Plugging rivet holes in a head tube
08-31-20, 07:58 AM
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Plugging rivet holes in a head tube
Hi there. I hope this is the right sub forum. I'm working on a Raleigh 20. I'm going to sandblast and paint the frame, so I had to remove the Raleigh badge on the head tube, that seemed to be riveted. Now I have a few little holes in (actualy more than I expected. There are 5 holes, I expected 3. Seems like the shield has already been replaced?).
My question is: Is there a method to plug these holes that would survive the sand blasting? Or should I sand blast it, then plug the holes, then paint? I do have a nice soldering iron here, but I'm not sure if the connection would be strong enough to hold.
The holes are approx. 1mm diameter.
Cheers,
Phil
My question is: Is there a method to plug these holes that would survive the sand blasting? Or should I sand blast it, then plug the holes, then paint? I do have a nice soldering iron here, but I'm not sure if the connection would be strong enough to hold.
The holes are approx. 1mm diameter.
Cheers,
Phil
08-31-20, 08:13 AM
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I don't have the answer, but you might want to cross-post in the Framebuilders forum-seems like someone there would have a good solution. If you do, might mention it's a cross post.
08-31-20, 08:13 AM
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Let's assume the head badge covers the holes, and it will be reinstalled
after the paint job. Then there is no necessity to fill in the holes. For the
paint job you could use toothpicks for temporary coverage, and remove them
after the paint dries.
after the paint job. Then there is no necessity to fill in the holes. For the
paint job you could use toothpicks for temporary coverage, and remove them
after the paint dries.
08-31-20, 08:19 AM
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Unfortunately not. It doesn't fit the clean look I'm aiming for.
08-31-20, 08:20 AM
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Sand blast the frame, then fill the holes with epoxy with a filler. Sand the epoxy to form a smooth paintable surface.
08-31-20, 08:23 AM
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Take it apart, pull the fork.. have the holes brazed over to fill them, file it smooth, then turn it over to the powder coater..
An untouched bare surface is required for a smooth powder glazing, so why pay for blasting it twice (?)
epoxy may be blown away by the final blasting for powder adhesion, but OK if spraying liquid finishes..
Like Imron or other paints.
...
An untouched bare surface is required for a smooth powder glazing, so why pay for blasting it twice (?)
epoxy may be blown away by the final blasting for powder adhesion, but OK if spraying liquid finishes..
Like Imron or other paints.
...
Last edited by fietsbob; 08-31-20 at 08:30 AM.
08-31-20, 09:42 AM
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Thanks, I had to wait to reply because I can't post more than 5 posts in 24 hours. I think to have the holes brazed over is the most longlasting solution, so I'll try that. Shouldn't cost much, the holes are tiny.
Cheers!
Cheers!
08-31-20, 09:43 AM
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blast it and fill with JB weld after, sand smooth, paint.
08-31-20, 10:02 AM
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They probably are what's called drive screws. They just get hammered, preferably with one blow into the correct sized hole and need no bucking bar as rivets do. However if they are soft and you can easily cut or deform them, then I'm wrong and they are rivets.
You can just plug up the holes with bondo, jb weld or most anything you can paint over. I'd probably do it after sand blasting. But then if I had access to the blaster, hit it lightly around the holes if the filler smears on the metal and doesn't come off easily leaving the same surface texture.
Not putting the head badge back on would be as bad as re-naming a sail boat. You'll have to do some really funky mojo stuff to rid the bike of the curse it will have on it.
I would drill new holes if you do put the badge back on with new drive screws. Or... just epoxy it on.
You can just plug up the holes with bondo, jb weld or most anything you can paint over. I'd probably do it after sand blasting. But then if I had access to the blaster, hit it lightly around the holes if the filler smears on the metal and doesn't come off easily leaving the same surface texture.
Not putting the head badge back on would be as bad as re-naming a sail boat. You'll have to do some really funky mojo stuff to rid the bike of the curse it will have on it.
I would drill new holes if you do put the badge back on with new drive screws. Or... just epoxy it on.
08-31-20, 10:16 AM
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08-31-20, 10:46 AM
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Sandblasting will erode the filler (lead solder, epoxy, whatever) fairly quickly, so blast first, then fill the holes.
08-31-20, 10:47 AM
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your bike, your choice, but the Raleigh head badge is pretty classic looking, and a raleigh 20 is pretty funky anyway so I am not so sure about clean look vs having the good looking raleigh head badge
options listed would work, would not go solder and iron......if you had a propane torch, flux and proper brazing rod you could braze, then sand In any event do this after all paint removed
what is your painting plan? auto paint or rattle can? in may cases it is a ton better to powder coat
options listed would work, would not go solder and iron......if you had a propane torch, flux and proper brazing rod you could braze, then sand In any event do this after all paint removed
what is your painting plan? auto paint or rattle can? in may cases it is a ton better to powder coat
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Life is too short not to ride the best bike you have, as much as you can
(looking for Torpado Super light frame/fork or for Raleigh International frame fork 58cm)
Life is too short not to ride the best bike you have, as much as you can
(looking for Torpado Super light frame/fork or for Raleigh International frame fork 58cm)
08-31-20, 11:27 AM
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I've almost decided to keep the badge. Would make things way easier. 
It's going to be powder coated, that frame is way too sexy for a rattle can.
It's going to be powder coated, that frame is way too sexy for a rattle can.
