Air compressor specs for tubeless tire installation?
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Interesting interpretation, but not surprisingly at this point, I disagree with your assessment, and I think the Enve statements do contradict your perspective. Nowhere do they say to wrap multiple layers or continue to wrap to overcome fit problems. Nowhere do they say that tape is a functional part of the bead/rim interface. Further, they clearly state the importance of tight production tolerances, so it's ridiculous to think that mounding tape to unknown tolerances would make any sense.
You are right, they do not go into what to do if the fit is loose. They assume it is NOT lose. They are assuming it is a proper fit. And if it IS a proper fit, you would not need to add additional layers of tape OR do what you are talking about. So what is their recommended solution to tires that do not fit tightly? Don't use them, as they are dangerous. They even give a list of tires that are OK to use to avoid this problem.
In fact, they even show what happens if you DO manage to mount one that is fitting loosely: it blows off. So the takeaway from that (for me) is just because you CAN get it mounted with enough air, does not mean you should.
Look, I've taken this as far as I care to. I did not intend to start an argument, I was just trying to help, and it is coming from experience. I've have 2 friends with a tubeless wheel that kept burping or losing air, and in both cases, it took a compressor to re-seat them. In one case the rim was just taped over the holes, so we retaped up to the walls. In the other, we just used thicker tape. We re-taped them, I was able to seat with a floor pump, and the problem was solved.
Last edited by Kapusta; 12-28-20 at 07:34 PM.
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They don't go into the subject of taping at all in THAT article, though if you look at their instructions in the link I provided, you can see them taping them from wall to wall. Again, they do not share your view that tape is a kludge or that it interferes with the bead seat.
You are right, they do not go into what to do if the fit is loose. They assume it is NOT lose. They are assuming it is a proper fit. And if it IS a proper fit, you would not need to add additional layers of tape OR do what you are talking about. So what is their recommended solution to tires that do not fit tightly? Don't use them, as they are dangerous. They even give a list of tires that are OK to use to avoid this problem.
In fact, they even show what happens if you DO manage to mount one that is fitting loosely: it blows off. So the takeaway from that is just because you CAN get it mounted with enough air, does not mean you should.
You are right, they do not go into what to do if the fit is loose. They assume it is NOT lose. They are assuming it is a proper fit. And if it IS a proper fit, you would not need to add additional layers of tape OR do what you are talking about. So what is their recommended solution to tires that do not fit tightly? Don't use them, as they are dangerous. They even give a list of tires that are OK to use to avoid this problem.
In fact, they even show what happens if you DO manage to mount one that is fitting loosely: it blows off. So the takeaway from that is just because you CAN get it mounted with enough air, does not mean you should.
You're further assuming that a loose fitting tire prior to seating, while the bead is still in the middle of the rim, is synonomous with a bead seat diameter mismatch. I haven't seen anything to indicate that is true, and do not believe that is necessarily true.
I don't dispute that piling on tape can remedy insufficient air volume for installation. I dispute that piling on tape is better than having sufficient air volume for installation.
#55
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Tape should be wide enough to cover the bead seat and go under the tyre bead. Some recommend more than one wrap for high pressure applications like a road bike tyre.
#57
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I've found this technique from YouTube eliminates the need for and air compressor or large volume pump. YMMV:
Last edited by alandmor; 01-01-21 at 01:09 PM. Reason: improve
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#58
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I never put the sealant in before since that likely creates a mess if you are a little bit noob. I pump it up without sealant. The tire will lose air over an hour without sealant, but that is fine. Then remove the valve core again and inject sealant, pump up again and roll the tire around till the sealant sealed all remaining leaks around the bead.
#59
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The charge pump has probably a 1L volume and I pump it to 70+ psi, and things seal consistently. If it didn't seat it's because I probably screwed up. A higher volume compressor might work marginally better, but that's really just brute force at that point. So basically any compressor with storage tank should work. A basic automotive tire inflator probably won't work.
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I also was thinking about getting a compressor for my new bike with tubeless tires. But then I tried CO2 cartridges and they worked wonderfully. 16 g ones were enough to sit Hutchinson Sector 32 and Continental GP 5000 32. Initial blast was enough so that I was able to finish the process by getting to the max pressure with a floor pump.