Convert to Hydraulic Brakes?
08-06-20, 07:17 PM
#1
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 49
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 29 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 8 Times
in
6 Posts
Convert to Hydraulic Brakes?
Can someone provide details on the conversion from normal disk brakes to hydraulic? Was it worth it?
I have a Marin Four Corners bike with Sora brakes, but the TRP/SPYRE-C brakes are weak at best. Thinking I could do better with hydraulics.
Does this kind of setup even allow for the use of hydraulics?
I have a Marin Four Corners bike with Sora brakes, but the TRP/SPYRE-C brakes are weak at best. Thinking I could do better with hydraulics.
Does this kind of setup even allow for the use of hydraulics?
08-06-20, 07:31 PM
#2
Non omnino gravis
As it's a drop-bar bike, you'd have to change... most everything. I don't think there's a set of 3x9 STis for hydraulic, so to go full hydraulic, you'd have to replace not just the levers and brakes, but the derailleurs, cassette, and chain as well.
I don't think it's really cost effective. If it was a flatbar bike, no problem. Pretty cheap. For your Marin, you could try a hybrid caliper, like the TRP Hy/Rd or the JuinTech R1.
I don't think it's really cost effective. If it was a flatbar bike, no problem. Pretty cheap. For your Marin, you could try a hybrid caliper, like the TRP Hy/Rd or the JuinTech R1.
__________________
Likes For Canker:
08-07-20, 07:05 AM
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 7,364
Mentioned: 36 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6566 Post(s)
Liked 10,274 Times
in
4,407 Posts
If your brakes have resin pads, you might want to try metallic or semi-metallic brake pads for more power.
As others have posted, swapping from mechanical to hydro brakes will be complicated and expensive.
As others have posted, swapping from mechanical to hydro brakes will be complicated and expensive.
08-07-20, 07:09 AM
#5
Senior Member
I wouldn't switch as what DrIsotope says it's true. You'll have to replace almost everything and it's going to be really expensive.
I don't have experience with Spyres, but Avid BB7's brake more than enough. Anyway I prefer hydraulics (or, on a road bike at least, rim brakes) because, unlike mechanical discs, they don't require constant adjustment and tweaking.
In your case I'd try hybrid calipers like DrIsotope says. JuinTech R1 and TRP Hy/Rd are really expensive though... I'd maybe give a try to Zoom's Xtech HB100. A pair of calipers can be had for around 35€ in ebay. I've read of some people that have upgraded spyres with these and they seem happy.
I don't have experience with Spyres, but Avid BB7's brake more than enough. Anyway I prefer hydraulics (or, on a road bike at least, rim brakes) because, unlike mechanical discs, they don't require constant adjustment and tweaking.
In your case I'd try hybrid calipers like DrIsotope says. JuinTech R1 and TRP Hy/Rd are really expensive though... I'd maybe give a try to Zoom's Xtech HB100. A pair of calipers can be had for around 35€ in ebay. I've read of some people that have upgraded spyres with these and they seem happy.
08-07-20, 09:04 AM
#6
Banned
Advantage to the Hy Rd Is It's self pad wear compensation.. Juin Tec (Yokozuna branded in US market) is still a manual pad wear adjustment..
...
08-07-20, 01:31 PM
#7
mosquito rancher
I agree with the advice to replace/adjust pads first, try hybrid calipers second.
About ten years ago, there were a few different cable-to-hydro converters, which mounted below your stem, so you could use your cable levers with hydraulic brakes. TRP had one called Parabox. These all seem to be consigned to the dustbin of history, but you might have some luck trawling ebay.
About ten years ago, there were a few different cable-to-hydro converters, which mounted below your stem, so you could use your cable levers with hydraulic brakes. TRP had one called Parabox. These all seem to be consigned to the dustbin of history, but you might have some luck trawling ebay.
__________________
Adam Rice
Adam Rice
08-08-20, 12:06 PM
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Maryland
Posts: 1,367
Bikes: 1982 Bianchi Sport SX, Rayleigh Tamland 1, Rans V-Rex recumbent, Fuji MTB, 80's Cannondale MTB with BBSHD ebike motor
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 656 Post(s)
Liked 523 Times
in
349 Posts
I have bikes with both spyre and bb7 mechanicals. I've owned bikes with slx hydros. Your spyres should be more than up to the task. Try new pads and take a sander to the rotors. Spyres should
not be weak
not be weak
08-08-20, 06:59 PM
#9
Full Member
In the past year, I have had Spyre, HY/RD, and now fully hydraulic brakes on my gravel bike.
Spyre - Perfectly serviceable in my opinion. Feel and outright power were lacking, but they were still much more predictable and better than the canti brakes I had used on previous bikes.
HY/RD - Pretty big upgrade up from the Spyre, and very easy to setup with caliper only replacement. Very good power with a good squeeze, and decent brake modulation. Best used with compressionless housing (e.g. Jagwire KEB-SL).
Ultegra hydraulic (previous generation) - You can find these on eBay right now as a set with both shifters, calipers, hoses, and other misc parts for $290. Really good deal. The brake feel and modulation is much better than the HY/RD. Setup is more involved than cable brakes, but maintenance should be less, and cable / housing wear will not affect feel, or performance.
Spyre - Perfectly serviceable in my opinion. Feel and outright power were lacking, but they were still much more predictable and better than the canti brakes I had used on previous bikes.
HY/RD - Pretty big upgrade up from the Spyre, and very easy to setup with caliper only replacement. Very good power with a good squeeze, and decent brake modulation. Best used with compressionless housing (e.g. Jagwire KEB-SL).
Ultegra hydraulic (previous generation) - You can find these on eBay right now as a set with both shifters, calipers, hoses, and other misc parts for $290. Really good deal. The brake feel and modulation is much better than the HY/RD. Setup is more involved than cable brakes, but maintenance should be less, and cable / housing wear will not affect feel, or performance.
08-08-20, 07:13 PM
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Down Under
Posts: 1,936
Bikes: A steel framed 26" off road tourer from a manufacturer who thinks they are cool. Giant Anthem. Trek 720 Multiroad pub bike. 10 kids bikes all under 20". Assorted waifs and unfinished projects.
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1188 Post(s)
Liked 1,154 Times
in
640 Posts
Sigh: OK, another cable brake thread.
New better pads first. Koolstop, Swiss Stop, resin or semi-metallic if your discs will cope.
Next: Compressionless housing and mandrel drawn inners with decent ferrules. My recommendation is Jagwire Pro cables. Comes in a packet with everything you need to optimise your cable system. Don't be tempted by the cheap kits on Ebay, they are better than generic, but no where near as good as genuine.
Need more?
Next: Biggest decent discs you can fit within the specs of your bike. Bigger the disc the less brake force needed
Still not right?
Next: HY/RD Good thing is all of the previous steps are compatible with this option so you haven't wasted any money.
New better pads first. Koolstop, Swiss Stop, resin or semi-metallic if your discs will cope.
Next: Compressionless housing and mandrel drawn inners with decent ferrules. My recommendation is Jagwire Pro cables. Comes in a packet with everything you need to optimise your cable system. Don't be tempted by the cheap kits on Ebay, they are better than generic, but no where near as good as genuine.
Need more?
Next: Biggest decent discs you can fit within the specs of your bike. Bigger the disc the less brake force needed
Still not right?
Next: HY/RD Good thing is all of the previous steps are compatible with this option so you haven't wasted any money.
08-08-20, 07:16 PM
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Montreal, Quebec
Posts: 5,792
Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1747 Post(s)
Liked 1,609 Times
in
921 Posts
Ultegra hydraulic (previous generation) - You can find these on eBay right now as a set with both shifters, calipers, hoses, and other misc parts for $290. Really good deal. The brake feel and modulation is much better than the HY/RD. Setup is more involved than cable brakes, but maintenance should be less, and cable / housing wear will not affect feel, or performance.
08-08-20, 07:28 PM
#12
Full Member
I would first take a look at the brake housing, and if it's lower end housing, upgrade that to compressionless if sticking with cable brakes. If you're still not happy with the Spyre after that, the HY/RD calipers are still available for around $140 grey market. I was perfectly happy with the performance of HY/RD setup with 105 levers, but the maintenance long term for a large volume of riding in bad conditions caused me to look into the full hydraulic setup.
