freewheel lockring loosening
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freewheel lockring loosening
hi, i got a shimano mf tz500 and i have a problem with the lockring or how tf is this thing called (i actually cant put a photo bcs i dont have 10 posts but its that thing with 2 holes and need a pin spanner to remove it or a hammer
and u rotate clockwise to loose it and under it there are bearings). My problem is that it is loosening after 5-10 minutes of pedaling harder and the freewheel has play which cant be solved because i tried to tight the lockring at maximum and it still has play, and the play is annoying bcs i can hear a knock when im on the third sprocket or lower. Today I tried to remove 1 ball and see if its still loosening but i still have that play, i tried to remove or put some spacers from some old freewheel and i still have the same play, i also tried with another lockring. How can I fix the both problems???? The bike is 1 month old...
sorry for my bad english

sorry for my bad english
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1 month old bike? Did you buy it locally at a LBS? They'll probably tighten it for free if no other parts were damaged or nothing else is required.
I just got my bike back from the bike shop for a late 1 year checkup which turned out to be 18 months later and they didn't charge me anything. In fact I also came back with a very slightly used Ultegra 11-32 cassette to use on a trip I'm planning. It was free too
But you can get us a pic. Just write the URL to the shared link to the pic in the plain text of your message. Then remove the https:// and put a space on both sides of any . (dot), or just replace the . with ( dot ).
I just got my bike back from the bike shop for a late 1 year checkup which turned out to be 18 months later and they didn't charge me anything. In fact I also came back with a very slightly used Ultegra 11-32 cassette to use on a trip I'm planning. It was free too
But you can get us a pic. Just write the URL to the shared link to the pic in the plain text of your message. Then remove the https:// and put a space on both sides of any . (dot), or just replace the . with ( dot ).
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If it's really a freewheel lockring (and not something else), then you need to use a hammer and punch. If you're using a hammer and punch and it's still loosening, then you might try some blue Loctite on the threads.
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I think your ball bearings fell out. It will still rotate but you won't be able to tighten it and get the play out of it. If that's the case and you keep riding it, you will wear it out very quickly. Like someone mentioned earlier, if you bought from a local bike shop, take it back and have them fix it. That should not have happened. Good luck
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I think your ball bearings fell out. It will still rotate but you won't be able to tighten it and get the play out of it. If that's the case and you keep riding it, you will wear it out very quickly. Like someone mentioned earlier, if you bought from a local bike shop, take it back and have them fix it. That should not have happened. Good luck
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If there's a bike co-op near you, they'll have a bin full of good salvaged freewheels at very low cost. And they'll help you replace it, or even help you repair yours if you really want to pursue that.
I've never opened one of these up, and I'm an inveterate tinkerer. If a new one broke, I'd replace it and pursue a warranty.
I've never opened one of these up, and I'm an inveterate tinkerer. If a new one broke, I'd replace it and pursue a warranty.
#8
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TZ500 is a freewheel which means it does not have a lockring like a cassette. The freewheel is threaded into the freehub. When you pedal, the freewheel is supposed to be tighter and tighter, not the other way round. Are you able to check if the freewheel is installed correctly? No misalignment etc?
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@Hawk2021's Album:
https://www.bikeforums.net/g/user/528736
https://www.bikeforums.net/g/album/21949844

OP's freewheel, I think:
https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/produ...F-TZ500-7.html
https://www.bikeforums.net/g/user/528736
https://www.bikeforums.net/g/album/21949844

OP's freewheel, I think:
https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/produ...F-TZ500-7.html

Last edited by CliffordK; 07-19-21 at 03:18 AM.
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It looks like somebody has been beating on that lock ring with a hammer and punch. I doubt it just fell out.
Nonetheless, a new freewheel similar to your old one is dirt cheap.
To get your freewheel off, what you really need is a freewheel removal tool. You should be able to pick one up at your neighborhood bike store, or order. There are quite a number of different brands, parts.
Park FR-1, FR-1.2, FR-1.3 will work (the newer ones just got longer for some of the 11T freewheels, but will still work).

But, also several other brands and models.
Nonetheless, a new freewheel similar to your old one is dirt cheap.
To get your freewheel off, what you really need is a freewheel removal tool. You should be able to pick one up at your neighborhood bike store, or order. There are quite a number of different brands, parts.
Park FR-1, FR-1.2, FR-1.3 will work (the newer ones just got longer for some of the 11T freewheels, but will still work).

But, also several other brands and models.
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I've never seen a freewheel lock ring loosen on its own, but I reckon it could happen. It's likely that it was inadequately tightened during manufacture and loosened up during riding causing some loss of bearing balls. That would explain the play you are observing. I know you think you still have all the bearing balls; however be aware that there is a second ring of balls on the inboard side of the freewheel body. That lock ring is not an adjustment for play it is supposed to be tightened down fully. The adjustment is done with thin spacers under the ring. Freewheels typically do have some play but it should not be excessive.
I would handle this by completely disassembling the thing and assure that both inner and outer races had enough bearing balls. I'm guessing that this will resolve your excessive play. If you don't have the time, skill, or patience (most important) to do this, I'd recommend replacement.
Good luck - let us know how it works out.
I would handle this by completely disassembling the thing and assure that both inner and outer races had enough bearing balls. I'm guessing that this will resolve your excessive play. If you don't have the time, skill, or patience (most important) to do this, I'd recommend replacement.
Good luck - let us know how it works out.
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One other thought, what exactly were the symptoms before "adjusting" the freewheel?
Most freewheels will hop around a bit when coasting. It happens on just about all bikes with FREEWHEELS from the top of the line racing bikes from yesteryear to the cheapest bikes on the market today.
The hopping or wobbling really doesn't hurt anything, and can be ignored.
Of course one can have other issues with wheel bearings or a bent axle, but those will have different symptoms such as a whole wheel being able to be wiggled.
Most freewheels will hop around a bit when coasting. It happens on just about all bikes with FREEWHEELS from the top of the line racing bikes from yesteryear to the cheapest bikes on the market today.
The hopping or wobbling really doesn't hurt anything, and can be ignored.
Of course one can have other issues with wheel bearings or a bent axle, but those will have different symptoms such as a whole wheel being able to be wiggled.
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That isn't really a LOCK ring. It does nothing but hold the bearings and crap inside. Freewheels don't have a LOCK ring as mentioned previously. They simply get tighter the harder you push the pedals. I looked at my old one in the parts bin and the only way that freewheel could be loose on the hub if properly screwed on is if the bearings fell out, which as small as they are, it doesn't take much to lose them. After reading the OP's original post, I'm beginning to think he bent the axle, which is really easy to do on a bike with a freewheel because the axle support on the drive side is so far from the dropout. If that's the case, replacing the freewheel won't solve his problem and based on his honest assessment of his mechanical skills, that might be a problem in itself. He needs a friend or a shop that can help him. Good luck,
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The freewheels are assembled from parts, of course.
They come as a unit with a sort of freehub (non standardized). Some will have a lock ring to hold all the sprockets on. That Shimano one is built similar to the Shimano uniglide cassetes where the first sprocket is threaded and serves as the lock ring. All the rest of the sprockets likely are notched and slip on. The outer sprocket can be popped off with a pair of chain whips.
I don't think I've disasembled the bearings of one of those "freehubs". I assume the lockring + cone + bearings + pawls + springs + more bearigs and cones.
The pawls are likely dry. But, in the bike world, the best way to hold bearings in place during assembly is with a good bike grease.
If one didn't lose any parts, it might be interesting to rebuild that freewheel/freehub. But, for $15, it is also easy enough to just replace when worn out.
I'm curious how Shimano deals with the lockring/cone. If it is jost a single piece, or if there is a wayto adjust, then lock together.
They come as a unit with a sort of freehub (non standardized). Some will have a lock ring to hold all the sprockets on. That Shimano one is built similar to the Shimano uniglide cassetes where the first sprocket is threaded and serves as the lock ring. All the rest of the sprockets likely are notched and slip on. The outer sprocket can be popped off with a pair of chain whips.
I don't think I've disasembled the bearings of one of those "freehubs". I assume the lockring + cone + bearings + pawls + springs + more bearigs and cones.
The pawls are likely dry. But, in the bike world, the best way to hold bearings in place during assembly is with a good bike grease.
If one didn't lose any parts, it might be interesting to rebuild that freewheel/freehub. But, for $15, it is also easy enough to just replace when worn out.
I'm curious how Shimano deals with the lockring/cone. If it is jost a single piece, or if there is a wayto adjust, then lock together.
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It is possible it was defective. But, my guess is it wobbled when coasting like most freewheels do. And he chose to "fix it", when it actually wasn't broken, nor a problem.
With care, if nothing was lost, it should be able to be cleaned, greased, reassembled and locked back together.
However, if it is too much aggravation, replace, then deal with it when one has some patience.
#17
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All freewheels have a lockring which holds the cogset cluster to the body of the freewheel. The lockring is usually reverse threaded and is held in place by tightening with a hammer and punch. Its play is adjusted by a number a very thin spacers set at the factory. The way in which you can fully overhaul a freewheel is to remove the lockring to then access the two rings of bearings between the cogset and the freewheel body. It's the threaded freewheel body, not the cogset, that becomes tighter and tighter through pedaling force.
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