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Just a few questions!

Old 07-15-05, 10:14 AM
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Just a few questions!

Hi,

i am trying to currently sort out two bikes at the moment: Mine nd my Uncles.

1. My Uncles bike needs a new crank. If i bought one are they easy to fix on? Are their any special tools needed?

2. On my bike the brake discs were sqealing, so I'd thought some WD40 sould sort it out. Now neither brakes work. I think they may be worn but i don't know how to tell what pads I need? Its a Promax something.

3. Also now On my bike I tried to fix the rear derailluer (didn't cycle through gears properly) I sorted it out now Front derailler doesn't work! (H and L screws are already loose ) How can I tighten the cables as I think this may help?

4. Lastly on my bike the quick release keeps working itself loose and the wheel is not straight in forks. Any help with this?
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Old 07-15-05, 10:47 AM
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1. What sort of bike is it? You'll probably need a crank puller, and a bottom bracket tool. Its not the easiest job if you haven't done it before. What is wrong with the crank that makes you think it needs replacement?

2. WD40 contains a lubricant. Your disc brakes work due to friction. If you lubricate them, they can't work. I hope you aren't working on cars too... You will need to clean them thoroughly, and hope you haven't destroyed the brake pads by impregnating them with lubricating oil. I recommend getting a can of Brake Cleaner at an auto parts store, and spraying the brake rotors and pads down, hopefully this will remove the WD40 and allow your brakes to function again. WD40 is not a good solution to most problems.

Replacement pads may be hard to come by. Promax is a department store brand, and I'm not sure where you'd get replacements. Your best bet would be to go to a bike shop to see if the pad is the same as a regular brand.

3. You aren't supposed to loosen the H and L screws... The position of those screws determine the Highest and Lowest positions of the derailleur. If they are both loose, then the derailleur will go too far to each side, and throw your chain off. You should shift all the way down, and then begin tightening the L screw until the cage of the derailleur is in line with the smallest chainring. Then shift all the way up to the highest gear, and then start tightening the H screw until the cage is inline with the largest chainring. You can adjust the cable tension by turning a barrel shaped adjuster on the derailleur, where the cable housing connects. But don't mess with that until you've set the limit screws properly.

4. Assuming your wheel or your fork isn't bent, then you just need to open the quick release, settle the wheel all the way into the dropouts, and then tighten it. You should have to use some force to close the quick release lever, not a ton, but enough that when you close the lever with your palm, it leaves a mark on your palm for a moment. If its too loose, tighten the nut on the other side of the quick release a little at a time until the quick release lever closes with enough force.

You should get a book on bicycle maintainence, and read this webpage: https://parktool.com/repair_help/FAQindex.shtml

It seems like you are jumping into a few repairs without fully understanding them, which may cause you a lot more headache in the future. Its better to have the right tools, and to follow directions closely to make sure you don't miss a detail that could comprimise your safety.

peace,
sam
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Old 07-18-05, 08:14 AM
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Thanks, sorry for the late reply I had a weekend break.

1. The bike has no crank. I was thinking about this one: https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/M...x?ModelID=7807 but I am worried it won't fit. What should I look for on the bottom braket to make it fit. Or what one should I buy?

2. I did remove alot of the dirt from the brakes and it has helped.

3. Thanks, the front derailleur is sorted

4. Thanks, but the front wheel is not in the middle of the two forks, but I do have disc brakes on one side of the wheel. Does that mean it is fine, although it does not look right?

Thank you for your replies.
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Old 07-18-05, 12:59 PM
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4. No, the wheel's rim should be in the middle of the forks. Is the hub loose? Can you re-adjust the wheel in the dropouts to make it work?

2. Spraying WD-40 on things that make noise is almost never a good idea. It never really fixes the problem.

1. You're going to have to know something about the bottom bracket in order to even come close. Is it a square taper? Loose Ball or Cartridge? Spindle-length? Shell width? Don't buy anything until you can be pretty sure it'll work. Is the bottom bracket in good shape? If that's okay, the only tool you should need is something to torque the crank bolt, since you won't need to adjust it or remove cranks... whatever bolt your bottom bracket uses is all you'll need. Do you know what cranks were on it?
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Old 07-18-05, 03:39 PM
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Originally Posted by phidauex
1. What sort of bike is it?
It's an X-Mart bike. I can tell because he said "Promax" and "brake" in the same sentence.

Now Shredder, before you do anything, and especially before you spend any money on parts, do what phidauex said and get a book on bicycle mechanics and read through Park Tool's repair guide website, and read both thoroughly, again and again. Only then will you know exactly what parts you need and what you need to do. And then you might be in trouble because your bike has a one-piece, or even worse, a thread-in crank and you can't find a replacement. If you don't want to spend the time, then take your bikes to the bike shop, the repair bill will probably be reasonable.
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Old 07-19-05, 01:52 AM
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Thanks,

I have taken a few BB measurements. It's a square taper,
Axel Length: 21.72mm
Axel Diameter 12.7mm - 16.3mm (Gets bigger as it moves in!)

I was thinking about getting the "Zinn Art to MTB Maintenance". Is this a good book or should another be better?

I think maybe I should do some reading first!
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Old 07-19-05, 02:18 AM
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Whoops.

From either end it is 130.5mm. But how do I know if it is the right crank for it?

Also I tested to see whether it is the front wheel. I put antoher wheel in the forks and it is in the middle (But the spokes were rubbing against the caliper bit?). I have noticed that the spokes on my rim aren't even it looks like ones side sticks out more than the other? Its not in the middle though, should I be worried about this or not?
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Old 07-19-05, 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Shredder
Whoops.

From either end it is 130.5mm. But how do I know if it is the right crank for it?

Also I tested to see whether it is the front wheel. I put antoher wheel in the forks and it is in the middle (But the spokes were rubbing against the caliper bit?). I have noticed that the spokes on my rim aren't even it looks like ones side sticks out more than the other? Its not in the middle though, should I be worried about this or not?
About your front wheel, I'm getting the impression that you're concerned about the hub being asymmetrical in the fork, and one side's spokes being at a different angle than the other side. The reason for this is that the disk brake system takes up some space on the left side of the front hub, so the spokes can't be mounted out as far on that side. This is completely normal for all disk brake bikes. The only thing that should concern you is whether or not the rim is lined up side to side at the top of the fork.

About your Uncle's crank/bottom bracket, I'm not aware of a crank that's available to match such a long spindle. It sounds like you're measuring it properly, though. It's just the overall length of the spindle (I'm guessing yours is officially a 130mm spindle). Here's the definitive BB sizing page: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/bbsize.html
Since bottom brackets are fairly inexpensive relative to cranksets, I'd advise you to choose the new crank first, then get a new bottom bracket to fit. This situation is a perfect time to take advantage of your local bike shop's expertise. Ask them to help you choose a suitable crank, and then ask them to help you match a bottom bracket to both the frame (important!) and the new crank.

You'll get it all sorted out eventually. Zinn's book that you mentioned is a very good comprehensive resource. Sheldon Brown's online articles and Park Tool's repair section of their website are invaluble as well. Just take your time and make sure you get it right. Good luck!
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Old 07-19-05, 05:06 PM
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Ok. But I only have a basic bike nothing made by a decent make! Will the book still be good or should a different book be better for my needs.

Sorry one more question. I just got a flat and I wanted to know the best way to prevent them? Should I get:

Thicker tyre tubes or Self healing ones
and
Does anyone know of any tyres 26*1.9-2.1 Semi Slick puncture proof.

Whats the best way to prevent them tubes or tyre? Sounds stupid I know.
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Old 07-19-05, 07:48 PM
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The best way to prevent flats is to make sure you install/fix it right the first time. Make sure you find the source of the puncture in the tread/sidewall of the tire. Inflate properly. Some people will probably tell you that expensive tires and/or tire liners are good flat deterrants, but I've had good luck with cheap tires from nashbar when installed properly sans liners. Note that no tire is "puncture proof." check some online dealers or your local bike shop for specific tires.
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