DI2 R8050 GS trouble shifting up
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DI2 R8050 GS trouble shifting up
Hi all,
This is driving me crazy. I installed Shimano DI2 myself about 1000km ago, and everything worked fine. Then after about 5-600km I start having problems shifting up. I have gone through setting it back up multiple times. It is absolutely perfect, yet still doesn't shift properly.
Essentially, in about 20% of shifts up, the rear derailleur moves up and right back down. After multiple tries it might work. Shifting down is always good.
To make it absolutely crystal clear what I'm talking about, thanks for checking out this clip:
Note that I updated firmware before install. I am wondering if there's something wrong with the unit. Has anyone experienced this before. Online I could only find reports of people not shifting into the biggest cog due to incorrect limits. But that's not the case here. My only other thought is the derailleur hanger, but I don't have a tool to check that. The bike, however, has never been dropped, so that should not be a factor.
Any help greatly appreciated.
This is driving me crazy. I installed Shimano DI2 myself about 1000km ago, and everything worked fine. Then after about 5-600km I start having problems shifting up. I have gone through setting it back up multiple times. It is absolutely perfect, yet still doesn't shift properly.
Essentially, in about 20% of shifts up, the rear derailleur moves up and right back down. After multiple tries it might work. Shifting down is always good.
To make it absolutely crystal clear what I'm talking about, thanks for checking out this clip:
Note that I updated firmware before install. I am wondering if there's something wrong with the unit. Has anyone experienced this before. Online I could only find reports of people not shifting into the biggest cog due to incorrect limits. But that's not the case here. My only other thought is the derailleur hanger, but I don't have a tool to check that. The bike, however, has never been dropped, so that should not be a factor.
Any help greatly appreciated.
#2
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It might just be the camera angle, but your RD looks low in relation to your RD hanger. Maybe the B-link on your RD is mounted on the RD hanger in the wrong position. Something to check...
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Charge
Silly question..... sorry but I have to ask.
Is the battery charged and showing a "Solid Green Light" on the junction box then tested?
Barry
OH and while you're at it, have you run a crash reset on the RD?
Thought of another silly question.... what is the width of the chain, are you running a chain too wide causing the RD to think it's a failed shift.
My Shimano 11sp HG701 is 5.65mm across the rivits.
Is the battery charged and showing a "Solid Green Light" on the junction box then tested?
Barry
OH and while you're at it, have you run a crash reset on the RD?
Thought of another silly question.... what is the width of the chain, are you running a chain too wide causing the RD to think it's a failed shift.
My Shimano 11sp HG701 is 5.65mm across the rivits.
Last edited by Barry2; 05-10-21 at 09:26 AM.
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I would go into the setup and move the DR alignment over a position or two and see what that does. Pretty much the same thing I'd do if this was cable pulled DR. Only I'd be turning the barrel adjuster instead.
Worked good for a 1000 km. So why now? Don't know, 1000 km isn't much IMO, but you'd think it'd be enough. What else have you done to the bike? It's really clean.
Cassette lock ring loose? Changed cassettes which might need new alignment.
Worked good for a 1000 km. So why now? Don't know, 1000 km isn't much IMO, but you'd think it'd be enough. What else have you done to the bike? It's really clean.
Cassette lock ring loose? Changed cassettes which might need new alignment.
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Silly question..... sorry but I have to ask.
Is the battery charged and showing a "Solid Green Light" on the junction box then tested?
Barry
OH and while you're at it, have you run a crash reset on the RD?
Thought of another silly question.... what is the width of the chain, are you running a chain too wide causing the RD to think it's a failed shift.
My Shimano 11sp HG701 is 5.65mm across the rivits.
Is the battery charged and showing a "Solid Green Light" on the junction box then tested?
Barry
OH and while you're at it, have you run a crash reset on the RD?
Thought of another silly question.... what is the width of the chain, are you running a chain too wide causing the RD to think it's a failed shift.
My Shimano 11sp HG701 is 5.65mm across the rivits.
The chain you see on film is a CN-HG701 and the casette is a 105 11sp. The rest of the bike is all ultegra.
In fact, I swapped the cassette and chain a couple weeks ago (hence the shine) as they were aging and I figured maybe that'll help. I re-adjusted the whole system afterwards of course. But the issue still there.
With regards to the RD being too low Kabuto , wouldn't the space between the top jockey wheel and the cassette also be too big then? I have the b screw adjusted s that there's a 2-3 mm when in the biggest cog.
Iride01 yes, indeed my first thought too. I've been through micro adjust fiddling to no ends unfortunately.
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Set the B-screw adjustment between 5-6mm. 2-3mm sounds awful close, and 8mm is probably too much. It doesn’t have to be “exactly” this, but get it close, key is to make sure that the top of the pulley cage doesn’t foul the big cog as you shift down. Once that’s confirmed good, forget this adjustment, it won’t move...and it is not your issue anyhow, because if it were, you’d struggle to shift down the cassette from the large cogs to the smaller cogs.
Also, your RD is shifting, so it is not in “crash mode.” Don’t ask me how I know...
I’m guessing you actually have an issue that may require replacement of the rear mech, potentially a damaged linkage, solenoid, or even motor. The fact that it is intermittent, and that you can “index” the chain to each gear, makes it quite likely that the hanger isn’t out of whack (though, it could still be possible).
Also, your RD is shifting, so it is not in “crash mode.” Don’t ask me how I know...
I’m guessing you actually have an issue that may require replacement of the rear mech, potentially a damaged linkage, solenoid, or even motor. The fact that it is intermittent, and that you can “index” the chain to each gear, makes it quite likely that the hanger isn’t out of whack (though, it could still be possible).
#9
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With regards to the RD being too low Kabuto , wouldn't the space between the top jockey wheel and the cassette also be too big then? I have the b screw adjusted s that there's a 2-3 mm when in the biggest cog.
https://weightweenies.starbike.com/f...49460&start=45
Last edited by Kabuto; 05-10-21 at 08:38 PM.
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8mm gap works fine on mine.
So.... either
Turn in the "B" screw til the thread strips than back it off 1/2 turn.
OR
Start at 8mm and reduce the gap til it coughs again
It's a cheap test.
Barry
So.... either
Turn in the "B" screw til the thread strips than back it off 1/2 turn.
OR
Start at 8mm and reduce the gap til it coughs again
It's a cheap test.
Barry
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I said "probably too much." A larger gap is certainly better than not enough, for the reason I stated above.
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Set the B-screw adjustment between 5-6mm. 2-3mm sounds awful close, and 8mm is probably too much. It doesn’t have to be “exactly” this, but get it close, key is to make sure that the top of the pulley cage doesn’t foul the big cog as you shift down. Once that’s confirmed good, forget this adjustment, it won’t move...and it is not your issue anyhow, because if it were, you’d struggle to shift down the cassette from the large cogs to the smaller cogs.
Also, your RD is shifting, so it is not in “crash mode.” Don’t ask me how I know...
I’m guessing you actually have an issue that may require replacement of the rear mech, potentially a damaged linkage, solenoid, or even motor. The fact that it is intermittent, and that you can “index” the chain to each gear, makes it quite likely that the hanger isn’t out of whack (though, it could still be possible).
Also, your RD is shifting, so it is not in “crash mode.” Don’t ask me how I know...
I’m guessing you actually have an issue that may require replacement of the rear mech, potentially a damaged linkage, solenoid, or even motor. The fact that it is intermittent, and that you can “index” the chain to each gear, makes it quite likely that the hanger isn’t out of whack (though, it could still be possible).
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I'm also leaning towards a faulty RD. I had already played around with b-screw adjustment, but tried again just now to no avail. And the link is definitely installed correctly. The last thing to check is hanger allignment. Guess that means a trip to an LBS. Haven't taken a bike to one in over 8 years...
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Though not specified, I think the part I bolded in the OP's last response is probably your best bet.
Usually people coming and saying they have the same issue really isn't the same issue. I suggest you go start your own thread and tell us your problem with your Di2 in your own words.
I'm also leaning towards a faulty RD. I had already played around with b-screw adjustment, but tried again just now to no avail. And the link is definitely installed correctly. The last thing to check is hanger allignment. Guess that means a trip to an LBS.Haven't taken a bike to one in over 8 years...