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Replacing rear gears and chain

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Replacing rear gears and chain

Old 02-24-21, 01:46 PM
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t3rm3y
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Replacing rear gears and chain

hello, forgive me as i dont know the terms, i have a bike i have been riding during lock down, and today the chain fell off and although i put it back on it kept coming off instantly, as soon as tried to peddle. i looked at the rear gears and noticed the top 3 (the bigger ones) were very wobbly, it looks like they have a thin spacer between the gears which i assume keeps them separate and from rubbing but the top gears had play and looks to have the spacer missing, possibly broken off between gear 7 (if that is the bigger one nearest the wheel) and the wheel itself, so it wobbles and also gear 6 & 5 wobble, so when trying to change to one of these the chain just slips between the gears and stops me riding.
It also looks like the little gear wobbles, but 2, 3, & 4 seem solid like they should be. the wheel bolts seem tight.
Can i just replace the rear gears? how do i know what size?
the bike is a gt aggressor mountain bike with 21 gears 3x7 , maybe from about 2010 but very very rarely rode until last year lockdown started.. i would like to keep it as it was won in a competition and is very light, and a nice ride generally..
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Old 02-24-21, 02:09 PM
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Is this a bike from Dick's Sporting Goods or other big box discount store? You might just need to take it to a real bike shop and let them go over it. Bikes get shipped disassembled to an extent. And the big box discount stores don't have their high paid employees putting them together. They sometimes contract it out, but the pay so little per bike assembled that the person has to work at a very fast speed, so careless just happens.

Some LBS's might balk, but if they do, check with another.
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Old 02-24-21, 02:13 PM
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you need to figure out if you have a freewheel or a cassette. those are two totally different things that do the same thing. look that up. based on the data I can find, it looks like the 2010 Aggressor has a 7-speed freewheel.

if your freewheel "wobbles" that is common and there's not much you can do about it. I doubt it's causing any problems unless somethings is severely damaged by a big impact.

There are a lot of moving parts on a shifting drivetrain that might need attention. from the top down:
  • shifters need to operate smoothly. if they are sluggish and don't engage and stay in the right gear, you might need to open them up and flush them out to get them moving again.
  • cables need to be as friction-free as possible. if the plastic lining inside the shift housing is worn or gummed up, the shifting will suffer. if the housing ends were not cut and capped correctly, shifting will suffer. if the cables themselves are corroded (or worse, rusty) or fraying under tension, shifting will decline.
  • derailers need to be adjusted. cable tension, alignment, limit screws, etc. need to be set just right. the rear derailer hanger must be aligned, and one of the most common causes of poor shifting is a hanger that is bent from being knocked when the bike fell over or crashed.
  • cogs and chainring teeth need to be in good shape. they wear out with time and miles.
  • the chain needs to move freely and smoothly. chains also wear out with wear, usually long before the cog and ring teeth wear out.
books have literally been written on this topic. you're have to take some time to familiarize yourself with basic terms and functions of your bike or all of the suggestions you get on this forum will sound like gibberish to you. spend some time with Sheldon Brown's website and Park Tool videos to start.
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Old 02-24-21, 02:56 PM
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Thanks. I'm not sure where the bike came from it was my mother in law's she won it in a competition and let me have it when I had to move house.
the rear gears don't wobble a slight amount they proper move and tilt. Can I upload video here? I can take a vid. I checked my son's bike and another mountain bike and the rear gears are solid and don't have any play yet mine appear definitely damaged. I don't recall noticing this before today.
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Old 02-24-21, 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by t3rm3y View Post
Can I upload video here? I can take a vid.
You can't until you have ten post and maybe a full day. But you can write the URL to get to your video or pic's if you just simply write the URL in the plain text of your message. Remove the https:// and put a space on either side of the . then it's no longer a URL and the SPAM filters will let it pass.

Some hosting sites require you to be a member to view or get overly concerned about just anyone viewing, so you might try to access that URL without logging in to see if anyone else can too. Some sites have a special URL you have to get through their "share" function.
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Old 02-24-21, 03:46 PM
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here's a good start How much Freewheel wobble is ok?
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Old 02-25-21, 03:54 AM
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I have taken a video, i have a couple more or can take more if needed.
drive.google . com/file/d/1fYNJovEG2jD81LLHBdDDVv8UisMAFwMa/view?usp=sharing
If you can see a small ring between the gears which looks missing on the last one (possibly damaged and fallen off)
The smallest gear also seems to be slightly further apart from the others and although it doesnt wobble when i moved into this gear the chain just slips between the smallest and 2nd gear.
its got a lot of Shimano parts on the bike do i just buy a 7 gear shimano cassette (i think im learning the terms) and pop it on - is there anything to watch when buying a replacement?
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Old 02-25-21, 06:28 AM
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You need to determine if you have a freewheel or cassette hub. They are not cross-compatible. Then you will need the correct tools to remove and install the new part. The correct tool will depend on which part you have.
I am pretty certain that is a busted FREEWHEEL. go to the Park tool website to find the correct tool and procedure for removing it. Installing a new one is as simple as greasing the threads and screwing it back on.
Is there a bicycle co-op near you?

Last edited by mack_turtle; 02-25-21 at 06:36 AM.
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Old 02-25-21, 06:32 AM
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My immediate thought is that it's a 7-speed cassette, and that the lockring is loose. We need a photo of the gear cluster, close up, to see the outboard face where there's writing.
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Old 02-25-21, 08:27 AM
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well thanks for that, i took the wheel off (didnt want to before as wasnt sure of what tools would be needed, but came off easy enough)
The gears are all separate and it looks like the lockring is loose, as the gears started to fall off when the wheel was removed.
I can put the gears back on and hand tighten the lockring and the gears now look correct again with no wobble - what tool is needed to tighten this lock ring please? it has 4 notches, but the tools i see all look different and unlikely to fit and the wheel as the axel is there (and i didnt want to mess with that pushing it out in case that didnt go back..
The lockring is a SunRace with 4 notches on the inside.
I found the same item on another forum which says use a Park FR-1.3 but this doesnt look the right size?
in the image mine that was loose is the outer / closer Sun race ring with 400Kkgfcm , not the gruby one inset with Taiwan written on it..
www . mtbr.com/threads/sunrace-freewheel-removal.1113569/#lg=thread-1113569&slide=0
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Old 02-25-21, 08:39 AM
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it appears to me that one of the plastic spacers that go between the cogs on the freewheel has broken off. without that spacer, you can't tighten the lock ring. it's possible to find a replacement spacer and put it back together if you can find a donor freewheel. if there's a bike co-op nearby where you can source one, it might be worth the effort. otherwise, just replace it.

where are you located?

I've recommended the Park Tool site several times. go there and look up freewheel removal. the Park FR-1.3 is most likely the correct tool. the Park site will explain how that works.
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Old 02-25-21, 10:19 AM
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Im in UK.

FR-1.3 looks to be too round, too many little notches / 12 splines,

My lockring has 4 barely noticeable notches, in that photo from the other page you can just see these, one of them is adjacent to the word "Lock" with the arrow obscuring the bottom of the "22" and slightly obscuring the bottom of the letters on the word Taiwan.

Another notch is to its right, over the letters "ACE" on the word RACE. There's another at the top, but hard to see due to shadow, and the 4th one is on the left, by the letters "US PAT"

These are all part of the ring that is quite thin, This was loose, and when removed the gears were all able to fall off easily. I can hand tighten it but dont have a tool that will fully tighten it up.

That other page says use the park fr1.3 to remove the freewheel, but dont remove the lockring. I need the tool that will tighten the lockring.
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Old 02-25-21, 01:52 PM
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Hi, i have just seen another thread from 2015 regarding the exact same thing, the OP was advised to ignore the ring lock and the 4 notch thing and use a Park FR1 - this doesnt look to exist now, so do you know if the PARK FR1.3 is the same ?

www . bikeforums.net/bicycle-mechanics/1021041-sunrace-cassette-lock-ring-tool.html


Originally Posted by mack_turtle View Post
it appears to me that one of the plastic spacers that go between the cogs on the freewheel has broken off. without that spacer, you can't tighten the lock ring. it's possible to find a replacement spacer and put it back together if you can find a donor freewheel. if there's a bike co-op nearby where you can source one, it might be worth the effort. otherwise, just replace it.


where are you located?


I've recommended the Park Tool site several times. go there and look up freewheel removal. the Park FR-1.3 is most likely the correct tool. the Park site will explain how that works.
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Old 02-25-21, 01:58 PM
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Like I said, the Park Tool site answers your question: https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair...d-installation

There's no point in trying to tighten the lock ring unless you have a spacer for that freewheel to reassemble it. you need to remove the whole freewheel and replace the whole unit with another freewheel. it should not be difficult to find a replacement, and they are cheap. the cogs will never get tight because they are missing a spacer.

Last edited by mack_turtle; 02-25-21 at 02:03 PM.
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Old 02-25-21, 02:04 PM
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You need to go to a bike shop or a co-op if there is one in your area if you want to get your bike properly fixed.
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Old 02-25-21, 02:35 PM
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Another plus for going to the shop and letting them deal with it is that some of the tools you need might only be needed this one time. And some bike shops here wouldn't charge that much to fix your issue if all it is is a matter of tightening that lock nut.

Also, it might be that you just need a entirely new parts. And any tools you buy to remove them might not be the tools to put the new stuff on. And they may also only be needed that one time in your life. I've got several tools for bikes that have been sitting in my toolbox that have only been used once and never will be used again. Just because it's made for bikes doesn't mean that every bike requires that tool.
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Old 02-25-21, 02:44 PM
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the park tool for removing a freewheel is only needed to remove it. freewheels thread back on without tools. grease on the threads is a good idea. don't cross-thread it.

agreed that buying that tool for a one-time use might be silly. that particular tool is very inexpensive though. if you plan on working on a lot of cheap bikes, it's a good idea to have one. otherwise, a bike shop or co-op can get it popped off the one time and you might never use that tool again. most bikes that are not base-level cheap bikes don't use a freewheel.

t3rm3y is going to need to be more resourceful in finding instructions and reading them on his own to get through this. with all the moving parts in a drivetrain, he needs to be willing to dig in and find specific answers with resources we recommend. online advice only goes so far because any mechanic needs to examine and touch the bike in question to diagnose and adjust it. if you can't be bothered to look up "how to remove Sunrace freewheel," you need to just drop it off at a bike shop. the techniques and tools needed to do this are not difficult to master, but there's only so much internet hand-holding possible before you need to roll up your sleeves and do it yourself.

Last edited by mack_turtle; 02-25-21 at 02:58 PM.
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Old 02-25-21, 03:31 PM
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Thanks I'll look at any local bike shops as locating a park tool doesn't seem too easy in UK.
I can't see any missing spacers now that the cassette and freehub are all back on. I initially thought a spacer may have fallen off due to the amount of paly/wobble but as soon as I took the wheel off and the locking simply fell off, each cog was then free to call off , or slide off . I have mounted them back on in the correct order and I guess due to use each cog only fit onto the hub in a particular way - the groves must have some wear to them. ( Or that's their design).
With the locking tight the whole gear looks good. I just need a bike shop to fully tighten it now to road test.
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Old 02-26-21, 04:24 AM
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mack_turtle hi, i do appreciate all the answers and help, and i get that it can be difficult to assist when it is all remote and you only have my description to go on, my uncertainty and confusion is because the parktool site doesn't show a tool that looks like it fits and some of the answers say i have a freewheel, but when i look on the parktool site it looks more like i have a cassette and freehub, the gears dont thread on to the wheel they slot on over the freehub. And i dont want to remove the thing , i only want to tighten the lock ring which is the only part that threads on after the smallest / last gear. but its a thin disc and i can only turn it so far by pushing it with my fingers, i think it would need to be far tighter as it shows lock ---> 400 kgfcm (which i assume is some measurement of force).
I'll see if i have any local places i can take it to who may be able to help, it may be difficult with lockdown and living in a village i dont have much around.
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Old 02-26-21, 07:57 AM
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I am fairly certain that's a freewheel. the correct tool to which you've been referred does not engage the lock ring that you're looking at, but the deeper ring inside it. when you get ahold of one of those tools, it will make more sense. please just trust me on this as I've done it literally hundreds of times.

my favorite way to get one of those off is to clamp the tool in a table vice, mount the wheel on the tool, and spin the wheel anti-clockwise. you can get a ton of torque by gripping the tires with both hands on opposite sides.
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Old 02-26-21, 08:11 AM
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can you share a photo of the end of the freewheel? remove the wheel and the axle nut or skewer that's in the way. or share a photo of a product photo of the exact same item.


this photo is pretty clear. if yours looks like this, the 12 splines in the middle are what you use with a tool like the Park FR-1.3 to remove it. there are a few tools available that LOOK like that 12-spline tool that are for cassette lockrings and Shimano Centerlock disc rotors, but that is not the same tool, so don't mix them up.

I am familiar with that four-slot lockring, but I've never had to tighten one. the last time I saw a loose freewheel, it was because one of the spacers between the cogs had shattered. there was no way to fix it at that point. if the lockring is really loose, try removing it with your fingers. it might be "left hand threaded" and come off when you turn it clockwise. if it comes right off, slide the cogs and spacers off the freewheel body to inspect them. it's fun to take things apart! clean and reassemble. the trick will be getting that lockring tight again, which is the main reason you came here. unfortunately, I don't have an answer for that. I have never known those to be serviceable. I'd like to know if anyone knows where one of those tools can be found. obviously it exists because Sunrace assembles these, but it might be a one-off special tool that part of a machine where they mass-produce these in Asia.

you'll probably need to get creative with some Loctite 424 and tongue-and-groove pliers.
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Old 02-26-21, 08:13 AM
  #22  
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Park Tools ARE available in the UK! Check out ProBikeKit.co.uk.
And yes, the “400 kgfcm” refers to how much torque needs to be applied to the lock ring when tightening it. A calibrated torque wrench is required to do it properly but I’m sure that many “self described” bike mechanics just guess at how tight the lock ring needs to be. Seems like whoever assembled that bike guessed wrong.
As already mentioned, many specialized bicycle tools are specific to a task and unless person plans on disassembling and reassembling bikes on a regular basis, may be used once and that’s it!
I’m going along with the suggestion to take the bike (or at least the rear wheel and cassette components) to a proper bike shop for evaluation and repair.
Finally, if the photo posted is actually that of the bike in question, I dare say that a bit of TLC is in order. Just sayin’.
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Old 02-26-21, 11:34 AM
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annoyingly i had some adjustable wrench pliers that had a slight curve and i was able to get these on and turn the ring a fair bit more so not its quite tight (whether it meets the 400 kgfcm i dont know) i did this before seeing your update. I will try the bike over the weekend, and if it works loose ill have to look at maybe replacing the wheel / gears.
I have checked and the spacers all seem present and ok. theres a fair amount of grease on it all . ill clean up some of the wheel and frame whilst the wheel is off, as the other poster felt the bike could do with some care (i never wanted to wash it in case it rusted, so i let the mud dry then just brushed it off).

Originally Posted by mack_turtle View Post
can you share a photo of the end of the freewheel? remove the wheel and the axle nut or skewer that's in the way. or share a photo of a product photo of the exact same item.


this photo is pretty clear. if yours looks like this, the 12 splines in the middle are what you use with a tool like the Park FR-1.3 to remove it. there are a few tools available that LOOK like that 12-spline tool that are for cassette lockrings and Shimano Centerlock disc rotors, but that is not the same tool, so don't mix them up.

I am familiar with that four-slot lockring, but I've never had to tighten one. the last time I saw a loose freewheel, it was because one of the spacers between the cogs had shattered. there was no way to fix it at that point. if the lockring is really loose, try removing it with your fingers. it might be "left hand threaded" and come off when you turn it clockwise. if it comes right off, slide the cogs and spacers off the freewheel body to inspect them. it's fun to take things apart! clean and reassemble. the trick will be getting that lockring tight again, which is the main reason you came here. unfortunately, I don't have an answer for that. I have never known those to be serviceable. I'd like to know if anyone knows where one of those tools can be found. obviously it exists because Sunrace assembles these, but it might be a one-off special tool that part of a machine where they mass-produce these in Asia.

you'll probably need to get creative with some Loctite 424 and tongue-and-groove pliers.
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