Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

Disc brake pads not "returning"??

Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

Disc brake pads not "returning"??

Old 11-15-20, 10:30 AM
  #1  
rbrides
Curmudgeon
Thread Starter
 
rbrides's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Triangle NC
Posts: 134

Bikes: Specialized Diverge Comp

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 44 Post(s)
Liked 6 Times in 6 Posts
Disc brake pads not "returning"??

I've had an intermittent issue with my Shimano hydraulic front disc brakes all year. Very often, when I release the brake level, I hear a "tinging" sound, as if one or both of the pads have not retracted fully into the caliper. It is very annoying. Many, many times I have put the bike on the repair stand and adjusted the caliper by loosening the bolts, squeezing the lever, tightening the bolts back while holding the lever, all to center the caliper to the disc. It usually spins on the stand without issue. but it often returns again on rides.


I have done all sorts of things the resolve this. Replaced the discs, replace pads, cleaned the caliper pistons (at least the small portion that protrudes from the caliper, a method described by Park Tools), adjusted and readjusted the caliper again and again it but always just comes back. When fell rides ask "whats that noise" it is annoying. Sometimes it I can ride for days without it occurring, but it eventually comes back. Aggravating. I feel the only solution left is to replace the whole caliper but that just seems expensive. The bike is less than a year old. When I have taken it to the bike shop they get the same result on the repair stand I described above and say its fixed. I need a true, permanent resolution.
rbrides is offline  
Old 11-15-20, 10:34 AM
  #2  
CargoDane
Not a newbie to cycling
 
Join Date: Oct 2020
Posts: 911

Bikes: Omnium Cargo Ti with Rohloff, Bullitt Milk Plus, Dahon Smooth Hound

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 356 Post(s)
Liked 319 Times in 197 Posts
Could it be the piston at the lever somehow?
CargoDane is offline  
Likes For CargoDane:
Old 11-15-20, 10:35 AM
  #3  
ridelikeaturtle
Senior Member
 
ridelikeaturtle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Dublin, Ireland
Posts: 1,045

Bikes: Bianchi Ti Megatube; Colnago Competition; Planet-X EC-130E; Klein Pulse; Amp Research B4; Litespeed Catalyst; Fondriest Squadra Corse; Trek Y11

Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 482 Post(s)
Liked 282 Times in 165 Posts
Are there little pins on which the pads slide? Copper anti-seize compound, or some form of wheel bearing grease. Regardless, the caliper will need regular cleaning and maintenance, that's the true "permanent" solution.
ridelikeaturtle is offline  
Likes For ridelikeaturtle:
Old 11-15-20, 12:58 PM
  #4  
GamblerGORD53
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Elevation 666m Edmonton Canada
Posts: 1,644

Bikes: 2013 Custom SA5w / Rohloff Tourster

Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 779 Post(s)
Liked 72 Times in 65 Posts
I would throw those crazy gimmicks in the garbage. Is this a mudder bike? What the hell is the point of hydraulic?
My TRP cable Spyres work 100% every time on my Rohloff 203 disc, stops instantly any time I want with not much effort. The rear line is very long too. Adjustment is seldom and very unfinicky.
I have SA long pull levers and resin pads. Over 4,000 miles. I haven't broken a cable in 40 years. Lots of times I cut an old rear cable down to use on the front.

Last edited by GamblerGORD53; 11-15-20 at 01:07 PM.
GamblerGORD53 is offline  
Likes For GamblerGORD53:
Old 11-15-20, 01:12 PM
  #5  
CargoDane
Not a newbie to cycling
 
Join Date: Oct 2020
Posts: 911

Bikes: Omnium Cargo Ti with Rohloff, Bullitt Milk Plus, Dahon Smooth Hound

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 356 Post(s)
Liked 319 Times in 197 Posts
Originally Posted by GamblerGORD53 View Post
I would throw those crazy gimmicks in the garbage. Is this a mudder bike? What the hell is the point of hydraulic?
My TRP cable Spyres work 100% every time on my Rohloff 203 disc, stops instantly any time I want with not much effort. The rear line is very long too. Adjustment is seldom and very unfinicky.
I have SA long pull levers and resin pads. Over 4,000 miles. I haven't broken a cable in 40 years. Lots of times I cut an old rear cable down to use on the front.
Erm, in mud and snow, hydraulics shine over wired "things" needing to slide inside hoses (be it gears or brakes). And discs shine even more over rim brakes - especially in mud.
Even "mud bikes" are usually used on asphalt too. Hell, I use Saints DH brakes on my bike. You can never have too much stopping power.
CargoDane is offline  
Likes For CargoDane:
Old 11-15-20, 04:04 PM
  #6  
TiHabanero
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 3,319
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1172 Post(s)
Liked 475 Times in 254 Posts
Rotor warp from heat. Sometimes it can be trued out, other times not and you just deal with it or replace it.
TiHabanero is offline  
Likes For TiHabanero:
Old 11-16-20, 09:16 AM
  #7  
BenBoozer
Member
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Richmond, Va.
Posts: 40

Bikes: 2020 Domane SL 5, 2016 Crossrip Comp

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20 Post(s)
Liked 48 Times in 15 Posts
I have a very similar issue with the front brake on my 3 month old Domane SL5 with 105 components. When releasing the front lever, neither it or the pads retracted correctly. I could push the lever with my finger back to the starting position which also moved the pads off the rotor. Shimano said it was an issue with the master cylinder and is sending out a new brake lever for the LBS to replace under warranty. I suggest you have your shop do some more digging before your warranty expires.
BenBoozer is offline  
Likes For BenBoozer:
Old 11-16-20, 05:31 PM
  #8  
rbrides
Curmudgeon
Thread Starter
 
rbrides's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Triangle NC
Posts: 134

Bikes: Specialized Diverge Comp

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 44 Post(s)
Liked 6 Times in 6 Posts
I suppose it could. I don't know.
rbrides is offline  
Old 11-16-20, 05:34 PM
  #9  
rbrides
Curmudgeon
Thread Starter
 
rbrides's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Triangle NC
Posts: 134

Bikes: Specialized Diverge Comp

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 44 Post(s)
Liked 6 Times in 6 Posts
Originally Posted by ridelikeaturtle View Post
Are there little pins on which the pads slide? Copper anti-seize compound, or some form of wheel bearing grease. Regardless, the caliper will need regular cleaning and maintenance, that's the true "permanent" solution.
I would not feel comfortable putting grease that near the pads and disc. The potential for it to get on the brakes is risky, in my opinion.
rbrides is offline  
Old 11-16-20, 05:34 PM
  #10  
CargoDane
Not a newbie to cycling
 
Join Date: Oct 2020
Posts: 911

Bikes: Omnium Cargo Ti with Rohloff, Bullitt Milk Plus, Dahon Smooth Hound

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 356 Post(s)
Liked 319 Times in 197 Posts
Can you swap the hoses (only at the levers) so the left one activates the rear and vice versa and then bleed them? If it's now the other wheel doing it, you have your answer.
CargoDane is offline  
Likes For CargoDane:
Old 11-16-20, 05:36 PM
  #11  
rbrides
Curmudgeon
Thread Starter
 
rbrides's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Triangle NC
Posts: 134

Bikes: Specialized Diverge Comp

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 44 Post(s)
Liked 6 Times in 6 Posts
The rotors are slightly out-of-true and I've trued them with the Park Tool. maybe just not enough.
rbrides is offline  
Old 11-17-20, 01:16 AM
  #12  
ridelikeaturtle
Senior Member
 
ridelikeaturtle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Dublin, Ireland
Posts: 1,045

Bikes: Bianchi Ti Megatube; Colnago Competition; Planet-X EC-130E; Klein Pulse; Amp Research B4; Litespeed Catalyst; Fondriest Squadra Corse; Trek Y11

Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 482 Post(s)
Liked 282 Times in 165 Posts
Originally Posted by rbrides View Post
I would not feel comfortable putting grease that near the pads and disc. The potential for it to get on the brakes is risky, in my opinion.
We're talking about applying a thin layer with your finger, not lobbing it on from across the room.

You can also smear copper anti-seize onto the back of the pads, to help stop them from squealing. Again, a thin layer.
ridelikeaturtle is offline  
Old 11-17-20, 04:46 AM
  #13  
rbrides
Curmudgeon
Thread Starter
 
rbrides's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Triangle NC
Posts: 134

Bikes: Specialized Diverge Comp

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 44 Post(s)
Liked 6 Times in 6 Posts
Originally Posted by ridelikeaturtle View Post
We're talking about applying a thin layer with your finger, not lobbing it on from across the room.

You can also smear copper anti-seize onto the back of the pads, to help stop them from squealing. Again, a thin layer.
Thanks for clarifying.
rbrides is offline  

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information -

Copyright 2021 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.