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So what the heck am I doing wrong?

Old 04-26-21, 04:41 PM
  #1  
Helderberg
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So what the heck am I doing wrong?

Trying to take the crank off my FSA crankset and it will not budge. I know the direction the nut has to turn. I have watched the videos on Youtube and they use hand pressure and it comes off easily. I am using an impact

driver and have soaked the nut with penetrating oil and it will not budge. What am I doing wrong? Any ideas are welcome as I am about to cut it off with a reciprocating saw. Only kidding but I am frustrated.
Any ideas?
Frank.
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Old 04-26-21, 06:13 PM
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More torque You're looking at 40 nm or about 30 ft/lb on it.

FSA Omega Crank Removal Help
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Old 04-26-21, 08:00 PM
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more leverage, no impact driver
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Old 04-26-21, 08:27 PM
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How did it look before you tried to remove it?


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Old 04-26-21, 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by cobba View Post
How did it look before you tried to remove it?


Sorry but I don't understand your question? What is on the face of the nut is penetrating oil that I have not wiped off. Otherwise, the nut looked new.
Frank.
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Old 04-26-21, 08:53 PM
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Static fittings friction is generally greater then dynamic friction. So a tighten torque value is usually less then the loosening amount.

Also penetrating fluids are really poor lubricating ones. So replacing the lube between the bolt and the LH threaded cap could have further increased the friction between them, this added to the "stiction" of the axle and arm fit can add up to be pretty high. Andy
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Old 04-26-21, 08:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Helderberg View Post
the nut looked new
It looks a bit chewed up now.
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Old 04-26-21, 11:52 PM
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The solution is leverage, not an impact driver.
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Old 04-27-21, 12:05 AM
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The solution is a lot more leverage, with something to securely support what you are trying to loosen and your tool. Impact drivers, while they have their uses, are brutish devices that dissipate your energy in all kinds of directions. Many eons ago, when I was a car mechanic back in the days when an air wrench was used almost solely to remove wheel nuts (yes, that long ago...), the company impact drivers rarely saw the light of day while our lever bars wouldn't have shamed a post-apocalyptic warrior's great grandson.

If your tool can take it, a scaffold tube is always an option
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Old 04-27-21, 02:01 AM
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Add a long tube to the end of the hex key to have more leverage. It should work.
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Old 04-27-21, 07:52 AM
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Thanks all. Will pick up an 8mm on 3/8" drive and lay into it.
Frank.
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Old 04-27-21, 08:34 AM
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I recommend taking off the self extracting ring and use a proper crank extractor tool in this case. If the crank is not coming off without a lot of force there is a good chance you'll ruin the SE ring and possibly strip some of the threads on the crank arm.
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Old 04-27-21, 08:45 AM
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Is the bolt stuck and won't loosen from the crank shaft, or is the bolt tightening against the self removal ring and then getting tight? On my RaceFace crank arm, there is a turn or two of the bolt before it tightens against the self removal ring. But it didn't take much torque to get the crank arm off.

You are turning the wrench counter clockwise as the arrow on the removal ring shows?

Sometimes trying to tighten a bolt will move it enough to break the stiction and it'll be easier to loosen. Just don't over torque it too much.
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Old 04-27-21, 10:14 AM
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This is a nice tool for the job.
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Old 04-27-21, 03:28 PM
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So leverage is my new favorite word. 8mm Allen and a 30" piece of 3/4" iron pipe done. Now to find out what the bottom bracket dimension is and I can order my new crank and BB.
Thank you all for the information. I blocked the crank arm and put my 190 lbs on the pipe and the rest is history. Fantastic.
Frank.

Last edited by Helderberg; 04-27-21 at 03:51 PM.
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Old 04-28-21, 05:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Helderberg View Post
So leverage is my new favorite word. 8mm Allen and a 30" piece of 3/4" iron pipe done. Now to find out what the bottom bracket dimension is and I can order my new crank and BB.
Thank you all for the information. I blocked the crank arm and put my 190 lbs on the pipe and the rest is history. Fantastic.
Frank.
This tends to happen with this type of cranks. I always use a pipe for more leverage when I disassemble my GXP cranks as they have the same "issue". The bolt seems well made though as I never managed to strip it. I think DUB cranks require even more torque, so I suppose they're even worse in this regard.
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