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How did I fare sizing and replacing my chain on my own the first time?

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How did I fare sizing and replacing my chain on my own the first time?

Old 01-25-21, 12:22 AM
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Ev0lutionz
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How did I fare sizing and replacing my chain on my own the first time?

Did a size with my old chain and cross checked it with the big big method.


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Old 01-25-21, 04:33 AM
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How well do you rate your performance?

Does it feel pleasantly taut, with crisp changes?
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Old 01-25-21, 06:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Geepig View Post
How well do you rate your performance?

Does it feel pleasantly taut, with crisp changes?
On the contrary, it seems as though my chain is skipping and I find it hard to put in the power on some cogs, worn cassette tooth?
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Old 01-25-21, 07:18 AM
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Cassette skipping with a new chain is a classic symptom of a worn cassette.
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Old 01-25-21, 07:19 AM
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I'd have left another set of links in, your big/big isn't overstretched but not by a lot while there's still enough room for the der to take a little more slack.
If its skipping over your most popular gears its time for a new cassette as well.
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Old 01-25-21, 07:40 AM
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The OP's photos clearly show the worn teeth on the cassette
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Old 01-25-21, 08:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Kabuto View Post
The OP's photos clearly show the worn teeth on the cassette
by the way how do you tell?
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Old 01-25-21, 08:43 AM
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Replace the cassette. Inspect the chainrings as well, it may be time to replace those, too, while you're at it.

I'd also say that while the chain was off was the perfect time to clean the drivetrain thoroughly. Mounting a clean chain on a dirty drivetrain doesn't make sense from a longevity or performance viewpoint.

Do you have the previous chain still? How much elongated was it over 12 full links? This information matters.
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Old 01-25-21, 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by dsbrantjr View Post
Cassette skipping with a new chain is a classic symptom of a worn cassette.
My cassette looks to be in perfectly new condition.. at least so I think. I've used a brand new chain on it with zero issues. Transferred this cassette over to a new wheel for my current bike, along with a new chain once again, and I'm now getting skip in only the two smallest cogs. Zero skip of any kind in the rest of the gears. I've been hard on those two small cogs when using this cassette on my other bike. Are the teeth worn, or is it just the bent pulleys in my derailleur causing this?

Originally Posted by Kabuto View Post
The OP's photos clearly show the worn teeth on the cassette
You need a new rear cassette asap. Id wager your front rings aren't in any better condition. Id refrain from wearing in your new chain using those old cogs.
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Old 01-25-21, 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Ev0lutionz View Post
Did a size with my old chain and cross checked it with the big big method.


I would've left the chain a little linger - that big/big looks painful
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Old 01-25-21, 11:14 AM
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Yep, I think it's one link set too short. You really didn't size it yourself, you just copied what you had on there...it should have been obvious it was a little short. And that cassette does look pretty worn.
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Old 01-25-21, 11:17 AM
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(1) IF a new chain is installed but no other mods are made, and the chain skips under load, the cassette is worn.

(2) Wear on cassette cogs is often not visible to the naked eye.

(3) if you put a new chain on and it skips under load, see (1)
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Old 01-25-21, 06:48 PM
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Originally Posted by cxwrench View Post
Yep, I think it's one link set too short. You really didn't size it yourself, you just copied what you had on there...it should have been obvious it was a little short. And that cassette does look pretty worn.
any adverse effects if itís one link short? I donít usually do cross chaining though.
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Old 01-25-21, 07:07 PM
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Originally Posted by ClydeClydeson View Post
(1) IF a new chain is installed but no other mods are made, and the chain skips under load, the cassette is worn.

(2) Wear on cassette cogs is often not visible to the naked eye.

(3) if you put a new chain on and it skips under load, see (1)
So you're confident it's the cassette? To me it seems related to the derailleur spring tension or pulleys.

This cassette is practically brand new. It wasn't skipping on my other bike when using a brand new chain. There was no slipping in small cogs when usijgnmy old 5 speed freewheel tho.

Originally Posted by Ev0lutionz View Post
any adverse effects if itís one link short? I donít usually do cross chaining though.
Nah you'll be fine just keep the chainline straight and you're good.

Change that cassette tho. Look how the teeth are bent and worn down especially in the smaller cogs. Show us a pic of your front rings.
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Old 01-25-21, 07:18 PM
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Looks good to me- that's how I do it.

More RD tension in some combos so less chance of chain drop, & lighter- if you care about such things...

also, it hardly looks like the RD could take up another inch of chain in the small/small.
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Old 01-25-21, 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Ev0lutionz View Post
any adverse effects if itís one link short? I donít usually do cross chaining though.
If you stay away from cross chain it'll be fine.

Originally Posted by Moisture View Post
So you're confident it's the cassette? To me it seems related to the derailleur spring tension or pulleys.

This cassette is practically brand new. It wasn't skipping on my other bike when using a brand new chain. There was no slipping in small cogs when usijgnmy old 5 speed freewheel tho.



Nah you'll be fine just keep the chainline straight and you're good.

Change that cassette tho. Look how the teeth are bent and worn down especially in the smaller cogs. Show us a pic of your front rings.
Pulleys and derailleur spring tension have nothing to do w/ 'skipping'. Tension on the pulley cage spring is pretty much the same regardless of it's position. All the tension on the chain is at the cog, there is zero tension on the pulleys. Well, basically zero. They almost get pushed around rather than pulled by the chain.
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Old 01-25-21, 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Kabuto View Post
The OP's photos clearly show the worn teeth on the cassette
That photo isn't very useful for showing cassette wear.

Zoomed in. The purple arrows point to the back side of the teeth. The front chainring pulls the chain, so it's the left side of the teeth that are critical. Teeth are shaped into different profiles to help with shifting.

It's a bit blurry, but the left side of some the teeth do appear to be worn. The lips at the top of the drive side of the teeth doesn't look good.

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Old 01-25-21, 08:44 PM
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Originally Posted by rm -rf View Post
That photo isn't very useful for showing cassette wear.

Zoomed in. The purple arrows point to the back side of the teeth. The front chainring pulls the chain, so it's the left side of the teeth that are critical. Teeth are shaped into different profiles to help with shifting.

It's a bit blurry, but the left side of some the teeth do appear to be worn. The lips at the top of the drive side of the teeth doesn't look good.


Hmm
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Old 01-25-21, 08:46 PM
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Originally Posted by woodcraft View Post
Hmm
Exactly. Seeing how the chain pulls against the back of the cog teeth and not the front there really isn't any wear at those points indicated by the arrows.
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Old 01-25-21, 09:03 PM
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Originally Posted by rm -rf View Post
That photo isn't very useful for showing cassette wear.
The ramps on the engaging side (red arrows) don't look worn? To me, they certainly look steeper, i.e. more worm, than the ramps on the back sides of the teeth...
Cassettes generally aren't expensive. If it was me, I'd just replace it.

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Old 01-30-21, 12:45 PM
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What Kobuto and Woodcraft said about your cassette. Regarding chain length, it's a bit of a judgement call. You can get better chain wrap and a little less tension in big-big by loosening the B screw. Shift into your lowest range (small-big). Loosen screw until the jockey pulley clears the biggest cog by, say, a couple centimeters. The closer you can get it without rumbling, the better.
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