robo

OK.. i guess the problem was that i didn't know the colored stuff was threadlock.. i thought it might just be some paint for easy identification of the different bolts, since there were different colors on the different types bolts (blue on the rotor mount bolts, white on the caliper mount bolts). I also thought that it was standard practice to grease any bolts, especially steel going into aluminum.

Anyway, i guess i'll take the bolts out and clean them, and put either loctite or beeswax on them, depending if i get around to getting some loctite.

rmfnla

Meanwhile, you've got me curious about beeswax. I want to try it; is it available at hardware stores?

sydney

Well maybe,but it doesn't cover the whole thread. Maybe that's why ya hear about so many stuck ones. English thread doesn't need loctite anyway and neither does Italian if properly tightened. Guess that means Ole sydney just ends up with greasy loctite in BB shell.

Brian

Let's not confuse the white lithium grease with the white threadlock found on brake hardware. They taste completely different.

FlatTop

"Meanwhile, you've got me curious about beeswax. I want to try it; is it available at hardware stores?"

I'm not sure if it is available as a block of beeswax, but I think the wax sealing rings used under commodes are beeswax.
I've not heard of using beeswax as a threadlocker, but it might be of some help in lubricating fasteners during installation, and maybe to assist setting them at the correct torque?

alanbikehouston

I got mine in a small paper cup from Rivendell.com. It is as hard as a bar of ivory soap, then you roll a grape-sized ball of it between your fingers until it becomes mushy. It works well on the sorts of bolts that tend to vibrate loose.

For example, the chain guard on one of my beach cruisers has a tiny bolt that comes loose. Put some beeswax on its threads. It goes into place very easily. The wax hardens, and the bolt is "locked tight". But, it I want to remove the chain guard, the bolt will turn easily, and come out clean and corrosion free.

I had a reflector that clipped onto a pedal. It had two plastic posts that are supposed to compress into slots in the pedal, than expand and lock into place. One post no longer compressed or expanded, so half the reflector panel would move back away from the pedal. Put some beeswax into the slot in the pedal. Let it harden. Then inserted the reflector panel. The beeswax formed a "clamp" around the defective mounting prong, and holds the reflector firmly in place. Yet, with a firm pull, I can remove the reflector panel if I wanted to.

I also sees bolts on a bike that tend to corrode. One of my bikes has four bolts attaching the bars to the stem that began to corrode inside the recessed heads. Eventually, the corrosion could make it difficult to fully seat a tool to remove the bolts. Pack some beeswax inside the heads of the bolts. The wax hardens, and seals out water and dirt, and keeps the bolt heads clean. When it is time to remove the bolts, a thin screwdriver will "pop out" the wad of wax, and the bolt will still look like new.

rmfnla

OK, let me get this straight; you want me to lube my bike with something that normally goes under a toilet? Suddenly LocTite is looking better than ever!

FlatTop

Point taken. BUT, if there is one fixture in your household that you fervently hope will never loosen up or spring a leak, perhaps that would be your humble toilet. Trusty beeswax keeps you from being the Johnny-on-the-spot, as it were.

Alanbikehouston, thanks for the beeswax info.

now I shall mind my own.

Grand Bois

Woodworkers use beeswax on drawer slides and window sash, among other things. It's also used to make woodscrews penetrate easier (don't ever use soap, it makes screws rust). Look for beeswax wherever woodworking supplies are sold.

robo

I bought a block of beeswax from a street fair. They were actually selling beeswax candles, but i asked if i could just buy a block of wax, and they produced a bar about the size/shape of a Mars bar, which i bought for a few dollars.

You could also just buy a beeswax candle from a craft shop, or... here's an evil one:
I noticed that Greek Orthodox churches use beeswax tapers for something or other (i was at a greek wedding recently).. They have tons of them right by the entrance, maybe for members to take as they go in. Just find a church, nonchalantly walk in, grab a taper or two, and run!

Raiyn

Much better than copy / pasting and clearly labeled to boot

robo

I thought about it some more, and decided i'd better get some Loctite for the brakes. Since disc brake rotors get hot, i imagine it could make beeswax on the rotor bolt threads liquefy, which would render it useless as a thread locking compound..

Anyway, i went to a local auto parts store, and found a little bottle of Permatex brand blue threadlocker for $3.49, a lot cheaper than the Loctite brand.

One thing about it though.. it goes hard, and then when you move the bolt again, it gets 'broken'. Which means, you can't go about re-torquing the threadlocked bolts, right? I mean, if you turn the bolt, you pretty much need to take it out completely and re-apply fresh threadlocking compound, right?

Also picked up a 32oz bottle of Simple Green automotive degreaser for $2.99.. a lot cheaper than the bike store.

cascade168

A good place to find it would be at a farm supply, farmer's coop, or your local apiary(duh). Beeswax is very interesting stuff, when you start looking at how many different ways you can use it on a bike. Besides using it as a thread locker and sealer, it's perfect for sealing up the gas venting holes on frames, making cable ends (yup), and if you put it on a cable before you cut it the cable won't fray. A pretty good sized block cost me $3 at a farmer's coop and I seriously doubt I'll ever use it all. Also perfect for lubricating wood screws. Those bees are on to something

sch

Turning the screw/bolt/nut after set up of the loctite or equivalent does reduce the strength of the bond significantly but there is still considerably more friction in there than with metal to metal threads. For best results determine your endpoint, clean the threads and apply loctite and torque it to the endpoint.

FWIW sealing up the gas vent holes in welded frames can result in water accumulation inside the frame. The holes also serve as drainage holes. Different frames vary in their susceptibility to this (as do wheel rims). Most are tight enough that very little water gets in. Those riders in So Cal probably don't know what this is all about.
Steve

late

https://www.rivbike.com/webalog/miscellaneous/31002.html

rmfnla

I don't think I have any wood screws on my bike...

Retrogroucho

I remember about 30 years ago when I only had a few years experience I used to grease everything, all threads. It took a while to learn that a few areas do better without grease.
I also like beeswax (also great for zippers on outdoor gear)
I can usually find small "pucks" of it at hardware stores,& 1 lb blocks at farmers markets & organic food stores. It's great stuff with many uses. If you add other oils (like coconut oil) & heat it up you can make a softer paste out of it. I also use it to groom my facial hair & sideburns. Treat leather,wax canvas & makes a good light-strength thread lock.
& by the way...to the first guy
If you ask "what is the blue stuff on the ends of my bolts" of course everyone is going to think that you are a noob...offended much? A little over sensitive? Maybe you should try to absorb some of the knowledge offered to you.
& about plugging the vent holes...
I'm a SoCal rider & think that the best thing to do with your vent holes (on your steel bikes---yes, we still ride steel) is to get some waxy oil into them, like Boshield, or JP wiegle framesaver, or something similar turn the frame every different direction several times (after also putting a generous amount into your top tube, down tube, & seat tube) to really spread it around & then leave the vent holes open. REALLY important on frames & forks that have been chromed. Old acid residue from plating process can cause lots of internal rusting...I've seen like 1/4 inch of powdered rust inside of beautiful, expensive, classic frames.

AnkleWork

That's an enormous amount of (on topic) content to come up with in only twelve years. Maybe you should check a calendar.

Retrogroucho

Huh?

Retrogroucho

Oh... I see.
Yes, I admit that I did not realize that this question was posted in 2005.
Still felt compelled to add my on topic observations,& statements.
I've been a "bike guy" for almost 50 years. In that time I have seen & learned a few things.
But am still not a technoweenie,
Just a retrogrouch that has been hands on for a long time

J.Higgins 

I like to use the purple (low strength) Loctite on disc brake bolts, even if they come with a threadlocker on them. I do this because the bolts are typically hardened steel and to avoid any water intrusion and dissimilar metals corrosion, I'm sure to coat the bolt threads completely. I use a cheap model paint brush to evenly distribute the threadlocker in the bolt threads. No reason to rush - the purple stuff has a 72 hour cure. Its a little anal - I know - but I've never had a problem.

Retrogroucho

I'm still not really into gluing them in place. A couple months ago I twisted off the head of a rotor bolt while removing a rotor. It could have made for a big problem that might have taken a lot of extra time & labor but I was lucky enough to remove the rest of the broken bolt quickly. If you are being paid to wrench on bikes---time is money
I live & work in a beach community & see a LOT of galvanic corrosion & rust because of the salt air, probably one of the biggest problems on bikes that are not stored in the house. Usually takes less than a year for corroded spoke nipples & rusty fasteners & rotors & crusty exposed cables. A lot of people seem to neglect their bicycles to death

WizardOfBoz

Wow. Completely disagree. Fasteners in highly stressed joints, even when properly prestressed, can and do loosen. When this happens, the clamping force reduces and any standard nut can vibrate off. This is why race car mechanics use loctite and why racecar mechs and airplane A&PP men use drilled bolts and castellated nuts with safety wire (and loctite). Carroll Smith was an engineer and race car mechanic/Crew Chief. He wrote several books about race cars with titles like "Prepare to Win", "Design to Win" and "Build to Win". The he realized the practical aspects of threaded fasteners had not been covered, so he wrote a book to do so. He wanted to call it "Screw to Win", but it ended up as "Carroll Smith's Nuts, Bolts, Fasteners and Plumbing Handbook". Written about 30 years ago: still useful to read.

Completely agree. Except for Belleville washers there isn't enough extra axial force provided by normal split-ring or star lockwashers to reduce the "shake loose" effect above. Which is why we use loctite.

My Shimano dura-ace derailler wheel bolts are both fastened to the cage using blue loctite.

And I agree with the other posters: remove all traces of oil and grease (IPA works ok, min spirits better, and brake cleaner REALLY well, but mind your paint and any CF or plastic parts with the latter) and use Loctite 243 (Blue, medium strength) or Permatex Blue Threadlocker. Either is about 6 bucks for a small tube. The nice thing is that the stuff doesn't go bad very easily, so it will last.

1Coopgt

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0043EK14O...l_3serd337vj_b

CliffordK

I try to keep my bikes dry, and don't grease a lot of stuff.

I did buy some loctite - purple for a few things including Italian bottom brackets.