Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

Raising stem?

Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

Raising stem?

Old 04-23-21, 07:42 AM
  #1  
MrWasabi 
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
MrWasabi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Lutz, FL
Posts: 336

Bikes: 2014 Fuji Traverse 1.3, 1995 Giant CFM-4

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 78 Post(s)
Liked 32 Times in 22 Posts
Raising stem?

How easy is it to raise the stem a bit? I have some shoulder issues and have been thinking about raising mine to start before I possibly look at different handlebars. My bike is a 2014 Fuji Traverse:
https://archive.fujibikes.com/2014/Fuji/traverse-132

Thanks for any input.
MrWasabi is offline  
Old 04-23-21, 08:01 AM
  #2  
Andrew R Stewart 
Senior Member
 
Andrew R Stewart's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 14,937

Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Raleigh Pro, Trek Cycle Cross, Mongoose tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2927 Post(s)
Liked 1,208 Times in 848 Posts
First a thank you for including a link in your post. Makes our job much quicker in helping you.

The bike shows to use a threadless stem. A stem that slides over the top end of the fork's steerer tube. The top cap with it's central bolt is used to pull the stem down and achieve the headset bearing adjustment/preload. The two pinch bolts on the stem's back side will then be tightened to clamp the stem in this position.

The stem needs to fit over the steerer far enough to both provide the pressure against the spacers, and thus the bearings, AND have the top pinch bolt fully overlapping the steerer's end. If your stem is already at the top of the steerer, all the spacers are below the stem, then it is as far up as it is safe and designed to be. This is what the linked to image is BTW.

If this is the same as your bike then the stem and/or the bars will be needed to replaced with ones that have the hand grips higher. A stem with a steeper angle or a bar with a taller curve (often called "riser bars") both do this. There are steerer extenders available too but like a stem with an adjustable hinged angle the added joints can make for less secure assembles. Also a bar with a greater swept back grip area can reduce the reach forwards but does so at a change to the angle that the hands grab the grips with. Do know that the control cables/housings might need to be made longer if the higher/further from the ft brake and/or frame housing stops end up too far from the levers/controls. Also the headset will need to be readjusted if the stem or an extender is installed.

Not usually thought about till after the first longer ride is that the seat and one's bottom will interface somewhat differently as the upper body is more upright. Often a wider seat is found to be wanted. Also as the upper body angles less WRT the legs the muscle use changes. The angle between the torso and the leg lessens the more the body becomes upright. For some this "fit" change is no big deal. The more athletic the rider is the more they generally notice this and are bothered by it. The solution is to move the seat rearwards (which then increases the reach to the bars). Andy
__________________
AndrewRStewart
Andrew R Stewart is offline  
Likes For Andrew R Stewart:
Old 04-23-21, 08:10 AM
  #3  
MrWasabi 
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
MrWasabi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Lutz, FL
Posts: 336

Bikes: 2014 Fuji Traverse 1.3, 1995 Giant CFM-4

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 78 Post(s)
Liked 32 Times in 22 Posts
Wow, thanks Andy!

That is some excellent info. It sounds like I need to bring it up with my shop with the understanding of all the points you posted. I'm taking my bike in for some changes/upgrades and I'll see if they can do it. I never thought about possibly needing longer cables. Should I just be eyeballing new bars instead over raising the stem? Also, did you link an image? I don't see it if you did.

Thanks again!

Edit: What if I get a stem with a steeper angle like a 30 degree over my 12 degree?

Last edited by MrWasabi; 04-23-21 at 08:16 AM.
MrWasabi is offline  
Old 04-23-21, 08:23 AM
  #4  
Iride01
Hits [ENTER] b4 thinking
 
Iride01's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 7,170

Bikes: '20 Tarmac Disc Comp '91 Schwinn Paramount '78 Raleigh Competition GS

Mentioned: 31 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2792 Post(s)
Liked 1,427 Times in 1,040 Posts
If there aren't several spacers on top of your stem, then unlikely you can raise the current stem. You'll have to get a stem with more angle or high rise bars. Though if your stem was put on with a negative angle, you can just flip it over and get more height.

As said above, the more upright you sit, the more wider the saddle you might need. Or at least you might need sit further back on the current saddle. And that might cause you to get in a struggle with reach and sliding forward on the saddle. What we call our sit bones aren't just a bony point we sit on. They are more like rails that are close together at the front and widen toward the back. Curved too sort of like rocking chair runners.

Reach issues might be part of your shoulder problem. Sitting up might fix them, but also getting just reach corrected properly for your current position might help. Stem length, saddle setback or even no setback.

Shoulder issues might also be your bar width. But I did just say might. Too wide a bar puts your arms further out and braces your body to be more rigid. That sometimes means your shoulders and arms are taking the brunt of the swaying forces put on you by cycling. A narrower bar might let your body share some of that force.

You might can test that out by going for a ride and keep your hands inside the grips.
Iride01 is online now  
Likes For Iride01:
Old 04-23-21, 08:49 AM
  #5  
MrWasabi 
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
MrWasabi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Lutz, FL
Posts: 336

Bikes: 2014 Fuji Traverse 1.3, 1995 Giant CFM-4

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 78 Post(s)
Liked 32 Times in 22 Posts
Thank you Iride!

I think my bars are a good width and they already have a 30mm rise. Instead of molesting my current stem and trying to raise it, maybe I should just look for a 30 degree stem angle and move my seat forward as much as I can? Hoping my Brooks C17 can handle my butt with any changes. If not, I'll change that later.
MrWasabi is offline  
Old 04-23-21, 08:57 AM
  #6  
oldbobcat
Senior Member
 
oldbobcat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Boulder County, CO
Posts: 3,398

Bikes: '79 Gios, '80 Masi, '06 Felt, early '60s Frejus

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 143 Post(s)
Liked 104 Times in 77 Posts
Before going out an purchasing riser handlebars and stem, try sliding your saddle back a centimeter or so. This moves your center of gravity away from the arms and shoulders and toward your hips and feet, which is where nature intended it.
oldbobcat is offline  
Likes For oldbobcat:
Old 04-24-21, 07:50 AM
  #7  
MrWasabi 
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
MrWasabi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Lutz, FL
Posts: 336

Bikes: 2014 Fuji Traverse 1.3, 1995 Giant CFM-4

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 78 Post(s)
Liked 32 Times in 22 Posts
Thanks again for the excellent advice everyone.

I'll try tinkering with the seat a bit and talk to my shop about some options too.
MrWasabi is offline  
Likes For MrWasabi:
Old 04-24-21, 08:39 AM
  #8  
Gresp15C
Senior Member
 
Gresp15C's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 3,715
Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1002 Post(s)
Liked 554 Times in 359 Posts
I installed a threadless stem extender on my bike when I was dealing with a temporary "age related" injury. It was easy to install and did the job. Not to discount the other advice given here. When I got over my injury, I put my bike back to the way it was. The extender sits in the bin waiting for next time.
Gresp15C is offline  
Likes For Gresp15C:
Old 04-24-21, 09:05 AM
  #9  
MrWasabi 
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
MrWasabi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Lutz, FL
Posts: 336

Bikes: 2014 Fuji Traverse 1.3, 1995 Giant CFM-4

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 78 Post(s)
Liked 32 Times in 22 Posts
Thanks for the reply,

Are the extenders safe?
MrWasabi is offline  
Old 04-24-21, 09:28 AM
  #10  
GamblerGORD53
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Elevation 666m Edmonton Canada
Posts: 1,695

Bikes: 2013 Custom SA5w / Rohloff Tourster

Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 798 Post(s)
Liked 86 Times in 78 Posts
IMO, your way too straight HB is THE problem, as shown in that pic. This gives you NO back/ torso adjustment. Very stiff and uncomfortable.
So get a bar with both up sweep and rear sweep, like 30 to 40 degrees. Mine have more, about 70d, but also the necessary longer TT. I never have a sore back now, including my 8,100 miles on 2 tours with heavyweight.
So with this, likely need your seat moved back as already said.
My back is normally bent down about 30d. Only real way to have a straight back is riding with no or one hand. I used to do that some on the highways.
GamblerGORD53 is offline  
Likes For GamblerGORD53:
Old 04-24-21, 10:39 AM
  #11  
oldbobcat
Senior Member
 
oldbobcat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Boulder County, CO
Posts: 3,398

Bikes: '79 Gios, '80 Masi, '06 Felt, early '60s Frejus

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 143 Post(s)
Liked 104 Times in 77 Posts
Originally Posted by MrWasabi View Post
Thanks for the reply,

Are the extenders safe?
If used according to the manufacturer's instructions. Don't mount them above four centimeters of stem spacers, don't stack them, and don't install them on carbon steerers.
oldbobcat is offline  
Likes For oldbobcat:
Old 04-24-21, 10:59 AM
  #12  
tyrion
Senior Member
 
tyrion's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: San Diego, California
Posts: 3,390

Bikes: Breezer Radar

Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1819 Post(s)
Liked 1,170 Times in 554 Posts
I'd start with a high angle stem. 35 or 40 degrees, 110mm. The upwards angle also shortens the reach. Less than $30.

tyrion is offline  
Likes For tyrion:
Old 04-24-21, 11:56 AM
  #13  
MrWasabi 
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
MrWasabi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Lutz, FL
Posts: 336

Bikes: 2014 Fuji Traverse 1.3, 1995 Giant CFM-4

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 78 Post(s)
Liked 32 Times in 22 Posts
How are the adjustable stems I see out there? I'm hoping I can get the bars in a good position without having to replace my cables. I'll start with playing around with my seat but it looks like a new stem (or extender) and possibly handlebars are the answer. I have been doing the one handed riding at times to give my shoulder a break. What are some good bars with more upsweep/backsweep?

Last edited by MrWasabi; 04-24-21 at 12:07 PM.
MrWasabi is offline  
Old 04-24-21, 12:21 PM
  #14  
rut3556 
Member
 
rut3556's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: New Hampshire, USA
Posts: 47

Bikes: 2021 Giant Escape 2 Disc

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 19 Post(s)
Liked 25 Times in 17 Posts
I had the same issue with my Giant Escape 2, so I ended up installing an extended (and slightly adjustable) stem. It made all the difference to me.

__________________
===SEMPER FI===

rut3556 is offline  
Likes For rut3556:
Old 04-24-21, 12:29 PM
  #15  
MrWasabi 
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
MrWasabi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Lutz, FL
Posts: 336

Bikes: 2014 Fuji Traverse 1.3, 1995 Giant CFM-4

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 78 Post(s)
Liked 32 Times in 22 Posts
How about a shorter steeper type stem like this in 60mm/30 degree?
https://us.ritcheylogic.com/us_en/bi...-axis-30d-stem
MrWasabi is offline  
Old 04-24-21, 01:30 PM
  #16  
tyrion
Senior Member
 
tyrion's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: San Diego, California
Posts: 3,390

Bikes: Breezer Radar

Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1819 Post(s)
Liked 1,170 Times in 554 Posts
Originally Posted by MrWasabi View Post
How about a shorter steeper type stem like this in 60mm/30 degree?
https://us.ritcheylogic.com/us_en/bi...-axis-30d-stem
You have to make a guesstimate on how much increased rise/decreased reach you want, but ultimately it's trial and error. You can resell (or maybe even return) the stems that don't work for you.
tyrion is offline  
Likes For tyrion:
Old 04-24-21, 01:41 PM
  #17  
MrWasabi 
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
MrWasabi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Lutz, FL
Posts: 336

Bikes: 2014 Fuji Traverse 1.3, 1995 Giant CFM-4

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 78 Post(s)
Liked 32 Times in 22 Posts
Yeah, I think I'm going to end up with some extra parts. I think I'm going to skip any extenders or adjustable stems. Right now I'm looking at these bars (SQlabs 302):
https://sqlab-usa.com/products/302-s...ar-version-2-0

Or these (SQlabs 30X, 12 or 16 degree backsweep/45mm rise):
https://sqlab-usa.com/collections/ha...-mtb-handlebar

And this stem (SQlabs 802/70mm):
https://sqlab-usa.com/collections/st...31792993599559

I haven't pulled the trigger yet but with adjusting my seat a bit, it seems going with a new stem and bars are my best route. I'm just hoping my cable/brake lines will be OK.

Edit: The 70mm stem I linked is out of stock but they do have an 80mm. Wondering if that 10mm will matter? On a side note, I have a Quad Lock phone mount and the 80 might be better for that although my shoulder pain is more important over my phone mount obviously.

Last edited by MrWasabi; 04-24-21 at 02:55 PM.
MrWasabi is offline  
Old 04-24-21, 02:06 PM
  #18  
GamblerGORD53
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Elevation 666m Edmonton Canada
Posts: 1,695

Bikes: 2013 Custom SA5w / Rohloff Tourster

Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 798 Post(s)
Liked 86 Times in 78 Posts
I don't see enough difference with that bar to justify it. I suppose the 31.6 might limit choices.
Mine are old 1" steel.

Last edited by GamblerGORD53; 04-24-21 at 02:47 PM.
GamblerGORD53 is offline  
Likes For GamblerGORD53:
Old 04-24-21, 02:12 PM
  #19  
MrWasabi 
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
MrWasabi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Lutz, FL
Posts: 336

Bikes: 2014 Fuji Traverse 1.3, 1995 Giant CFM-4

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 78 Post(s)
Liked 32 Times in 22 Posts
One of the reasons I have shoulder pain is from my younger motocross days. I plan on doing some more light off pavement/hardpack trail riding with my bike and I don't think I would like bars with much more backsweep than the 302 Sports I have linked and they're pushing it IMO. My current bars have a 9 degree backsweep and the 302 Sports are at 16 degree. They do have a 302 Comfort with 35 degrees backsweep but again I don't think I'd like that much backsweep for any offroading.

Last edited by MrWasabi; 04-24-21 at 02:19 PM.
MrWasabi is offline  
Old 04-24-21, 02:54 PM
  #20  
Andrew R Stewart 
Senior Member
 
Andrew R Stewart's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 14,937

Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Raleigh Pro, Trek Cycle Cross, Mongoose tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2927 Post(s)
Liked 1,208 Times in 848 Posts
Originally Posted by oldbobcat View Post
Before going out an purchasing riser handlebars and stem, try sliding your saddle back a centimeter or so. This moves your center of gravity away from the arms and shoulders and toward your hips and feet, which is where nature intended it.
Many think this advice is counter productive, moving the seat back increases the reach. But the body's ability to tolerate reach is somewhat dependent on the core muscles doing their job of supporting the upper body. Moving the seat forwards makes the pedaling less power full and the core muscles less able to help with the weight of the upper body. Ideally both factors, hips WRT feet and arm reach combine to do the trick. This is why many seek the help of an experienced fitter (and not just the local racing focused coach who works at a shop).

I have learned a lot about fit in the last ten years working in a shop that has a really good fitter. 11 years ago I would not have thought this was a lacking in my approach to bike set up (and my hobby frame building). Andy
__________________
AndrewRStewart
Andrew R Stewart is offline  
Likes For Andrew R Stewart:
Old 04-24-21, 03:20 PM
  #21  
MrWasabi 
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
MrWasabi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Lutz, FL
Posts: 336

Bikes: 2014 Fuji Traverse 1.3, 1995 Giant CFM-4

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 78 Post(s)
Liked 32 Times in 22 Posts
When I get (and can find the proper size) a new bike I'll definitely be getting fitted and I don't mind laying out the dough for someone who know's what they're doing. The whole moving the seat back didn't make sense to me but I understand now how it may help. As for fitting on the stem, since I'm going with a steeper angle (30-35 degree), should I be looking at a longer or at least the same length stem and not shorter as won't a longer stem actually raise my arms more relative to how much further out I'd be going?
MrWasabi is offline  
Old 04-25-21, 02:30 PM
  #22  
MrWasabi 
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
MrWasabi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Lutz, FL
Posts: 336

Bikes: 2014 Fuji Traverse 1.3, 1995 Giant CFM-4

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 78 Post(s)
Liked 32 Times in 22 Posts
I went ahead and picked up the SQlabs 802 35 degree stem for a good deal to try that. I got the 100mm version:
https://sqlab-usa.com/collections/st...tem-3-18-clamp

I'm assuming a longer stem at that angle will raise the bars higher but only minimally further forward? Is this correct? I'll be adjusting the seat too and looking at some other riser bars with some more backsweep if my stem/seat adjustment doesn't help a bit.

Thanks again for the excellent advice. This is a great forum.
MrWasabi is offline  
Old 04-26-21, 06:06 AM
  #23  
Robert111
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2020
Posts: 25
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
I got a Wake 780mm aluminum bar to mount on FOMTOR stem and it was a perfect fit. This is easy to install and haven't had an issue for the first couple rides. The 60mm rise is half of what the stock stem length was, so my hand position is closer to my body, which is much more ergonomically comfortable. I definitely recommend this stem.
Robert111 is offline  
Likes For Robert111:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information -

Copyright 2021 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.