Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

Internal cabling on new carbon frame

Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

Internal cabling on new carbon frame

Old 09-17-20, 01:13 PM
  #1  
dougdunn
Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: VA suburbs of DC
Posts: 39

Bikes: '76 Centurion Pro Tour, '78 Centurion Super LeMans custom, '10 Scott CR1 Comp/Pro, '11 KHS Tandemania Cross, '96 Kestrel 200 SCi, German Centurion Al Road Bike, Cannondale 500 (M&W), Museeuw/ZRace project

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 11 Post(s)
Liked 8 Times in 7 Posts
Internal cabling on new carbon frame

Sorry for starting a new thread, but too many results for "Internal cabling". Just got my new carbon frame delivered by Fed Ex. It has internal cabling with stops with the holes not big enough to send the cable sheath through the frame. OK. It has little clear tubing inside the frame from hole to hole so you can route the cable. Here's the question - Do you remove the tube after you have the cable run, or trim it off and leave it in place? Thanks. Doug
dougdunn is offline  
Old 09-17-20, 01:28 PM
  #2  
cxwrench
Senior Member
 
cxwrench's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Nor-Cal
Posts: 2,335

Bikes: lots

Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1091 Post(s)
Liked 1,403 Times in 783 Posts
I would say on 99% of the frames you'd removed. If it were meant to be left in the frame it would be permanently attached at easy end. If it's sticking out of the frame, remove it when done.
cxwrench is offline  
Old 09-17-20, 02:05 PM
  #3  
AndrewJB
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Marietta, GA
Posts: 79

Bikes: FUJI Transonic 2.3; Motobecane LeChampion TI SL; Trek 2.3

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 34 Post(s)
Liked 33 Times in 17 Posts
Remove it, but keep it.
If you ever need to replace the cable you feed it through on the old cable, pull the old cable out, then feed the new cable thru in the tube.
Remove, and repeat...
AndrewJB is offline  
Likes For AndrewJB:
Old 09-17-20, 02:17 PM
  #4  
deacon mark
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,824

Bikes: Habanero Titanium Team Nuevo

Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 330 Post(s)
Liked 120 Times in 87 Posts
I think I would careful before I pulled it out. The reason is that it is there to facilitate changing the cables and possible making the cables easier to glide. I would ask the frame manufacture to see. I do remove mine from my Wilier after I have the cables installed but I have also seen some that are left in place. In my circumstance I have dedicated set of tubes I keep in my toolbox to change the cables and housing. Believe me I once got it messed up and spend 2 hours feeding the cable through the frame to get it changed. So once I did that I made sure I had a system down next time. I might add the personally I still prefer the regular outside cables and stops. Works fine and looks fine to me easy to change and I want perfect shifting above all the rest. I have Shimano 6800 on my Habby and it shifts perfect never a miss. Once the cables starts to go usually the rear I put new cable and only really need a new rear loop housing. In a matter of 10 minutes I have perfect shifting again with new cable and housing. I find the housing under the handlebar tape last for a long time.....maybe years.
deacon mark is online now  
Old 09-17-20, 08:51 PM
  #5  
Andrew R Stewart 
Senior Member
 
Andrew R Stewart's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 15,404

Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Raleigh Pro, Trek Cycle Cross, Mongoose tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3080 Post(s)
Liked 1,503 Times in 1,024 Posts
I will add a small detail that can be very frustrating when replacing internal shifting cables. take acre to not intertwine them, if so when you shift one der the other will pull a bit as the first's cable tension increase will be shared by the other.

So keeping the cables free of each other is important. If the factory placed internal tunnel tubes I strongly suggest saving them. They can be replaced with common casing liner, we use that often (just did a Giant carbon frame cable replacement with generic liners as an aid today). But sone factory liners are also to reduce friction and if then sticking out of ports likely will want to be retained and cut down. What any one specific brand and model uses is not well published. Andy
__________________
AndrewRStewart
Andrew R Stewart is offline  

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information -

Copyright 2021 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.