Wheel Dish vs Spoke Tension
#26
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I have seen rims completely taco due to too high of spoke tension, the NDS adds some structure but if the DS is higher then the rim can handle is takes very little side load to completely warp the rim. Not to mention exceeding the load capacity of the rim.
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This 100%, set the higher tension towards the top end of the rim specs and let the other side be whatever it is, that's what the hub allows.
I have seen rims completely taco due to too high of spoke tension, the NDS adds some structure but if the DS is higher then the rim can handle is takes very little side load to completely warp the rim. Not to mention exceeding the load capacity of the rim.
I have seen rims completely taco due to too high of spoke tension, the NDS adds some structure but if the DS is higher then the rim can handle is takes very little side load to completely warp the rim. Not to mention exceeding the load capacity of the rim.
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I'm not advising him to go up to 170, I'm trying to get across the point that it's not rocket science. The tension meter shouldn't be used to determine tension on a single spoke, but to take a survey of tensions on all the spokes to find high and low values and adjust them to the average tension for the side.
Agree on everything else.
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The problem is it looked like you were offering a legitimate number and people who have no clue what they're doing, OP being a potential case in point, might take it at face value. I try to never underestimate the ability of people to make really stupid decisions based on perceived information.
Agree on everything else.
Agree on everything else.
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#31
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The differing tensions are a result of the dish. Equal length spokes at equal tensions on both sides of the hub will center the rim between the hub flanges, and it's how I built my rim brake front wheels. Doing that on a rear wheel with unequal flange spacing from the center will still center the rim between the flanges, which is not the center of the hub.
For clarity's sake, don't continue to refer to the sides of the hub as "DS" and "NDS" simply because the freehub is on one side and the disc mount is on the other. Your DS will always be the driven side, and the NDS will always be the side that is there to support the rest of the rim. You'll confuse and irritate poor Bill, and he'll ignore your future cries for help. You should come back later and let us know how you like a fixed MTB wheel.
For clarity's sake, don't continue to refer to the sides of the hub as "DS" and "NDS" simply because the freehub is on one side and the disc mount is on the other. Your DS will always be the driven side, and the NDS will always be the side that is there to support the rest of the rim. You'll confuse and irritate poor Bill, and he'll ignore your future cries for help. You should come back later and let us know how you like a fixed MTB wheel.
#32
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As in, will a wheel that is driven by the side with greater tension going to last longer? Be stronger? Hold up to abuse better? Or is this a 100% non-issue?
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I spent some more time on this last night. I backed off the loose side to move the rim in the direction it needs to go in order to get the dish just right. I ended up with this....DS=96kgf and NDS=135kgf. At this point I can leave it, increase tension all the way around or decrease tension all the way around. Dish is perfect, trueness is perfect and tension is equal all the way around of each side. I confirmed that velocity's spec is only applicable to drive side. The NDS ends up where ever it ends up. I thought the spec was for both sides. I am leaning towards calling it good as is.
This is exactly what I did. And now I am wondering something.....is it better to be driving the side with more tension or the side with less tension or does it not make a difference?
As in, will a wheel that is driven by the side with greater tension going to last longer? Be stronger? Hold up to abuse better? Or is this a 100% non-issue?
As in, will a wheel that is driven by the side with greater tension going to last longer? Be stronger? Hold up to abuse better? Or is this a 100% non-issue?
#34
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I would go for 110 to 130kG on the drive side and let the NDS fall where it may. I try for .5 mm radial run-out and the same or less on the lateral.
One mm is .0394 inches and a small amount that you wouldn't feel.
One mm is .0394 inches and a small amount that you wouldn't feel.
#35
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#37
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You needed a single speed hub for that setup. The tension for the NDS in your setup is now about 110kG and let the DS fall where it may.
#38
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But, fixed gear is what I want and choices are very limited. Not much to choose from for fixed gear and 135mm spacing.
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A quick look at low spoke count road bike wheels will show some with DS radial, some with NDS radial. And no particular horror stories about early failures associated with either.
#41
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If you were in my position, what hub would you have used?
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#43
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I had a White Industries eccentric hub on this bike, but I came to lack faith in the design when the adjustment moved on me. I really like this shimano hub and I really like the bolt on cog. And I like the heavy 1/4in loose balls design.
If you were in my position, what hub would you have used?
If you were in my position, what hub would you have used?
#44
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The bolts that tighten them in place in the drop outs use a 5mm allen that strips very easily. Learned the hard way. The bearings are a bit undersized.
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Nice looking build, have fun with it.
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Nice looking build, have fun with it.
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#50
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Previous ''Fixed gear with Vertical Dropouts" threads acknowledge that it's a hack to work around the fixed axle position.