Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

Shimano Hub Body - Do I need to Change It?

Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

Shimano Hub Body - Do I need to Change It?

Old 05-05-21, 03:56 AM
  #1  
cjenrick
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2020
Posts: 263
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 94 Post(s)
Liked 77 Times in 58 Posts
Shimano Hub Body - Do I need to Change It?

picked up a rear wheel off evilbay for $129, 126 mm spacing.

shimano FH-6400 hub with Mavic GP-40, very low miles,

was worried about rim crackin after reading about anodized stuff, but folks seem to be split 50-50 as to this being an issue, a lot of people like the GP-40 rim.

after breaking an axle on an old suntour rear hub, i decided to put the new axle money into a upgraded wheel with a more dependable axle/bearing system with less leverage on the freewheel side of the axle. and we like the ease of choosing gear ratios also.

now i need to buy a cassette, but which one?



question is, should i change the freehub body to something different? i do not want to put a zillion gears on there, 6 or 7 is fine, or whatever was stock for a 126 mm hub. i have read some threads where people want more gears so they swap bodys, Uniglide to Hyperglide, or somethin like that, Is the Hyperglide body better? do the Hyperlide cogs shift that much better? Maybe there is a better selection of Hyperlide cassettes out there?

Which bodys are compatible with the FH-6400?

sorry for all the questions, i just fell off the hay wagon as far as this new hi-tech stuff is concerned,

Last edited by cjenrick; 05-05-21 at 04:07 AM.
cjenrick is offline  
Old 05-05-21, 07:15 AM
  #2  
Andrew R Stewart 
Senior Member
 
Andrew R Stewart's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 14,918

Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Raleigh Pro, Trek Cycle Cross, Mongoose tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2924 Post(s)
Liked 1,191 Times in 840 Posts
That freehub body is a now obsolete, IIRC it's been the mid 1980s since it was current. The big issue going forward will be cog/cassette availability. The current cassettes have a longer body requirement, one set of splines is of a different width and the small cog isn't threaded (the cogs are held on w/ a lockring). I'll bet the seller was VERY pleased with the sale, at that cost

I don't recall about the FH body compatibility with current ones, which will be needed to be done if a cassette of any future availability is hoped for. If no one else chimes in you need to pull the FH body off the shell and see what interface it uses. Shimano did change the interface around the time this hub was current so it might fit current ones. The axle will likely need replacement as the luck nut to lock nut dimension will grow. There's a good chance that the drive side cone and spacers will also change what with the different FH body. The QR skewer will also need to be longer. All told and if able to be done expect $50 to 100 more investment (dependent on how parts are found), now the wheel becomes far less a deal...

This FH body swap is not well documented and is usually a trial and change to try another (cone/ FH body) type of job. Fine if a shop with a lot of parts are at hand. Not so quick if done at home or via the internet.

As far as the rim goes. The MA-40 can give thousands of trouble free miles. Are the spokes butted (I doubt it), these help reduce the peak tension loads that help lead to nipple hole cracks. How tightly are the spokes tensioned (and remember this will change with the redishing after the FH body change out)? How big are you? How "heavy" (spin smoothly or pound squares) a rider are you? Andy (who has tens of thousands of miles on MA-40s and MA-2s over the decades)
__________________
AndrewRStewart
Andrew R Stewart is offline  
Old 05-05-21, 10:07 AM
  #3  
70sSanO
Senior Member
 
70sSanO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Mission Viejo
Posts: 3,348

Bikes: 1986 Cannondale SR400 (Flat bar commuter), 1988 Cannondale Criterium XTR, 1992 Serotta T-Max, 1995 Trek 970

Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 931 Post(s)
Liked 731 Times in 496 Posts
Here is hopefully a more of a Reader's Digest response than War and Peace...

Everything depends on the dropout width of your bike. Is it 126mm or 130mm?

The Shimano 600 6400 freehub is Uniglide only. There are no internal threads for a lockring; note the location of the dust cover. While it is not as much of a problem finding the threaded 1st position cog, modifying a hyperglide cassette, per Sheldon Brown https://www.sheldonbrown.com/k7.html would be a non-starter for me.

You can swap out the freehub body with an older UG/HG 7 or 8 speed or a HG only. It would be best to find a FH body for a 6401 (7 speed-126mm) or 6402 (8 speed-130mm) because I think the same cones are used, but I would have to check. I am pretty sure it is a shallow flange, which as Andy has pointed out, does not match with any current freehub body. There are other possible substitutes from the 90's. NOTE: There are shallow and deep freehub body flanges, I "think" the 6400 is shallow, but I'd need to see it.

John

Last edited by 70sSanO; 05-05-21 at 10:26 AM.
70sSanO is offline  
Likes For 70sSanO:
Old 05-05-21, 11:45 AM
  #4  
cjenrick
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2020
Posts: 263
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 94 Post(s)
Liked 77 Times in 58 Posts
thanks for the help! yes i know that hub is obsolete. the whole bike (SR Maxima) is obsolete.

first post says i only want 7 speeds.


the bike has 126 mm spacing. i weigh about 155. there is a ton of Shimano stuff on evilbay, i might have to wait a while but i am sure a Uniglide cassette will show up, in the meantime i have a wheels for the bike.

i will research the freehub options, one site says 6400 can not swap bodies, but 6401 and 6402 can.
cjenrick is offline  
Old 05-05-21, 12:02 PM
  #5  
Iride01
Hits [ENTER] b4 thinking
 
Iride01's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 7,058

Bikes: '20 Tarmac Disc Comp '91 Schwinn Paramount '78 Raleigh Competition GS

Mentioned: 31 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2747 Post(s)
Liked 1,380 Times in 1,008 Posts
How much will you be bothered if it tears up during a ride? Even when I ride 60 mile rides I'm never more than 15 or 20 minutes for my wife or other to come pick me up and take me home.

However, if you have the chance to change it now. You know how to change it. And it won't make that already expensive to me, used wheel way over priced. Then change it.
Iride01 is online now  
Old 05-05-21, 12:16 PM
  #6  
icemilkcoffee
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 627
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 361 Post(s)
Liked 264 Times in 166 Posts
Originally Posted by cjenrick View Post
thanks for the help! yes i know that hub is obsolete. the whole bike (SR Maxima) is obsolete.

first post says i only want 7 speeds.


the bike has 126 mm spacing. i weigh about 155. there is a ton of Shimano stuff on evilbay, i might have to wait a while but i am sure a Uniglide cassette will show up, in the meantime i have a wheels for the bike.

i will research the freehub options, one site says 6400 can not swap bodies, but 6401 and 6402 can.
6400 uses the same allen bolt to secure the freehub body as the 6401:
https://si.shimano.com/api/publish/s...6400-0838B.pdf
https://si.shimano.com/api/publish/s...-6401-1075.pdf

So you should be able to replace that UG freehub body with a UG/HG 7 speed freehub body.
icemilkcoffee is online now  
Likes For icemilkcoffee:
Old 05-05-21, 01:19 PM
  #7  
Bill Kapaun
Really Old Senior Member
 
Bill Kapaun's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Mid Willamette Valley, Orygun
Posts: 12,655

Bikes: 87 RockHopper,2008 Specialized Globe. Both upgraded to 9 speeds.

Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1336 Post(s)
Liked 553 Times in 418 Posts
You need an early HG body.
Keep the DS cone, seals etc. WITH the corresponding FH body.
Later ones may use a different spline pattern on the hub as the attached shows.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf
FH-RM30-7S.PDF (410.5 KB, 4 views)
Bill Kapaun is offline  
Old 05-05-21, 01:23 PM
  #8  
70sSanO
Senior Member
 
70sSanO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Mission Viejo
Posts: 3,348

Bikes: 1986 Cannondale SR400 (Flat bar commuter), 1988 Cannondale Criterium XTR, 1992 Serotta T-Max, 1995 Trek 970

Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 931 Post(s)
Liked 731 Times in 496 Posts
Just so you know what the shallow-deep flange freehub bodies means, (at least that is what I call them), below is a pic of 7, 8 and 9 speed bodies.

The shallow flange upper left is a UG/HG 7 speed freehub body that was on a DX-650 (also fits a 105-1055) hub. I replaced it with the lower left which is a 6402 8 speed UG/HG body. NOTE: My OLD was 135mm so there were no dropout issues.

The deep flange upper right is a 7 speed UG/HG body and the lower right is a 9 speed HG only body.



John

Last edited by 70sSanO; 05-05-21 at 01:27 PM.
70sSanO is offline  
Likes For 70sSanO:
Old 05-05-21, 01:23 PM
  #9  
rccardr 
aka: Dr. Cannondale
 
rccardr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 6,422

Bikes: Lots. Just...lots.

Mentioned: 177 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1504 Post(s)
Liked 832 Times in 406 Posts
So you should be able to replace that UG freehub body with a UG/HG 7 speed freehub body.
Correct. Or IME any Shimano 5500/5600/6500/6510/6600 freehub body. Others...not so sure, but I've swapped those for certain; perhaps I was just lucky or perhaps that is a universal truth.

However, as you stated you only want/need 7 gears. I have a stack of new and nearly new UG gears and spacers:
13-14-15 first cogs (threaded), plus14-16-17-19-20-21-23-24 and multiples of some of those.
Would not be hard to put together a 13-24 UG cassette (like a 13-14-16-19-21-24) that would last you, oh, maybe 10,000 miles.

Alternatively, buy a first cog and a new 7 speed HG cassette and file down the slots on the second through seventh cogs to fit. It's really quite easy.
__________________
Hard at work in the Secret Underground Laboratory...

Last edited by rccardr; 05-05-21 at 01:27 PM.
rccardr is offline  
Likes For rccardr:
Old 05-05-21, 01:42 PM
  #10  
70sSanO
Senior Member
 
70sSanO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Mission Viejo
Posts: 3,348

Bikes: 1986 Cannondale SR400 (Flat bar commuter), 1988 Cannondale Criterium XTR, 1992 Serotta T-Max, 1995 Trek 970

Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 931 Post(s)
Liked 731 Times in 496 Posts
Originally Posted by rccardr View Post
Correct. Or IME any Shimano 5500/5600/6500/6510/6600 freehub body. Others...not so sure, but I've swapped those for certain; perhaps I was just lucky or perhaps that is a universal truth.
The only issue I have found, especially with a 126mm OLD, is using a deep flange body on a shallow flange hub will push the freehub body further out. The depth of the shoulder cut into the hub on a shallow hub is 2mm and the deep is 4mm. Those extra 2mm get pushed out towards the DS.

While it will attach, I found it not to be acceptable. Most later hubs are deep flange and those are easy to swap out, which I have done. The one caveat is the seal diameter and dust cover ID; which Shimano decided to change.

John
70sSanO is offline  
Likes For 70sSanO:
Old 05-05-21, 11:09 PM
  #11  
cjenrick
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2020
Posts: 263
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 94 Post(s)
Liked 77 Times in 58 Posts
lots of good info and pics, thanks a lot!

probably gonna go for a straight block 14-20

or it looks like 6 speeds will work also with the right spacers, 14-19

here are a few more links on the subject>

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/k7.html

10-speeds on a 126mm hub SUCCESS

Best rear hub options for a 126mm spaced frame?
cjenrick is offline  
Old 05-06-21, 08:34 AM
  #12  
genejockey 
Klaatu..Verata..Necktie?
 
genejockey's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 5,227

Bikes: Canyon Endurace, 105; Battaglin MAX, Chorus; Bianchi 928 Veloce; Ritchey Road Logic, Dura Ace; Cannondale R500 RX100; Schwinn Circuit, Sante; Lotus Supreme, Dura Ace

Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2501 Post(s)
Liked 2,449 Times in 1,256 Posts
I can't help you on sourcing the HG freehub body. I can tell you that I have 2 bikes with Uniglide freehubs, one 6 and one 7 speed. My approach to wear and replacement is to have a lot of bikes, so that the components on any given bike don't get full time use. That way it may be that I wear out before they do.
__________________
"Don't take life so serious-it ain't nohow permanent."
genejockey is offline  
Old 05-06-21, 10:33 PM
  #13  
cjenrick
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2020
Posts: 263
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 94 Post(s)
Liked 77 Times in 58 Posts
ok so reasons for changing from a uniglide to hyperglide body on a 126mm hub might be:

1) the freehub assy is better (?)

2) the hyperglide cogs are better (?)

3) hyperlide cassettes are more plentiful and therefore easier to source and possibly less expensive

4) you can cram more gears onto a 126 mm frame with a hyperglide system. (?)

i found some info on 2) from bike pros>

'SHIMANO UNIGLIDE/HYPERGLIDE

Shimano's most recent release of rear cassettes, employs what they call "HyperGlide" compatibility. HyperGlide is a term that Shimano uses on their rear drive train parts to identify them as having common characteristics. The HyperGlide description is therefore applied to chains, cassettes, hubsets, shifters, and derailleurs, both front and rear. HyperGlide is the most recent, of various incarnations in hub/rear-drive changes Shimano has made since 1982, when it was then called "Uni-Glide". Uni-Glide survived, with changes until 1989 when Shimano superseded it with "HyperGlide".

The Uni-Glide system was made in both freewheel and hub cassette models, and what distinguished it from others at the time is the shape and height of the teeth. The teeth on the Uni-Glide rear cog have the top half tapered to a narrow point. The teeth are also twisted, so that the rear of the tooth is inner-most and is twisted to the right as it moves forward. Depending on the number of teeth on the sprocket, every fourth to seventh UniGlide tooth is also cut down to half the height of the surrounding teeth. All these tooth characteristics made UniGlide the fastest, surest shifting system at the time. The twisted teeth pulled the chain, in the direction required for a faster shift to lower gears, the cut down teeth provided a "portal" for the chain to move swiftly through while seeking to engage, and the narrow teeth permitted the chain to settle faster on the teeth for final engagement.

UniGlide represented a definite improvement over what had traditionally been available. HyperGlide has improvements in the physical characteristics of UniGlide, and Uniglide cassette cogs can be used on Hyperglide hubs, but not the reverse. HyperGlide cogs have twisted teeth to pull the chain properly to the next lower gear. Rather than having teeth just cut down in height, the HyperGlide cog uses several teeth operating in concert together to facilitate the shift. This pattern of teeth occurs once on cogs up to 16 teeth in size, where it begins to repeat twice. At the 21 tooth sized cog it repeats thrice, and at the 28 tooth cog it repeats four times.The first of the HyperGlide teeth are twisted, with a continually stronger twist, which pulls the chain further and further into the lower gear. The next tooth has no twist, but is cut with a dorsal fin shape which helps release the chain in a shift to a higher gear. This dorsal tooth is thinner and stands more toward the outer side of the bike. This "shift gate" design is, in many ways, similar to other index shifting systems. The purpose of this tooth design is to permit accurate shifts without having to let up on the pedal pressure. The Uniglide system used cogs that were 1.8mm thick with 3.7mm spacing between them.

HyperGlide uses cogs that are 1.8mm thick with 3.0mm spacing between them. In the case of Shimano cassettes, all Uniglide cogs can be used on HyperGlide hubs successfully, HyperGlide hubs accommodate the interior notch pattern of the UG cogs. HG cogs have one notch that is wider than the UG hub will accept, and therefore can't be used on older UG systems. This wider notch forces all the cogs to line up specifically, leaving start and stop shift position teeth in an optimum array, for swift shifting. UG and HG hubs are distinguishable at sight. UniGlide hubs have the freehub body exterior threaded on the outer end. HyperGlide hubs have the freehub body exterior threaded on the outer end, and also have the interior of the outer end threaded, for the HG lockring."

Last edited by cjenrick; 05-06-21 at 10:38 PM.
cjenrick is offline  
Old 05-06-21, 10:54 PM
  #14  
icemilkcoffee
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 627
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 361 Post(s)
Liked 264 Times in 166 Posts
Originally Posted by cjenrick View Post
ok so reasons for changing from a uniglide to hyperglide body on a 126mm hub might be:

1) the freehub assy is better (?)
not really

Originally Posted by cjenrick View Post
2) the hyperglide cogs are better (?)
Yes

Originally Posted by cjenrick View Post
3) hyperlide cassettes are more plentiful and therefore easier to source and possibly less expensive
YES

Originally Posted by cjenrick View Post
4) you can cram more gears onto a 126 mm frame with a hyperglide system. (?)
YES
icemilkcoffee is online now  
Old 05-06-21, 11:52 PM
  #15  
70sSanO
Senior Member
 
70sSanO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Mission Viejo
Posts: 3,348

Bikes: 1986 Cannondale SR400 (Flat bar commuter), 1988 Cannondale Criterium XTR, 1992 Serotta T-Max, 1995 Trek 970

Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 931 Post(s)
Liked 731 Times in 496 Posts
Technically you can run more cogs if you run closer spacing. It is basically running 7 speed, or 8 of 9 (cogs spaced at 9), and supposedly 9 of 10, but I haven’t calculated it out.

Originally on my mtb’s I ran 7 speeds spaced at 8 because I feel older 8 speed trigger shifters are better than 7. There is an added bonus of slightly less cassette width that probably gives a very very slight chain improvement at the ends.

I have one older bike that I am adding 8 speed STi shifters and will run an 11-28 8 speed cassette without the 11t that will result in a 13-28 7 speed. It is spaced at 126mm.

John
70sSanO is offline  
Old 05-09-21, 11:54 AM
  #16  
cjenrick
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2020
Posts: 263
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 94 Post(s)
Liked 77 Times in 58 Posts
What other spacings besides 126 mm did the Uniglide freehubs come in?

the wheel will be here today (when did Fed Ex start Sunday deliveries?) but we have no cassette,

do not want to buy wrong size cassette,

going to run the Uniglide system for a while before considering Hyperglid upgrade,

shifting can not be worse that straight tooth freewheel cogs, right?

thanks for all the help!
cjenrick is offline  
Old 05-10-21, 12:49 PM
  #17  
icemilkcoffee
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 627
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 361 Post(s)
Liked 264 Times in 166 Posts
I believe the 6 or 7 speed UG cassettes would work for you, but not Dura Ace because those use a smaller diameter screw-on small cog.

NOS UG cassettes are very expensive. If I were you I would just do the HG freehub swap and forget about UG cassettes.
icemilkcoffee is online now  
Old 05-10-21, 07:43 PM
  #18  
rccardr 
aka: Dr. Cannondale
 
rccardr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 6,422

Bikes: Lots. Just...lots.

Mentioned: 177 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1504 Post(s)
Liked 832 Times in 406 Posts
Thanks to the depth of my NOS parts bins and some discussion, I believe we were able to resolve these issues with a minimum of fiduciary output and a maximum of six and seven speed flexibility.
__________________
Hard at work in the Secret Underground Laboratory...
rccardr is offline  
Likes For rccardr:
Old 05-10-21, 08:56 PM
  #19  
70sSanO
Senior Member
 
70sSanO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Mission Viejo
Posts: 3,348

Bikes: 1986 Cannondale SR400 (Flat bar commuter), 1988 Cannondale Criterium XTR, 1992 Serotta T-Max, 1995 Trek 970

Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 931 Post(s)
Liked 731 Times in 496 Posts
Originally Posted by rccardr View Post
Thanks to the depth of my NOS parts bins and some discussion, I believe we were able to resolve these issues with a minimum of fiduciary output and a maximum of six and seven speed flexibility.
Kudos to you to help resolve this.

John

Edit added: For the OP, my only suggestion is to do a re-grease and adjust on the hubs. Might want to also remove the freehub body and drip some Phil’s oil from the back.

Last edited by 70sSanO; 05-10-21 at 08:59 PM.
70sSanO is offline  
Old 05-15-21, 12:18 AM
  #20  
cjenrick
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2020
Posts: 263
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 94 Post(s)
Liked 77 Times in 58 Posts
got the cos and spacers yesterday, installed and went for a ride today!

took suggestion above and rebuilt hub,

i had seen pics of this system before and thought that the splines on the Al hub were the pawls, where was i when the brains were being passed out? those "pawls' would not last long now would they?

cjenrick is offline  
Old 05-15-21, 12:35 AM
  #21  
cjenrick
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2020
Posts: 263
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 94 Post(s)
Liked 77 Times in 58 Posts
this hub looks pretty fresh so we are happy with the evilbay deal.

that 10mm Allen wrench was a bit sloppy as far as fit, but it still worked, i believe there is a special tool for removing the body.

so what is so good about this Uniglide freehub system over the freewheel? you still need two chain whips to change gears so convenience is no better than the freewheel. plus, you have to pull the axle to remove the body, not so with the freewheel. and what do you do with the body as far as service? don't ask me how to take it apart to clean, change bearings or add oil, but i do know how to open up a freewheel, so far the freewheel wins as far as service.

ahh, now i remember, with the freehub system we have those right side bearings where they should be. no more broken axles. we hope.

i might be hallucinating but i thought the bike rode a little stiffer with this hub, i wonder if the axle flex of a freewheel system softens the ride, probably not, but something to ponder. i also thought that the drive train seemed a tad bit more responsive when you get on the gas but that was probably hallucination #2.

we put a dab of Shimano grease where the body meets the splines>



Last edited by cjenrick; 05-15-21 at 12:40 AM.
cjenrick is offline  
Old 05-15-21, 12:45 AM
  #22  
cjenrick
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2020
Posts: 263
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 94 Post(s)
Liked 77 Times in 58 Posts
took out the mag glass to look at the stock bearings which date back a few years, you could actually see very small dark lines that kind of looked like a spider web across all the bearings. so we stuck in some new M25 bearings,

note:

8 bearings on left side,
10 bearings on right side

thought we dropped a bearing somewhere but no.
cjenrick is offline  
Old 05-15-21, 12:54 AM
  #23  
cjenrick
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2020
Posts: 263
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 94 Post(s)
Liked 77 Times in 58 Posts
hub serviced, Mobil 1 on the axle bearings, no oil on the body, it seemed to be pretty well packed with oil already.

Campy dishing tool. Other Campy tools were accidently left in apartment cupboard after we got evicted after job loss. went back to manager to et my tools and he said "we sold them." BS. he probably threw them into the dumpster. still kicking myself.

the wheel was dished perfect, but needed some truing. forgot that you do not need to turn the spoke wrench as much with 32 holes.




Last edited by cjenrick; 05-15-21 at 01:01 AM.
cjenrick is offline  
Old 05-15-21, 12:59 AM
  #24  
cjenrick
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2020
Posts: 263
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 94 Post(s)
Liked 77 Times in 58 Posts
now what?

well, we don't wanna ride on the rim,


Last edited by cjenrick; 05-15-21 at 01:08 AM.
cjenrick is offline  
Old 05-15-21, 01:16 AM
  #25  
cjenrick
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2020
Posts: 263
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 94 Post(s)
Liked 77 Times in 58 Posts
going with 14-15-16-17-19-21

can not turn over a 13 anymore. even with the 50T big ring.
sad, but we must accept certain things.

but it is a nice day and we are on the road again!

a little grinding, as expected with new gears and a chain with 5000 on it.

we will get a new chain tomorrow.
cjenrick is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information -

Copyright 2021 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.