is pretty shot. Brakes are very shot. Handlebar tape is shot. This is my shopping list currently:

Shimano CS-HG400 9-Speed Cassette (Silver) (11-32T) $26.49
EFC4703EX090 - Shima``no Tiagra 4703 10-Speed Crankset (175mm) (30/39/50t) $91.99
EBBRS500B - Shimano BB-RS500 Hollowtech II Threaded Bottom Bracket (68mm/English) $17.99
F1804001 - fizik Tempo Bondcush Soft Handlebar Tape (Black) (3mm Thick) $27.99
Sram PC-991 Chain 9 Speed (Silver) $19.99
Shimano Road PTFE Brake Cable Set PTFE Coated Set (Black) $29.00
Shimano CX-50 Cyclocross Brakes Front or Rear (Silver) $33.99

My bicycle is a Jamis Aurora from 2007.

How does this list look? Is there anywhere I'm going too cheap? Essentially my goal is strength but not weight. So I don't care if a part is heavy, I just want stuff to last. Does anybody see any compatibility issues?

Thank you!
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Old 07-30-20, 07:53 PM
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If you're replacing bar tape and brake cables on a bike that old, go ahead and replace the brake cable housing. Replace the shifter and cable housing as well if the bike has had significant use.
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Old 07-30-20, 08:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Rogerogeroge View Post
If you're replacing bar tape and brake cables on a bike that old, go ahead and replace the brake cable housing. Replace the shifter and cable housing as well if the bike has had significant use.
You may be surprised at how much improvement new cables and housings will make in both shifting and braking performance. I would also install Kool Stop Salmon brake pads; the OEM ones are OK but Kool Stop are superior in my experience.
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Old 07-30-20, 08:56 PM
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Originally Posted by uoficowboy View Post
I'm trying to fix up my bicycle. Drivetrain is pretty shot. Brakes are very shot. Handlebar tape is shot. This is my shopping list currently:

Shimano CS-HG400 9-Speed Cassette (Silver) (11-32T) $26.49
EFC4703EX090 - Shima``no Tiagra 4703 10-Speed Crankset (175mm) (30/39/50t) $91.99
EBBRS500B - Shimano BB-RS500 Hollowtech II Threaded Bottom Bracket (68mm/English) $17.99
F1804001 - fizik Tempo Bondcush Soft Handlebar Tape (Black) (3mm Thick) $27.99
Sram PC-991 Chain 9 Speed (Silver) $19.99
Shimano Road PTFE Brake Cable Set PTFE Coated Set (Black) $29.00
Shimano CX-50 Cyclocross Brakes Front or Rear (Silver) $33.99

My bicycle is a Jamis Aurora from 2007.

How does this list look? Is there anywhere I'm going too cheap? Essentially my goal is strength but not weight. So I don't care if a part is heavy, I just want stuff to last. Does anybody see any compatibility issues?

Thank you!
No new chain?

All consumables.
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Old 07-30-20, 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by merziac View Post
No new chain?
See item #5
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Old 07-30-20, 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by uoficowboy View Post
Brakes are very shot.

Thank you!
Why and how are the brakes shot? 99.9999% of brake issues can be corrected by new cables/housing and brake pads. And proper setup.
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Old 07-30-20, 09:17 PM
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I question the gearing, unless you don't need to climb hills and stuff, especially with luggage for touring. If so, and you are set on the cassette with a 32 tooth low gear, I would rather have a small front chain ring in the neighborhood of 24-26T, and then size the middle and large chain rings proportionally, like 36T and 46T. But that's just me.
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Old 07-30-20, 09:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Rogerogeroge View Post
See item #5
Doh! Sram averse.
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Old 07-30-20, 09:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Rogerogeroge View Post
Why and how are the brakes shot? 99.9999% of brake issues can be corrected by new cables/housing and brake pads. And proper setup.
I understand your concern. I've tried both of what you suggest and have not been able to get a longstanding fix for them. I want brakes that can stop hard and that don't make my ears bleed. I've only been able to get one or the other. And if I've chosen brakes that make me stop they stop doing that after maybe 50 miles and I have to re-adjust. I am also going to try sanding down my rims as I think their roughness makes me go through pads faster which exacerbates the issue.
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Old 07-30-20, 09:56 PM
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Originally Posted by DeadGrandpa View Post
I question the gearing, unless you don't need to climb hills and stuff, especially with luggage for touring. If so, and you are set on the cassette with a 32 tooth low gear, I would rather have a small front chain ring in the neighborhood of 24-26T, and then size the middle and large chain rings proportionally, like 36T and 46T. But that's just me.
You're suggesting no change in the cassette, but only in the crankset, right?

I've been running almost this gearing (except with 52 42 30 in the front) for a number of years and have not had issues climbing serious hills while keeping my cadence at something manageable. A couple times going down hills the gearing wasn't fast enough (I'd hit 120 (or 140? I forget) cadence and pretty much just be pedaling in the air).
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Old 07-30-20, 09:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Rogerogeroge View Post
If you're replacing bar tape and brake cables on a bike that old, go ahead and replace the brake cable housing. Replace the shifter and cable housing as well if the bike has had significant use.
I believe the kit I linked to includes new housing. Yeah I definitely intend to replace the brake housing and cable - they're definitely rusted. They're about 10 years old.
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Old 07-30-20, 10:03 PM
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Originally Posted by uoficowboy View Post
I've tried both of what you suggest and have not been able to get a longstanding fix for them. I want brakes that can stop hard and that don't make my ears bleed. I've only been able to get one or the other. And if I've chosen brakes that make me stop they stop doing that after maybe 50 miles and I have to re-adjust. I am also going to try sanding down my rims as I think their roughness makes me go through pads faster which exacerbates the issue.
You're doing something wrong. You've replaced the cables/housing and pads? If they squeal, they're set up incorrectly. If they have to be adjusted after 50 miles, they're set up incorrectly. Setting up cantilever brakes can be finicky. Pad alignment and movement to the rim should be symmetrical for both sides. Most ear bleed can be cured by slightly toe-ing in the brake pads.
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Old 07-30-20, 10:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Rogerogeroge View Post
You're doing something wrong. You've replaced the cables/housing and pads? If they squeal, they're set up incorrectly. If they have to be adjusted after 50 miles, they're set up incorrectly. Setting up cantilever brakes can be finicky. Pad alignment and movement to the rim should be symmetrical for both sides. Most ear bleed can be cured by slightly toe-ing in the brake pads.
Yes i've replaced cables, housings, and pads. I've also had reputable bike shops do the work for me. I can defintiely make it OK... but it's always temporary - very temporary. I'm starting fresh. Maybe it'll still suck, but at this point I'm' ready to throw out this bicycle and get one with disk brakes if this doesn't fix it.
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Old 07-31-20, 01:25 AM
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Anyhow, that all looks fine. I'd probably do a Shimano chain on a Shimano crank/cassette, though the Sram will work. You can always get a KMC missing link for a Shimano chain if you want.
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Old 07-31-20, 01:55 AM
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Originally Posted by uoficowboy View Post
You're suggesting no change in the cassette, but only in the crankset, right?

I've been running almost this gearing (except with 52 42 30 in the front) for a number of years and have not had issues climbing serious hills while keeping my cadence at something manageable. A couple times going down hills the gearing wasn't fast enough (I'd hit 120 (or 140? I forget) cadence and pretty much just be pedaling in the air).
If you haven't had issues climbing, then ignore what I said. I've run a 2x, 26/38T crankset with a 10-42 cassette where I only used the 26T climbing a mountain grade while loaded. The 38T was my main chain ring, and even though I have a triple crankset, I had no larger 3rd chain ring because I don't try to pedal really fast downhill. I would spin out at around 27mph, which is plenty fast enough for me. I ​​​​​since changed to a 30/46 crankset, but I don't enjoy it as much as the 38T I used as a virtual 1x. I moved to flatland and haven't spun out in my top gear yet. A cadence of 90 or so is plenty fast pedaling for me.

You ride differently than I do, and that's definitely cool. I'm thinking about my next (gravel) bike, and running a 1x, 42T chain ring with a 9-46 or maybe a 10-50 cassette. I'm more interested in climbing ability on long grades and happy to coast downhill.
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Old 07-31-20, 08:46 AM
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Own all the needed tools ? , a proper cable cutter for one..
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Old 07-31-20, 10:36 AM
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I sure would not be buying a triple crankset many other ways to get same gearing and not have a triple.
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Old 07-31-20, 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by deacon mark View Post
I sure would not be buying a triple crankset many other ways to get same gearing and not have a triple.
Why the hate for the triple? Regardless my brifter is set up for a triple so I think I'm fairly committed to that.
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Old 07-31-20, 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by uoficowboy View Post
Why the hate for the triple? Regardless my brifter is set up for a triple so I think I'm fairly committed to that.
If you get a triple that you like and dialed in then no hate. I just see a double as less weight and easier to set up. Also you have $250 in this possible upgrade to 10 or 11 speed new. If you can afford the extra I think you are better off. Would not be a lot more money.
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Old 07-31-20, 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by deacon mark View Post
If you get a triple that you like and dialed in then no hate. I just see a double as less weight and easier to set up. Also you have $250 in this possible upgrade to 10 or 11 speed new. If you can afford the extra I think you are better off. Would not be a lot more money.
I don't mind the weight Makes me work that much harder to catch up with the carbon fiber boys.

To go up to a higher speed count cassette I'd need to upgrade both derailleur and brifter which is starting to get pretty darn spendy

Honestly kinda like the triple though, anyway. It's fun having a granny gear. I almost never use it but it's so great when I do need it!
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Old 07-31-20, 11:52 AM
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[QUOTE=uoficowboy;21617071]I don't mind the weight Makes me work that much harder to catch up with the carbon fiber boys.

To go up to a higher speed count cassette I'd need to upgrade both derailleur and brifter which is starting to get pretty darn spendy

Honestly kinda like the triple though, anyway. It's fun having a granny gear. I almost never use it but it's so great when I do need it![/QUOTE

just search ebay 10 sp groupset. I found Tiagra 4700 for $275 including shipping.
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Old 07-31-20, 02:32 PM
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man, looks good. Should be a new bike and a great afternoon of wrenching.

Only thing I might change is get a set of Jagwire brake cables. Good stuff and they come in colors. But that is just a personal choice thing

https://www.universalcycles.com/shop...s.php?id=59718
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Old 07-31-20, 07:05 PM
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Originally Posted by deacon mark View Post
If you get a triple that you like and dialed in then no hate. I just see a double as less weight and easier to set up. Also you have $250 in this possible upgrade to 10 or 11 speed new. If you can afford the extra I think you are better off. Would not be a lot more money.
I agree, but for additional reasons. No matter how well you think your triple is 'dialed in', the performance won't match today's performance with 2x shifting. And I think that's the biggest difference-maker. Especially if you can match the same low gear ratio that you need.
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Old 07-31-20, 09:37 PM
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Shimano CS-HG400 9-Speed Cassette (Silver) (11-32T) $26.49 (Make sure this is the right gearing for you I like the 11-34 on my touring bike)
EFC4703EX090 - Shima``no Tiagra 4703 10-Speed Crankset (175mm) (30/39/50t) $91.99 Make sure this is the right gearing for you unfortunately not a ton of great touring triples in hollowtech II but plenty of square taper.
EBBRS500B - Shimano BB-RS500 Hollowtech II Threaded Bottom Bracket (68mm/English) $17.99 Wheels MFG Angular Contact BB (really nice quality, MUSA and will last a while longer) or IRD Defiant or SKF JIS (if going square taper)
F1804001 - fizik Tempo Bondcush Soft Handlebar Tape (Black) (3mm Thick) $27.99
Sram PC-991 Chain 9 Speed (Silver) $19.99
Shimano Road PTFE Brake Cable Set PTFE Coated Set (Black) $29.00 Jagwire Road and Shift Pro Cable Kit (if you are replacing tape replace everything)
Shimano CX-50 Cyclocross Brakes Front or Rear (Silver) $33.99 Paul MiniMotos (really excellent stopping power and they look purdy and work on short pull)

I would probably at this point do a full overhaul since you are almost doing that anyway. Pull everything and clean and re-grease as needed or replace any bearing that are shot or near end of life.

The Jamis Aurora is a fine bike, I have a frame that is way too small for me but have built it up pretty nicely for someone just waiting on them to buy it.
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Old 08-01-20, 12:19 AM
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A triple crankset is tricky enough to get dialed in without the complication of mixing 10 and 9 speeds.
You can get a Sora 3x9 crankset. It's Hollowtech II and you get to keep it all in the 9 speed family.
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