Torque spec (and wrench) for shimano hollow tech road crank arms?
03-20-21, 11:00 PM
#1
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Torque spec (and wrench) for shimano hollow tech road crank arms?
I知 working with Shimano cranksets (6700/R7000) that have left crank arms which list a spec of 12-14nm. I know the rule of thumb is usually to use the lowest spec that will get the job done. I知 going to be hanging both of these bikes on the wall by a pedal hanger (left crankarm side). Was thinking of picking up a 12nm torque key from Amazon to have handy when swapping things out. Is 12nm sufficient to lock these down? (I already own torque keys in 4,5,&6 nm, as well as two beam style torque wrenches - I just prefer the way a torque key won稚 let me exceed the torque setting). TIA!
03-21-21, 05:27 AM
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Sounds good to me. IME you don't want to over do it. I buggered a left arm by stripping the bolt head when I tried to remove it. Compounded by not having the patience to research a non destructive path from there on.
03-21-21, 06:35 AM
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The stress from pedaling will far exceed that exerted by the bike on the pedal hanger. I would suggest some Tef-Gelｮ or grease on the threads to avoid electrolytic corrosion/seizing, since you have a (presumably) steel against aluminum joint.
03-21-21, 06:41 AM
#4
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Yes, will definitely grease the bolts. So 12nm (min spec - sounds like enough?)
03-21-21, 08:55 AM
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If you are going to get a torque wrench, then get an adjustable torque wrench so you can use it for other things. How many times are you going to be taking the crank arms off and putting them back on?
The torque key with a fixed setting will be more useful for things you do often. Maybe your seat post bolt, particularly if carbon seat post, or maybe your stem, again particularly if carbon steerer. Even so, how often do you mess around with those?
Don't forget they are opposing bolts, so when you tighten one you loosen the other. So snug both at the same time, then check the torque if you are so inclined. I didn't on my Hollowtech II cranks.
You are going by the DM's aren't you? https://si.shimano.com/api/publish/s...001-03-ENG.pdf
The torque key with a fixed setting will be more useful for things you do often. Maybe your seat post bolt, particularly if carbon seat post, or maybe your stem, again particularly if carbon steerer. Even so, how often do you mess around with those?
Don't forget they are opposing bolts, so when you tighten one you loosen the other. So snug both at the same time, then check the torque if you are so inclined. I didn't on my Hollowtech II cranks.
You are going by the DM's aren't you? https://si.shimano.com/api/publish/s...001-03-ENG.pdf
Last edited by Iride01; 03-21-21 at 09:02 AM.
03-21-21, 12:51 PM
#7
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Thread Starter
If you are going to get a torque wrench, then get an adjustable torque wrench so you can use it for other things. How many times are you going to be taking the crank arms off and putting them back on?
The torque key with a fixed setting will be more useful for things you do often. Maybe your seat post bolt, particularly if carbon seat post, or maybe your stem, again particularly if carbon steerer. Even so, how often do you mess around with those?
Don't forget they are opposing bolts, so when you tighten one you loosen the other. So snug both at the same time, then check the torque if you are so inclined. I didn't on my Hollowtech II cranks.
You are going by the DM's aren't you? https://si.shimano.com/api/publish/s...001-03-ENG.pdf
The torque key with a fixed setting will be more useful for things you do often. Maybe your seat post bolt, particularly if carbon seat post, or maybe your stem, again particularly if carbon steerer. Even so, how often do you mess around with those?
Don't forget they are opposing bolts, so when you tighten one you loosen the other. So snug both at the same time, then check the torque if you are so inclined. I didn't on my Hollowtech II cranks.
You are going by the DM's aren't you? https://si.shimano.com/api/publish/s...001-03-ENG.pdf
03-21-21, 12:56 PM
#8
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I知
Yes. I知 going so install a Stages R7000 crank arm, so it is a pricey crank arm to mess up. It would be worth a $20 torque key for me to get it right. I use my 4, 5, and 6nm keys for regular stuff (swapping stems, flipping stems, seatpost work after saddle swaps, cleat installation, etc). Beam wrenches work fine for cassette lock rings and center lock rotors. Just wanting to be very precise with this new crank arm/power meter. Guess I could also pay my shop to torque it down.
If you are going to get a torque wrench, then get an adjustable torque wrench so you can use it for other things. How many times are you going to be taking the crank arms off and putting them back on?
The torque key with a fixed setting will be more useful for things you do often. Maybe your seat post bolt, particularly if carbon seat post, or maybe your stem, again particularly if carbon steerer. Even so, how often do you mess around with those?
Don't forget they are opposing bolts, so when you tighten one you loosen the other. So snug both at the same time, then check the torque if you are so inclined. I didn't on my Hollowtech II cranks.
You are going by the DM's aren't you? https://si.shimano.com/api/publish/s...001-03-ENG.pdf
The torque key with a fixed setting will be more useful for things you do often. Maybe your seat post bolt, particularly if carbon seat post, or maybe your stem, again particularly if carbon steerer. Even so, how often do you mess around with those?
Don't forget they are opposing bolts, so when you tighten one you loosen the other. So snug both at the same time, then check the torque if you are so inclined. I didn't on my Hollowtech II cranks.
You are going by the DM's aren't you? https://si.shimano.com/api/publish/s...001-03-ENG.pdf
03-22-21, 01:28 AM
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Yes. I知 going so install a Stages R7000 crank arm, so it is a pricey crank arm to mess up. It would be worth a $20 torque key for me to get it right. I use my 4, 5, and 6nm keys for regular stuff (swapping stems, flipping stems, seatpost work after saddle swaps, cleat installation, etc). Beam wrenches work fine for cassette lock rings and center lock rotors. Just wanting to be very precise with this new crank arm/power meter. Guess I could also pay my shop to torque it down.
