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Moving shifter from downtube to handlebars in 1995 bike?

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Old 12-16-20, 04:56 AM
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Moving shifter from downtube to handlebars in 1995 bike?

I have an old classic TREK 1000 with 7 sprocket cassette with friction shifter levers on the downtube. The bike is a great rider but having to reach way
down to shift gears in some situations is very dangerous and makes me not want to ride the bike in any hilly areas.. I have been considering getting some kind
of handbar shifter and would like to use an STI shifter to combine with the brake lever and while I think I can find some 7 speed shifters either new
or old and used I am worried that I might not be able to locate and anchor the shifter cable housing the way bikes are supposed to. I dont think the
bike is worth the expense of having someone weld to the aluminum frame so I wonder if there are any clamp on devices or something that works with
radiatior hose clamps etc. I am trying to decide on whether to keep the bike original in which case is is only useful for long level and unchanging roads
where shifting gears is not needed. or risk screwing it up and have it not work which will result in me trying to convert it back to original.
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Old 12-16-20, 05:30 AM
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I'm not sure if there's anything unusual about the shifter bosses on a 95 Trek 1000, but shifter boss adjusters are the usual answer:
https://problemsolversbike.com/produ...usters_-_33831
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Old 12-16-20, 06:46 AM
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Shimano ST-A070 or MicroShift R7

I've used both, and like the MicroShift paddle configuration better. You'll need cable stops on the downtube, the kind that fit over the existing shifter bosses.
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Old 12-16-20, 07:10 AM
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Here is a guy showing you haw to do it on a 90s Trek 1000:https://www.youtube.com/watch?app=de...ature=youtu.be
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Old 12-16-20, 07:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Phil_gretz
Shimano ST-A070 or MicroShift R7

I've used both, and like the MicroShift paddle configuration better. You'll need cable stops on the downtube, the kind that fit over the existing shifter bosses.
Sime kind of in-line cable adjusters might also be convenient.
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Old 12-16-20, 07:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Thomas15
Sime kind of in-line cable adjusters might also be convenient.
The Shimano and PS stops have adjusters.

https://www.universalcycles.com/shop...s.php?id=16733
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Old 12-16-20, 07:56 AM
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Originally Posted by dedhed
The Shimano and PS stops have adjusters.

https://www.universalcycles.com/shop...s.php?id=16733
oh ok
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Old 12-16-20, 08:17 AM
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If the free hub can take an 8 speed cassette, perhaps consider going 8 speed. Check if the rd could do it, but I suspect it would. Shifters would probably be the same cost?

no matterwhat, does he have to look into the throw/pull for the fd?

I considered this for my older 7 spd tourer many years ago but I don't think microshift was around then. Just left it as is, but spent decades riding dt so have no problems using it safely. That said, dont ride this bike much and don't miss dt at all, especially in city riding.
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Old 12-16-20, 09:14 AM
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Ok many thanks for the help. So I get shifter boss adjusters and micro shift shifter ( I only want to do the rear gears setup as I rarely even in hilly areas use the front deraiuler
and I will leave it on the downtube if possible to save money. ( I assume you can convert only one side ? ) or does the new shifter boss replacement convert both sides ?
Now the question of the rear deraileur and rear sprocket set. I can keep the existing 7 sprockets and they will work with a new Microshift 7 speed shifter.... Correct ?

I think if I get much more than this money wise, I would just as well take the same money and buy a used bike with handle bar shifters already on it. and sell the Trek 1000
in its original form. It is significantly lighter than any of my other bikes so I think it must have been a little bit high end at least compared to my other bikes.
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Old 12-16-20, 09:33 AM
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Originally Posted by preventec47
( I only want to do the rear gears setup as I rarely even in hilly areas use the front deraiuler
and I will leave it on the downtube if possible to save money. ( I assume you can convert only one side ? )
Here are a couple of other options. CX – Compatible with Shimano Road Derailleurs – Gevenalle Allows you to keep the FD shifter on the downtube and you can switch out the included shift lever with the friction lever you already have or buy an indexed 7sp shifter separately. You can also get the Audax version for $10 more that has shifter mounts on both sides and allows you to use your current friction shift levers. AUDAX – Shifting Systems with Friction Shifters or available without shift levers. – Gevenalle Not sure if this is in your price range but these are upgradable to various indexed speed options by just switching out the levers for not too much $$.

Last edited by Crankycrank; 12-16-20 at 09:38 AM.
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Old 12-16-20, 10:51 AM
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Originally Posted by preventec47
I would just as well take the same money and buy a used bike with handle bar shifters already on it. and sell the Trek 1000
in its original form. It is significantly lighter than any of my other bikes so I think it must have been a little bit high end at least compared to my other bikes.
the 1000 was gone from the Trek catalogs by 1993. It was the bottom of the Trek aluminum frame models, but still a good bike. I had an 88 that served me well for years.

Vintage Trek Bicycle Catalogs and Bike Brochures, Fisher, Klein LeMond
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Old 12-16-20, 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by preventec47
Ok many thanks for the help. So I get shifter boss adjusters and micro shift shifter ( I only want to do the rear gears setup as I rarely even in hilly areas use the front deraiuler
and I will leave it on the downtube if possible to save money. ( I assume you can convert only one side ? ) or does the new shifter boss replacement convert both sides ?
Now the question of the rear deraileur and rear sprocket set. I can keep the existing 7 sprockets and they will work with a new Microshift 7 speed shifter.... Correct ?

I think if I get much more than this money wise, I would just as well take the same money and buy a used bike with handle bar shifters already on it. and sell the Trek 1000
in its original form. It is significantly lighter than any of my other bikes so I think it must have been a little bit high end at least compared to my other bikes.
You can just convert one side; Tour de France competitors used to have one shifter on the bars and one on the downtube BITD.
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Old 12-16-20, 02:56 PM
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As @dsbrantjr said ^, you can convert only the right shifter. The downtube bosses are sold in pairs, unless you can scrounge one at your local bike shop or coop parts bin. You understand that the feel of your brake hoods will be drastically different between the right hand and left, don't you? This would bother me unacceptably. What is your budget for this conversion? You'll have to factor in cable housing and inner cables as well. You need to think this through.

As to compatibility, yes, MicroShift will index Shimano equipment properly.
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Old 12-16-20, 03:42 PM
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Thanks for that historical link. Based upon serial number I have determined my Trek 1000 is a 1990 model. Some of the components
have been upgraded and as it sits fully ready to ride it weighs 23 pounds which is much lighter than any other of the dozen bikes I have
owned over the last 40 years. I hate the shifters however and unless I am riding rail road tracks or at the beach where I never shift,
I always ride other bikes with the shifters I like.
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Old 12-16-20, 03:46 PM
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Originally Posted by dsbrantjr
You can just convert one side; Tour de France competitors used to have one shifter on the bars and one on the downtube BITD.
I am a cheapskate but the guys in the TDF race were not. WHY did they only use one shifter on the bars ? What does BITD mean ?
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Old 12-16-20, 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Phil_gretz
As @dsbrantjr . What is your budget for this conversion? You'll have to factor in cable housing and inner cables as well. You need to think this through.
.
Yes of course, I need to think it through. It is mostly not how much money I have to spend but as I said earlier if I wind up putting a lot into the bike at expensive parts prices and labor etc and the headache of not working and re-doing etc I realize I would do a lot better just buying a nicer used bike that came from factory with all the improvements all designed and fully tested etc.
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Old 12-16-20, 03:56 PM
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This is what you want: https://www.gevenalle.com/product/audax/ you can use your old shifters and have proper brake levers that are just brake levers which normal STI levers don't afford.

Don't bother with tourney shifters unless absolutely desperate.

In terms of the STI on bars and down tube in place because shifting is rarely done on the front derailleur so to save weight they kept the front downtube shifter as it weighs vey little and allows them to cut weight out. Now more and more are having to add weight to the bikes as the UCI minimum is quite outdated but back in those days the minimum wasn't as bad with the bikes of the day. Still outdated ATMO but harder to achieve.
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Old 12-16-20, 04:18 PM
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Most everyone here has done this. Here are my thoughts.

If it is a 1990, the 1000 came with has a 7 speed Suntour Blaze. Not knowing your upgrades, having a Shimano drivetrain on your Trek is the first question. If it is Suntour; derailleurs, hubs, a freehub (Suntour cassette) just complicates things... a lot.

If you upgraded everything to Shimano (index compatible), then it is just a matter of adding downtube shifter boss stops with barrel adjusters, new cables and housings, and the shifters of your choice.

However, if in your upgrading you decided to use Shimano Dura Ace 74XX derailleurs, you have more issues.

You should really list your drive train components.

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Old 12-16-20, 04:43 PM
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Originally Posted by preventec47
I am a cheapskate but the guys in the TDF race were not. WHY did they only use one shifter on the bars ? What does BITD mean ?
BITD-Back in the day. As veganbikes mentioned when the STI shifters first came out they were very heavy compared to downtube shifters and since carbon fiber frames where in their infancy at the time dropping weight was far more difficult with most still using steel frames in the pro's. Soooo, some pro's would use just the right STI shifter and particularly on mountain stages.
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Old 12-16-20, 05:05 PM
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Originally Posted by veganbikes
This is what you want: https://www.gevenalle.com/product/audax/ you can use your old shifters and have proper brake levers that are just brake levers which normal STI levers don't afford.
That is significantly more expensive than the Microshift or Tourney shifters. And the Microshift lever also has a brake lever which is just a brake lever.
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Old 12-16-20, 10:19 PM
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Originally Posted by icemilkcoffee
That is significantly more expensive than the Microshift or Tourney shifters. And the Microshift lever also has a brake lever which is just a brake lever.
But also of higher quality and allows you to continue to use the same downtube shifters. I never said they were cheaper though.
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Old 12-16-20, 10:24 PM
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Originally Posted by preventec47
I am a cheapskate but the guys in the TDF race were not. WHY did they only use one shifter on the bars ? What does BITD mean ?
Downtube shifters were lighter than integrated brake/shifter mechanisms.

They may also be a bit more reliable. Indexed front derailleur shifters can sometimes drop a chain, which is disastrous in a race, especially on steep climbs where we lose momentum quickly. My bike with Microshift R7 will occasionally drop the chain on a front derailleur shift, but I can always horse it back onto the chainring. It's happened only once on a group ride and another fellow put a hand on my back to help keep up momentum while I horsed it back onto the chainring. Good to have experienced riding partners.

Not that many pros opted for the combination of a downtube shifter on the left for the front derailleur and integrated shifter/brake for convenience with the rear derailleur. Lance Armstrong, notably, did on a few mountain stages.

I haven't seen many, if any, cyclists opting for the downtube FD shifter for tackling KOMs on genuine climbs, Everesting challenges or those British autumn hill climbing contests. Most go for the convenience of brifters. But those are basically time trials, not racing in a peloton. Different techniques and strategies.

BITD: back in the day.
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Old 12-17-20, 07:56 AM
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If you haven't purchased the shifter boss adjusters, send me a message. I have a pair that you can have (pretty old dura-ace) if you pay for postage. I think I even tossed a third in the same bag. Just let me know.
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Old 12-17-20, 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by 70sSanO
If it is a 1990, the 1000 came with has a 7 speed Suntour Blaze. Not knowing your upgrades, having a Shimano drivetrain on your Trek is the first question. If it is Suntour; derailleurs, hubs, a freehub (Suntour cassette) just complicates things... a lot.
You should really list your drive train components.
John, you are correct. I have not had the bike very long and was not familiar with the individual parts etc. Apparently the previous owner(s)
had done some upgrades to the bike. Here is the current configuration. to start..... from what I can tell, the things they did not
change are the brake levers and brake calipers. which are Diacomp BRS Blaze brake calipers and brake handles and the
Front Deraileur I think is original Suntour Blaze. ( I can make out "Blaze" for sure and Suntour possible from the little markings still left.

Changed / Upgraded:
I cannot tell if the rear sprockets are original but there are seven of them.
The front two Sprockets are Shimano Biopace with Shimano 600 crank arms.
The rear Deraileur is a Shimano 600, Shimano 1050 lever shifters on downtube
Mavic Rims front and back.

John, as far as what you said complicates things, how can I tell what kind of rear sprockets it has ?
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Old 12-17-20, 07:48 PM
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What complicates things is the Suntour front derailleur- it's probably not compatible with the STI shifter. You will need to swap it out in favor of a Shimano front derailleur that is designed to work with STI shifters.
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