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11 speed 11-50t compatibility.

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11 speed 11-50t compatibility.

Old 05-18-21, 12:56 AM
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John_E
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11 speed 11-50t compatibility.

I have an xtr di2 setup that I really like. I have an 11-42T cassette on it which can be limiting at very steep terrain. I also don't want to change the chainring so I was wondering if it is possible to make something like sunrace 11 speed 11-50T to work nicely with my setup.

I can also go 11-46 but I think it wouldn't be much better than 11-42t.

Any thoughts, suggestions welcome.
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Old 05-18-21, 09:17 AM
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cxwrench
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Medium or long cage? Not that it matters, Shimano spec both derailleurs for a 46t max cog. The long cage actually wraps enough chain so you might be able to use a Wolftooth link, but the shifting in the smaller cogs will probably suffer.
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Old 05-18-21, 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by cxwrench View Post
Medium or long cage? Not that it matters, Shimano spec both derailleurs for a 46t max cog. The long cage actually wraps enough chain so you might be able to use a Wolftooth link, but the shifting in the smaller cogs will probably suffer.
Thanks, it is a medium cage but the chainring is pretty large, 52T, so I am hoping that even with the added links it will still be fine on the smaller cogs.
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Old 05-18-21, 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by John_E View Post
Thanks, it is a medium cage but the chainring is pretty large, 52T, so I am hoping that even with the added links it will still be fine on the smaller cogs.
that seems pretty big for a modern set up (BITD of 42/52 or 39/53 the rear was often 13-26/28), I know you stated that you don't want to change it out but the may be the simplest. Do you really use 52/11 and go close to 30mph at 80 rpm (which is what it works out to)?
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Old 05-18-21, 12:33 PM
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52 is HUGE for a 1X. Change the chainring to something smaller and learn how to pedal.
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Old 05-18-21, 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by squirtdad View Post
that seems pretty big for a modern set up (BITD of 42/52 or 39/53 the rear was often 13-26/28), I know you stated that you don't want to change it out but the may be the simplest. Do you really use 52/11 and go close to 30mph at 80 rpm (which is what it works out to)?
Thanks, I agree that decreasing front chainring would be simple but I have reasons to keep that large chainring. The best scenario is actually to convert a 2x system, having both the range and a straight chainline but for now that is not an option.

Originally Posted by cxwrench View Post
52 is HUGE for a 1X. Change the chainring to something smaller and learn how to pedal.
Come on man, spare me these kind of comments.
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Old 05-18-21, 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by John_E View Post
Thanks, it is a medium cage but the chainring is pretty large, 52T, so I am hoping that even with the added links it will still be fine on the smaller cogs.
What difference does the size of the chainring make?
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Old 05-18-21, 10:24 PM
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Originally Posted by cxwrench View Post
What difference does the size of the chainring make?
Imo larger distance between jockey wheel and the bottom of the chainring hence less slack to deal with when the chain is enlarged for 50T cog.

The official capacity is 35T I am hoping for 39T.
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Old 05-19-21, 05:40 AM
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Originally Posted by John_E View Post
Imo larger distance between jockey wheel and the bottom of the chainring hence less slack to deal with when the chain is enlarged for 50T cog.

The official capacity is 35T I am hoping for 39T.
I Don't think reducing the size of the chainring would significantly change the distance between the Rd jockey and the bottom of the chainring If you shorten the chain by half the number of change in teeth.
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Old 05-19-21, 02:31 PM
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Originally Posted by John_E View Post
Imo larger distance between jockey wheel and the bottom of the chainring hence less slack to deal with when the chain is enlarged for 50T cog.

The official capacity is 35T I am hoping for 39T.
not sure it works that way the slack is the slack.

I have pushed shimano 2 teeth past limit (older 7400 with friction) with no problem, 4 seems to be a big push.

What I have no insight to is how di2 will handle this? That could really be the kicker.

I don't understand the need for 52 up front, even wolf link suggests much smaller

https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/...x-gravel-setup

quoted
  • We found that 40T front chainrings work great for the rolling hills in Minnesota
    • 42T or 44T if you need more top end speed
    • 36T or 38T if you want a smaller climbing gear
  • Most people over gear and select too big of a chainring. At a cadence of 100, your top pedaling speeds are as follows
    • 44 x 11 = 33 mph or 53 kph
    • 42 x 11 = 32 mph or 50 kph
    • 40 x 11 = 30 mph or 48 kph
    • 38 x 11 = 29 mph or 46 kph
    • Top speed numbers are from our gear charts and the 650b x 2.2 tire numbers are quoted above as that is roughly equivalent to a CX size tire. Bigger tires would be about 1mph/1.5kph faster
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Old 05-19-21, 03:23 PM
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As squirtdad posted the size of the ring doesn't matter...the slack is the same no matter.
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Old 05-20-21, 01:58 AM
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Originally Posted by tomtomtom123 View Post
I Don't think reducing the size of the chainring would significantly change the distance between the Rd jockey and the bottom of the chainring If you shorten the chain by half the number of change in teeth.
I can't say if the change will be significant but distance increases while number of excess links stay the same, so the way I see it it should make it a bit easier. But I may be wrong.

That being said there are times that I actually use my current combination, especially downhill. Ideally a second chainring of size around 30T would have solved my problem but I don't want to deal with changing my crankset yet/ adding a front derailleur if possible.
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