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1999 GT Virage Assistance

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1999 GT Virage Assistance

Old 08-02-20, 07:19 AM
  #1  
knightblaze
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1999 GT Virage Assistance

Greetings all - been awhile since I posted.

I recently purchased a GT Virage Hybrid (20 year old bike), its a sleek looking bike for the period and want to fix it up as a project of mine. It was in semi rough shape, aired up the tires and gave it a spin but I think the original Shimano Nexave Shifters are toast. I realigned the rear derailleur using the H/L screws and re-indexed but its hit or miss (sometimes the shifter will actually shift, others it just free moves up and down with no tension on it). Tried cleaning the right shifter (7 speed) it made it a little better but still doesn't work like 40% of the time. RD probably needs to get swapped as well, its attached to the frame and doesn't use a hanger.

I'd like to get new shifter/brake combo + new rear derailleur but not quite sure whats the best route to go. I know generally that there is some compatibility i need to look out for. I counted the cassette and its 7 speed, but online it says 8....so not sure if it was replaced at some-point or what. The goal is to eventually replace the crank, FD, and Front Chainrings/Cassette (3 speed) as well. I can do some of this but I'm probably going to rely on an LBS for some of the work as I don't have all the tools. The other mystery is I don't know if its a freewheel or cassette...but I can probably take the rear off and check.

Basically looking for recommendations on what specific components I should look for. I'm used to swapping relatively recent stuff as the parts I purchase were ones that were on the bike. Does it matter if its a 7 or 8 speed when selecting RD and Shifters?

Bluebook Specs on the bike
https://www.bicyclebluebook.com/valu...product/86162/


Pic of the bike.
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Old 08-02-20, 07:36 AM
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Looks like you want to put the saddle nose down a bit (ouch!).
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Old 08-02-20, 07:38 AM
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lol - yeah that was the sellers pic, I already adjusted it down (and yes...it wasn't comfortable), have to replace that as well since the groove is broken on the one side.
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Old 08-02-20, 08:10 AM
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Those older shimano shifters can most likely be revived by cleaning out
the old gummed lube and relubing with fresh light grade lube. Taking
the shifter plastic covers off will let you get to the pawl and spring
mechanism, hose it with solvent, and get them clicking again.
Recommend keeping the number of speeds matching between the
shifter mech and the rear cluster. That version of shifter is most likely
7 speed so keep the rear cluster 7 speed.
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Old 08-02-20, 08:27 AM
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Did you lube or replace the cables?
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Old 08-02-20, 09:36 AM
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Onsay99
I tried to clean it the best i could, the problem is that they do not come apart. I have a curved piece of plastic that I can bend back only so much, but I sat there for hours trying to figure out how to pull it apart and I think it's a one piece (ie cable is attached at factory and can't be removed which adds to the problem). I did clean it as best as I could but it just seems like its missing/not catching at times so the lever moves freely :|. At least now it springs back instead of being locked where it was.

Thinking of using the Shimano Tourney EF41 Dual Control Levers as they come 3x7.

aggiegrads
I haven't done that yet - given that most of them are exposed it should be simple and the front/rear pull cable covers. I'll say they move when they move, and its spot on when it does. I'll give em a clean.

Last edited by knightblaze; 08-02-20 at 09:52 AM.
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Old 08-02-20, 10:03 AM
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Yes the plastic cover is easy to remove, but you do have to disconnect the
gear wires at the derailleurs and pull them through the shifters. Sorry for my
assumptions but I have fixed many of these levers and once the cable is
removed, access to the metal parts is a cinch by removing the plastic
cover. These shifters use a normal shimano gear wire if you want to go
ahead and replace them while doing this project.
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Old 08-02-20, 05:48 PM
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onsay99

Honestly didn't think of doing it that way - I'll plan that for next weekend as I did a WD40 soak and White Lightning post sitting for a few hours today. Definitely getting responsive shifting much better than before. I"ll also do the wire cleaning when it's pulled. It's looking better and better that I can salvage them and not drop big money into it. Not gonna lie it needs some work like the chain ring (two broken teeth), so I'd rather put my money there if i have to but so far it isn't noticeable


Appreciate everyone's assistance, definitely helpful and good to know I have resources here
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Old 08-02-20, 07:01 PM
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I just worked on some of those shifters today and yes, the key is removing the cable and barrel adjuster, if so equipped. Use a dental pick to get the pawls moving. A drop of penetrating oil sometimes works better than WD.

By the way, it looks like the front canti yoke may be too high for good braking. If the front brake is weak, lower the yoke (let cable out) and extend the shoes in. See Sheldon Brown's article on cantis for clarification.

Are you sure the missing chain ring teeth aren't shifting aids? Those often look like unusual wear.
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Old 08-02-20, 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by knightblaze View Post
onsay99

Honestly didn't think of doing it that way - I'll plan that for next weekend as I did a WD40 soak and White Lightning post sitting for a few hours today. Definitely getting responsive shifting much better than before. I"ll also do the wire cleaning when it's pulled. It's looking better and better that I can salvage them and not drop big money into it. Not gonna lie it needs some work like the chain ring (two broken teeth), so I'd rather put my money there if i have to but so far it isn't noticeable


Appreciate everyone's assistance, definitely helpful and good to know I have resources here
Don't clean the cables or the outer casing, rather replace all of them. You will need to buy replacement cable kits, one for brakes, the other for shifters. At the very minimum replace the shifter cables. You will also need some way to cut the cable outer case to size without crushing the casing. Most of us here special cable cutters, normal cutters will not work. If you have a dremel tool you can use that using the saw bit. An awl or nail to open up the end that you cut also. Use the old cable casing to cut the new to size.
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Old 08-02-20, 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by andrewclaus View Post
I just worked on some of those shifters today and yes, the key is removing the cable and barrel adjuster, if so equipped. Use a dental pick to get the pawls moving. A drop of penetrating oil sometimes works better than WD.

By the way, it looks like the front canti yoke may be too high for good braking. If the front brake is weak, lower the yoke (let cable out) and extend the shoes in. See Sheldon Brown's article on cantis for clarification.

Are you sure the missing chain ring teeth aren't shifting aids? Those often look like unusual wear.

I'll post up a pick tomorrow - but it looks like they are broken. The brakes do need to come in a bit - i'll adjust them to hold me over.

The semi good news is I took my son on a 5ish mile ride and the shifting is like 90% there, some gear noise i need to tweak with the barrel adjuster. You don't appreciate (maybe you do) newer bikes until you ride an older one - my 7.4 FX was like a Rolls Royce compared to this
one and the 7.4 wasn't anything high-end
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Old 08-02-20, 07:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Thomas15 View Post
Don't clean the cables or the outer casing, rather replace all of them. You will need to buy replacement cable kits, one for brakes, the other for shifters. At the very minimum replace the shifter cables. You will also need some way to cut the cable outer case to size without crushing the casing. Most of us here special cable cutters, normal cutters will not work. If you have a dremel tool you can use that using the saw bit. An awl or nail to open up the end that you cut also. Use the old cable casing to cut the new to size.
This was going to be done when I eventually replace the shifter and brake assembly, I want it to be all new - but biding my time so I don't start dumping a lot of money into it off the bat. Problem is I can't find anything in stock - was going to grab the Tourney stuff from the LBS whose website said they had it, but they are weeks behind on stock. Amazon has them but won't get them till Sept/October - so just biding my time and keepign some cash in my wallet for now
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Old 08-02-20, 08:28 PM
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Check derailleur hanger alignment
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Old 08-03-20, 07:45 AM
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andrewclaus

Chainring photos below - don't mind the dirty chain, I went for a ride and need to clean it.


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Old 08-03-20, 08:02 AM
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Here's an article on it: https://cannondale.zendesk.com/hc/en...erent-lengths-
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Old 08-03-20, 08:04 AM
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Originally Posted by dedhed View Post
Check derailleur hanger alignment

​​​​​​I screwed the B Screw in and it's literally all the way in and it moved it ever so slightly. I did this as it was riding the chain on the largest gear on the rear cassette. It's a direct on frame derailleur. Is there anything I can do to adjust it further?

Already indexed and tweaked alignment on the derailleur and heard with the H/L limit screws. Front derailleur is stubborn, I got it perfect on the small chainring and large one, middle is rubbing slightly
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Old 08-03-20, 08:06 AM
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Originally Posted by andrewclaus View Post

Hmm ok, learning more and more, appreciate the share!
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Old 08-03-20, 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by knightblaze View Post
​​​​​​I screwed the B Screw in and it's literally all the way in and it moved it ever so slightly. I did this as it was riding the chain on the largest gear on the rear cassette. It's a direct on frame derailleur. Is there anything I can do to adjust it further?
Longer screw from a good hardware store. Take your old one in and match threads, likely M4 X .7, then buy a bit longer one. I recommend stainless allan head.
Or cheaper but a pain is thread the screw in from the backside, but that only gets you a little extra.
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Old 08-03-20, 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by dedhed View Post
Longer screw from a good hardware store. Take your old one in and match threads, likely M4 X .7, then buy a bit longer one. I recommend stainless allan head.
Or cheaper but a pain is thread the screw in from the backside, but that only gets you a little extra.

This is good to know, Ill give it a shot as well

Much appreciated!
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